WFCO modification - can i do this

[esty]

our travel trailer has a WFCO 8955...it has a 30 amp main breaker and 4 other 15 & 20 amp circuits for the various electrical in the trailer

we don't ever plan to move the trailer and have set it up to be somewhat permanent in its location and we will not use batteries

we added two 20 amp circuits with plans to use a 60 amp sub panel to power the existing WFCO power center and the additional 2 circuits we installed

in the WFCO box there is room for 2 additional breakers....my question is, assuming we use the correct size wire (#6) to the box can we replace the 30 amp, single pole main breaker with a 60 amp breaker and add the 2 new circuits to the WFCO box instead of adding a sub panel

will it be safe

this is a pic of the the WFCO Panel like the one in our trailer

[OldCoot]

I don't see why not, I would add a cooling fan on the converter tho'. Just don't change the factory 15/20 amp breakers, those are for the original factory wiring.

[esty]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I don't see why not, I would add a cooling fan on the converter tho'. Just don't change the factory 15/20 amp breakers, those are for the original factory wiring.

thanks....there is a working fan on the converter and nothing will change in the DC part of the system...we have no intention of changing any of the original wiring, circuits or breakers, everything will remain as originally installed in the trailer

we wired 2 additional 20 amp circuits, with each having only a single outlet to power a small water heater and an electric space heater

[Bama Rambler]

I don't know that I'd go to 60 amps on the main breaker. I'm not sure that the bus (stab bar) is capable of that much current. It might be designed for 50 amps but I wouldn't think it'd handle much more than that.

[DocRob]

Some years back I had a similar situation and elected to convert the input to 220 to keep the wiring size at a reasonable level. I used one side of the input do drive the old system and added the new circuits to the other side. One advantage of doing this (if you have 220 at the site) is that you can now run stuff like water heater, range, etc. if you want. In my case I was using electric heat because the local ordinances wouldn't allow for larger propane tanks.

[NCBBA11043]

Agree with the bus rating. The way things are made today, everything is designed / built the least expensive way. The bus may not be rated for that much current. If they aren't, and you draw more current then it's rated for, you'll have a fusible link!

[Iwannacamp]

Not an electrician...nor very smart... I would add a separate 60amp or your choice...make the OEM a sub-panel and add whatever breakers and wire you want to the new panel.

Could remove if ever wanted... no harm done. Could pole or wall mount or whatever you want.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

Not an electrician...nor very smart... I would add a separate 60amp or your choice...make the OEM a sub-panel and add whatever breakers and wire you want to the new panel.

Could remove if ever wanted... no harm done. Could pole or wall mount or whatever you want.

Excellent suggestion!

[esty]

thanks guys, that's what i wanted to know...the possibility that the bus bar wouldn't support the 60 amp breaker kills that plan...we have a 125 amp outdoor sub-panel that we bought to support the 2 circuits we added, we'll just stick with that plan

i believe with 60 amps we can wire a 30 amp plug or hard wire it in the sub-panel for the existing WFCO panel and the remaining 30 amps for the 2 new circuits

ideally we should have at least 70 amps but since we already have the #6 wire and 60 amp breaker, we'll live with the possibility of flipping a breaker

i doubt we'll have any problems with 60 amps...in our house we run a 1500 watt water heater for a mud room on a 15 amp breaker and use portable electric heaters 15 amp circuits all over the house...the only time we've ever had a breaker flip is if we mistakenly plugged in 2 heaters on the same 15 amp circuit

what do you guys think about the plan ?

[Iwannacamp]

Hmm. Correct. 15 amp circuit will not carry 2 1500 watt load. OHMs law prohibits that. If this is permanent and you are paying the electric...I would seek a more efficient heat source...10 amps x # of heaters... You can heat for less.


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[esty]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

Hmm. Correct. 15 amp circuit will not carry 2 1500 watt load. OHMs law prohibits that. If this is permanent and you are paying the electric...I would seek a more efficient heat source...10 amps x # of heaters... You can heat for less.

we have a more efficient heat source...i just didn't bring it up because it had nothing to do with the electrical question...there's a vent-less propane heater

the new 20 amp circuit not being used by the water heater can be used, if necessary for a space heater without the worry of kicking a breaker

[markb422]

Check to see if the rv panel has a bonded neutral bar.

[esty]

Originally Posted by markb422

Check to see if the rv panel has a bonded neutral bar.

i know the neutral bar and ground bar are not connected, they are separate...i believe that's what's meant by bonded, where the 2 are connected, they are not

how would a bonded neutral or not effect the auto operation of the t-stat ?

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by esty

i believe with 60 amps we can wire a 30 amp plug or hard wire it in the sub-panel for the existing WFCO panel and the remaining 30 amps for the 2 new circuits

ideally we should have at least 70 amps but since we already have the #6 wire and 60 amp breaker, we'll live with the possibility of flipping a breaker


what do you guys think about the plan ?

You should be ok on total load. It is rare that everything is turned on at the same time.