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Old 05-16-2021, 01:11 PM   #1
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Where to get 12V house battery connection?

I have a 2011 Georgetown and would like to have a few 12V outlets other than the dash for powering wall warts. Where's the best place to connect to a 12V source and to mount a receptacle? I'd like it to be after the battery disconnect switch so if something remains plugged in, it won't run the batteries down.

Thanks,
Jim.
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Old 05-17-2021, 08:41 AM   #2
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the best place to connect is at the distribution panel downstream of a fuse on one of the 12V circuits.
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Old 05-17-2021, 12:38 PM   #3
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the best place to connect is at the distribution panel downstream of a fuse on one of the 12V circuits.
There is often an unused fuse position in the power distribution center's 12 volt section.

Mine had two down at the bottom. All that's needed is to connect wire and insert appropriate sized fuse for wire used. Negative wire can be attached to nearest frame ground point if desired.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:49 PM   #4
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This is your GT378 battery control center located with the coach batteries. There are 3 studs on the right hand side. The one closest to the lid at the top is the battery disconnect feed. The battery disconnect will remove battery power from this stud when batteries are disconnected but will allow shore power to feed the stud when connected. With all power removed (batteries disconnected/no shore power) there is no voltage at the stud. Don't know how convenient this would be for your application with an inline fuse. Incidentally, if your 02/LP detector is still powered with coach batteries disconnected (no shore power) relocate from coach batteries to this stud to remove it as a parasitic load with batteries disconnected. Just one way.
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Old 05-17-2021, 03:05 PM   #5
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This is your GT378 battery control center located with the coach batteries. There are 3 studs on the right hand side. The one closest to the lid at the top is the battery disconnect feed. The battery disconnect will remove battery power from this stud when batteries are disconnected but will allow shore power to feed the stud when connected. With all power removed (batteries disconnected/no shore power) there is no voltage at the stud. Don't know how convenient this would be for your application with an inline fuse. Incidentally, if your 02/LP detector is still powered with coach batteries disconnected (no shore power) relocate from coach batteries to this stud to remove it as a parasitic load with batteries disconnected. Just one way.
Thanks, this helps a bit. It may be just what I need. Where is this device located? In my minimal exploration, I haven't seen it. Fortunately someone has taken care of the LP detector drain so it goes off when I switch the battery disconnect off.

Jim
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Old 05-18-2021, 02:14 PM   #6
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As an old former Radio Shack employee, your mention of 'wall warts" brings to mind 117 AC devices. As to 12 Volt cigarette lighter plugs, you should be able to find 12V unswitched wires hidden all over the RV.
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Old 05-19-2021, 08:27 AM   #7
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I faced the same issue in my 2011 Georgetown. My two part solution was to first replace all of the interior lights with LED panels. The ones I purchased blow out if run on voltages over 12V so I added a DC-DC buck converter set to 11V to each fixture. These inexpensive converters fit nicely into the fixture's pocket between the two bulbs where the fixture's switch is located. This significantly decreased the current draw on the lighting circuit fuses making additional power available for a small inverter.



I purchased one of the automobile 100W cigarette lighter inverters, a triple wide electrical box and a single 120V outlet. The box was installed in the dining table bench seat that faces the front of the coach. Under that seat are large protective covers that cover both AC and DC wiring for the dining slide. I removed these and replaced them with much smaller box covers I built. While the wiring was exposed, I tapped into the DC lighting circuit for the slide to power the inverter. The large electrical box I used had enough front panel room to include an on/off switch for the inverter which kept it from drawing power when not in use. I also mounted the USB outlet from the inverter box and a PowerPole DC outlet in the electrical box I purchased. I could use that to charge phones and tablets or turn on the inverter and add additional USB wall warts to charge multiple devices. The DC outlet gave me DC power available at the table.



This inverter worked well and provided AC power to run my soldering iron or a sewing machine as necessary. Eventually my need for PSW (pure sine wave) AC power for medical equipment (not a CPAP) forced me to add a 1kw PSW inverter to the rig. When I installed that, I rewired the outlets to have the inverter power most of them. The GFCI and microwave outlets have no power when running on the inverter.


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Old 05-19-2021, 09:00 AM   #8
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Thanks, this helps a bit. It may be just what I need. Where is this device located? In my minimal exploration, I haven't seen it. Fortunately someone has taken care of the LP detector drain so it goes off when I switch the battery disconnect off.

Jim
I have a 2012 GT 378 and assumed a 2011 would be the same. The BCC is located with your house batteries (under the entry steps) on the side wall.
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Old 05-19-2021, 09:27 AM   #9
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I have a 2011 Georgetown and would like to have a few 12V outlets other than the dash for powering wall warts. Where's the best place to connect to a 12V source and to mount a receptacle? I'd like it to be after the battery disconnect switch so if something remains plugged in, it won't run the batteries down.

Thanks,
Jim.
A 12vdc outlet won't power a wall wart. Are you trying to eliminate wall warts? There are a lot of options for a 120vac adapter to 12vdc receptacle that can either be plugged in or hardwired incase it is too hard to find a 12vdc source..
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