Use on-board RV generator to power home in a blackout

[Wolos68]

I own a 2018 Sunseeker 2500TS with a 4000 watt on-board generator. My house is wired to provide 240v shore power to my RV and it's also wired to accept power (240v) from a portable generator for use if my power company has a blackout. It would be much more convenient to use my RV generator instead of my portable generator if needed during a blackout. I'd like to know if anyone has modified their RV to enable it to supply 240v power to a house, observing all proper electrical codes (using correct plugs and isolating hose from grid when powered by local source (i.e., RV generator).

[SlowrideHD]

I would suspect that by the time you bought all the correct transfer switches, wire, and connections, that you could just buy a very good dedicated generator to power the essentials in the home much cheaper and less trouble.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Wolos68

I own a 2018 Sunseeker 2500TS with a 4000 watt on-board generator. My house is wired to provide 240v shore power to my RV and it's also wired to accept power (240v) from a portable generator for use if my power company has a blackout. It would be much more convenient to use my RV generator instead of my portable generator if needed during a blackout. I'd like to know if anyone has modified their RV to enable it to supply 240v power to a house, observing all proper electrical codes (using correct plugs and isolating hose from grid when powered by local source (i.e., RV generator).

Your RV genny is not 240Vac. It outputs a single phase 120 Vac.

[Wolos68]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Your RV genny is not 240Vac. It outputs a single phase 120 Vac.

Well, that puts a damper on my idea, but also explains why I haven't seen any discussions about this. Thanks for your quick reply.

[rk06382]

My plan is to use the 120vac from the RV to power the house furnace to keep my water pipes from freezing.

[BehindBars]

As already mentioned, the Sunseeker 4kW generator is single phase 120 VAC output. With modifications to the RV, you could back feed the generator power into your house panel, and power the sub circuits on half of your house power panel. If you arranged your breakers based on a need priority, you could keep some essential items powered during a blackout, but not everything, and not anything requiring 240 VAC.

You mentioned already having a 240 volt portable generator, so using that is the easiest solution. Too bad it doesn’t have a big fuel tank like the RV.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Wolos68

Well, that puts a damper on my idea, but also explains why I haven't seen any discussions about this. Thanks for your quick reply.

Shouldn't be a damper on your idea. Just add a transfer switch with circuit breakers for half a dozen 120 volt circuits included. The circuits you want to use in your house, some lights, outlets for TV, Microwave, refrigerator, etc are then wired to the transfer switch which is then wired to a single circuit breaker in you panel.

Power out, throw transfer switch and the "critical" circuits are now powered by your generator. Power back on, throw switch so the same circuits are no powered by your generator. Just make sure you have a heavy enough cord to carry the full output of the generator to the transfer switch without causing a large voltage drop.

$250 will get you a 6 circuit transfer switch that also includes meters that let you know if the house load is reaching max for generator so you can temporarily switch of a circuit (like if refrigerator/freezer is running at same time as microwave, etc).

Depending on individual's skills, it's even a DIY project with most states issuing a permit allowing homeowner to do work themselves and then inspected by state/county/city inspector.

Feeding the house back through an RV receptacle is NOT a good idea.

[Harkerr]

Running a couple of cords to critical items in the house might be easiest.

[Delco Bobby]

Originally Posted by rk06382

My plan is to use the 120vac from the RV to power the house furnace to keep my water pipes from freezing.

I have done this a half dozen times.

I run a heavy duty extension cord into the house to a special connection On my house heater. That connection disconnects the heater from the electrical grid. I also run a cord to my refrigerator. I Keep lights and other electric devices to a minimum.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Harkerr

Running a couple of cords to critical items in the house might be easiest.

This would be my recommendation as well. I have a small portable generator which I use during outages. I simply run one or two heavy guage extension cords into the house and then branch out as needed to run critical things (fridge, freezer, tv, lamps, etc.) I installed a amp & volt guage from Amazon on a 12 guage cord to monitor usage but that really isn't necessary if you just follow good electrical loading practices.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

This would be my recommendation as well. I have a small portable generator which I use during outages. I simply run one or two heavy guage extension cords into the house and then branch out as needed to run critical things (fridge, freezer, tv, lamps, etc.) I installed a amp & volt guage from Amazon on a 12 guage cord to monitor usage but that really isn't necessary if you just follow good electrical loading practices.

I've done the "cord" method for the last several power outages but doing that always requires running them through a slightly open patio door or a window that can't be completely closed.

The gap now becomes an entry point for noise, CO, and cold (most power outages occur during late Fall and Winter months here).

I have a hot tub that is no longer used and when I dispose of it the wiring will be re-purposed to feed a transfer switch.

Running cords works but is not as simple as it sounds. I'd like something simple as plug in generator, start, throw transfer switch, and return to watching TV or whatever. Something simple enough my Son or Daughter could do if I get to old to do it for myself.

[Blank]

The only thing I care about in an extended power outage is my freezer and refrigerator. I have an older Honda 1600 watt generator that sits right next to the freezer just for that reason. I can always run my fridge from the motor home if necessary.

If you are really worried about it, out in the boonies, do like my buddy and put in a 10KW Generac with ATS and load shedding. Cost him $3000.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Mike that is certainly a neat and clean setup and I'm sure your transfer switch will prevent the power line feedback. Are you going to power your entire breaker box or move selected circuits to a subpanel? The problem with powering the entire main panel, in my case, would be getting the family to understand there is not enough power to run everything.
You are right about the cord being a nuisance but fortunately my outages haven't been that frequent.
The downside of my method is my neighbor hears the generator running and wants to run an extension cord to his house "to just power the fridge." I suppose I need to get me one of those quiet inverter generators. Lol

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Wolos68

I own a 2018 Sunseeker 2500TS with a 4000 watt on-board generator. My house is wired to provide 240v shore power to my RV and it's also wired to accept power (240v) from a portable generator for use if my power company has a blackout. It would be much more convenient to use my RV generator instead of my portable generator if needed during a blackout. I'd like to know if anyone has modified their RV to enable it to supply 240v power to a house, observing all proper electrical codes (using correct plugs and isolating hose from grid when powered by local source (i.e., RV generator).

With 4000 Watts you have 33 amps, roughly enough to run your water heater, dryer, one, maybe two burners on your cooktop and possibly one Air Conditioner.

ONE AT A TIME, any two will overload it and trip the breaker.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

With 4000 Watts you have 33 amps, roughly enough to run your water heater, dryer, one, maybe two burners on your cooktop and possibly one Air Conditioner.

ONE AT A TIME, any two will overload it and trip the breaker.

It would be more practical to just use your camper as your emergency shelter.

[ckabrahamson]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

With 4000 Watts you have 33 amps, roughly enough to run your water heater, dryer, one, maybe two burners on your cooktop and possibly one Air Conditioner.

ONE AT A TIME, any two will overload it and trip the breaker.

residential electric water heaters, dryer, and central Air Conditioner compressor all require 240VAC. The RV genny output described is only 120vac just FYI

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

Mike that is certainly a neat and clean setup and I'm sure your transfer switch will prevent the power line feedback. Are you going to power your entire breaker box or move selected circuits to a subpanel? The problem with powering the entire main panel, in my case, would be getting the family to understand there is not enough power to run everything.
You are right about the cord being a nuisance but fortunately my outages haven't been that frequent.
The downside of my method is my neighbor hears the generator running and wants to run an extension cord to his house "to just power the fridge." I suppose I need to get me one of those quiet inverter generators. Lol

Not entire panel. Just 6 circuits. A couple lighting circuits (all LED lights now so they aren't really much draw), one for furnace, one for microwave, one for Fiberoptic Network Interface, and one for TV. I think the ONI and TV circuits are the same and if so I'll add one kitchen counter outlet so I can run a small induction hotplace (that can be set to as low as 600W or Keurig coffee maker.

Since the transfer switch is essentially a sub-panel I only need a single phase to power it. The only 240V item in my house is my kitchen range (dryer is gas) so it's easy for me to do it this way.

If we had more frequent power outages or rolling blackouts like some parts of the country I'd just install a standard backup generator and connect it to my natural gas system.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by ckabrahamson

residential electric water heaters, dryer, and central Air Conditioner compressor all require 240VAC. The RV genny output described is only 120vac just FYI

My mistake, dont' have an RV generator, and my portable is a 7500 watt on wheels that does have a 240 30 amp receptacle

All the more reason to use the RV as the Emergency Shelter

[BillyBass]

Im lucky I have a whole house generator that run on natural gas and a 1600 watt portable when I take camping when I have to .But I try to get full hook up when I go

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by ckabrahamson

residential electric water heaters, dryer, and central Air Conditioner compressor all require 240VAC. The RV genny output described is only 120vac just FYI

In my house I'm so glad I have a gas water heater and gas clothes dryer. Makes emergency power so much simpler.