Wanting to put in a battery cut off switch, but still use the solar for charging.

[Esteid]

I have a 2017 Salem Cruise Lite 263BHXL.

I have a small 100w solar panel with a built-in controller that I want to charge the battery's while we are away.

I also have trouble with the built-in reverse camera using the battery when it is in storage. So I want to put in a battery cut off switch just after the battery.

I see where a group of wires comes together under the front of the camper. But I called Forrest River for a wiring diagram and they wouldn't offer one.

Has anyone done this? Can you point me to what wires what up under the tongue where things come together at the battery?

Thank you

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Esteid

I have a 2017 Salem Cruise Lite 263BHXL.

I have a small 100w solar panel with a built-in controller that I want to charge the battery's while we are away.

I also have trouble with the built-in reverse camera using the battery when it is in storage. So I want to put in a battery cut off switch just after the battery.

I see where a group of wires comes together under the front of the camper. But I called Forrest River for a wiring diagram and they wouldn't offer one.

Has anyone done this? Can you point me to what wires what up under the tongue where things come together at the battery?

Thank you

Put it between the negative terminal and the chassis ground connection. S/B only one wire. You can get a switch fo $5.00, which is waterproof and rated for 300 amps

[Esteid]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

Put it between the negative terminal and the chassis ground connection. S/B only one wire. You can get a switch fo $5.00, which is waterproof and rated for 300 amps

Thanks, that is the simple way. But it ignores my interest in keeping the factory solar plug functioning.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Esteid

Thanks, that is the simple way. But it ignores my interest in keeping the factory solar plug functioning.

OK, missed that but i understand why you would want that. Although the batteries will just sit there for a long time and lose nothing. The only solution to that is to find the controller negative lead and rather than letting it connect to the chassis, extend it and put it directly on the battery negative post.

[Esteid]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

OK, missed that but i understand why you would want that. Although the batteries will just sit there for a long time and lose nothing. The only solution to that is to find the controller negative lead and rather than letting it connect to the chassis, extend it and put it directly on the battery negative post.

Ya, my thought process is.. We are connected at night and drain down the battery. Then we go out hiking in the afternoon but we want to disconnect the batteries. So turn off at the switch, but leave the panel out to bring up whatever we lost in the evening.

Maybe someone has done this and can help find that negative lead from the factory charge wiring.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Esteid

Ya, my thought process is.. We are connected at night and drain down the battery. Then we go out hiking in the afternoon but we want to disconnect the batteries. So turn off at the switch, but leave the panel out to bring up whatever we lost in the evening.

Maybe someone has done this and can help find that negative lead from the factory charge wiring.

Unfortunately I bet that they grounded it to the chassis somewhere near the solar plug. You could try to take the receptacle off or access the back of it.

[EddieL]

Why not connect the solar directly to the battery? (Assuming it is portable.) I have a fused SAE connector that I use mainly for the solar but can also connect my 12v air compressor or a small inverter. It works well for me.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by EddieL

Why not connect the solar directly to the battery? (Assuming it is portable.) I have a fused SAE connector that I use mainly for the solar but can also connect my 12v air compressor or a small inverter. It works well for me.

Now there is a pretty simple idea! A good one as well.

[babock]

You always want the controller on the battery side of the disconnect. There are a couple reasons for that.

1) With the disconnect off, the solar controller would be powering your RV with voltages ranging from fairly low to fairly high which is not what you want happening with electronics that may not like having strange low/high voltages.

2) Many solar controllers can get damaged without a battery load on them with the PV array still hooked to the controller.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Esteid

Ya, my thought process is.. We are connected at night and drain down the battery. Then we go out hiking in the afternoon but we want to disconnect the batteries. So turn off at the switch, but leave the panel out to bring up whatever we lost in the evening.

You do realize that if you turn off the disconnect switch, your refrigerator won't be working anymore.

[Esteid]

Originally Posted by EddieL

Why not connect the solar directly to the battery? (Assuming it is portable.) I have a fused SAE connector that I use mainly for the solar but can also connect my 12v air compressor or a small inverter. It works well for me.

Thanks, that is a pretty simple Idea. It as elegant as I was hoping, but might be the best choice in the end.

Originally Posted by babock

You always want the controller on the battery side of the disconnect. There are a couple reasons for that.

1) With the disconnect off, the solar controller would be powering your RV with voltages ranging from fairly low to fairly high which is not what you want happening with electronics that may not like having strange low/high voltages.

2) Many solar controllers can get damaged without a battery load on them with the PV array still hooked to the controller.

This is interesting the think about. Thank you for the advice.

Originally Posted by babock

You do realize that if you turn off the disconnect switch, your refrigerator won't be working anymore.

The fridge switches over to propane though doesn't it? I already learned that with the disconnect off the brakes won't work. So I won't be able to tow with the disconnect off. That was good to learn early.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Esteid

The fridge switches over to propane though doesn't it? I already learned that with the disconnect off the brakes won't work. So I won't be able to tow with the disconnect off. That was good to learn early.

It needs 12V still to operate.

As far as your brakes are concerned, the only part that may not work would be the break away.

I see no purpose to use the disconnect switch unless the trailer is being stored.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Esteid

...
The fridge switches over to propane though doesn't it? I already learned that with the disconnect off the brakes won't work. So I won't be able to tow with the disconnect off. That was good to learn early.

Babock is right. It switches to propane...if there is 12 volts present to run the controls. Otherwise it's dead!

[Esteid]

Originally Posted by babock

It needs 12V still to operate.

As far as your brakes are concerned, the only part that may not work would be the break away.

I see no purpose to use the disconnect switch unless the trailer is being stored.

Then I need to fix the battery draw, which currently is the dealer installed rear view camera using the prewire.

I doubt it is supposed to be drawing power all the time. So how should it work. And does anyone have a wiring diagram?

[babock]

Originally Posted by Esteid

Then I need to fix the battery draw, which currently is the dealer installed rear view camera using the prewire.

I doubt it is supposed to be drawing power all the time. So how should it work. And does anyone have a wiring diagram?

Many rear view cameras are wired to the clearance lights so they are only on when you are driving. Of course you have to drive with the headlights or parking lights on.

If you don't like that method, put in a switch.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Esteid

I doubt it is supposed to be drawing power all the time. So how should it work. And does anyone have a wiring diagram?

Doesn't exist unless someone who owns the same model, drew up their own diagrams.

[Perseid88]

Pull the fuse for the camera. That will stop the drain. Depending on what else is on that circuit, you may not need to replace it until it is time to travel.