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Old 08-12-2013, 07:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Chunkychuck View Post
Yes, the RV came with an adapter to take the 50 amp plug to a 30 amp plug.
You are good to go, just remember you are going to be severely power deprived in that configuration.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:16 PM   #22
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You are good to go, just remember you are going to be severely power deprived in that configuration.
I know. I just need something right now to be able to recharge my battery and run lights and water pump.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:17 PM   #23
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The genny does not decide weather 120 or 240 is put out. Its what we plug into it. If you plug a twist lock into that plug with only one of the hots tied to it it is 120 if you plug a twistlock into it, with both hots tied to it, its 240.
And even this is partially true. It is only 240 if you measure leg to leg. And 240 is only utilized if you plug in a 240 volt appliance. Otherwise its still 120 per leg and each leg can be used as 120.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:59 PM   #24
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Evidently I wasn't clear with my statement. The gen has not been modified. The electrician fabricated a cable with the house plug on one end and a plug that fit the gen on the other end.
Sorry my bad I went back and re-read your question you said it correctly I read it wrong.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
With that being said I had a qualified and competent generator expert rewire my gennie and he eliminated that 4 prong 120/240 oulet and put in a 30 amp rv receptical.
It has worked flawlessly for over a year now.

Turbs
I second that, qualified personal. Being a single sided single phase load the other half of the winding will run unloaded. Depending on how the generator regulates this may have to be taken into consideration.

The local Home Depot has these on clearance for $199.00

3500 watts with a 30 Amp RV Plug built in.




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Old 08-14-2013, 01:38 PM   #26
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Took some pictures when I hooked up this morning. There is a wire screw holder where it says "neutral bonded to frame" Should I be attaching something to it. There is also a 120 20a 3 prong twist lock to the left of the 4 prong 120/240 I am going into now. Would it be a better option? Thanks for all the help.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:39 PM   #27
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Took some pictures when I hooked up this morning. There is a wire screw holder where it says "neutral bonded to frame" Should I be attaching something to it. There is also a 120 20a 3 prong twist lock to the left of the 4 prong 120/240 I am going into now. Would it be a better option? Thanks for all the help.
Is this manual for your generator?

http://www.mitsubishi-generators.com...-5800-6700.pdf

Is that a 20 amp or 30amp 120 twistlock? You should have a switch on your panel somewhere to select 120 only or 120/240.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #28
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Is this manual for your generator?

http://www.mitsubishi-generators.com...-5800-6700.pdf

Is that a 20 amp or 30amp 120 twistlock? You should have a switch on your panel somewhere to select 120 only or 120/240.
That is the manual. Looking closer it is a 30 amp 120 twist lock. The gen does have a select switch for 120 or 120/240. I hadn't looked real close as the electrician had chosen to use the 20 amp 120/240 plug to supply the bypass box in the house. That kinda locked "MY" thinking into that would be the best for the RV as well. Another lesson in what applies in one situation doesn't necessarily work the best in another situation. Will be getting adapter as soon as practical.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:47 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Chunkychuck View Post
That is the manual. Looking closer it is a 30 amp 120 twist lock. The gen does have a select switch for 120 or 120/240. I hadn't looked real close as the electrician had chosen to use the 20 amp 120/240 plug to supply the bypass box in the house. That kinda locked "MY" thinking into that would be the best for the RV as well. Another lesson in what applies in one situation doesn't necessarily work the best in another situation. Will be getting adapter as soon as practical.
All that is required is a twist to RV adapter and you are good to go for 30 amps. Be safe, have it checked by an electrician if you are unsure .

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Old 08-15-2013, 04:38 PM   #30
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After reading this, I'm glad the generator I bought already had the 30amp RV outlet on it!
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:44 PM   #31
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After reading this, I'm glad the generator I bought already had the 30amp RV outlet on it!
May I ask what brand? I probably will purchase new in the near future but at least for now I can use my current generator. It was really quiet for the late 90's generators (70 dbs) but I guess is pretty loud compared to the new ones.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #32
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It was a Champion 3500/4000. Bought it from Home Depot online. Was around $450 deliverd to my home with free shipping. Had the 30amp RV receptical, the 30amp 4 prong twist lock plug, 2 110 outlets, elictric start, and the remote start key fob, so you can start it and shut it down from inside the camper.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:20 PM   #33
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We used it on our trip to FL this summer, when we pulled into a rest area to sleep. It ran the ac great, and used about a half tank of gas over about a 6 hour period.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:06 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Chunkychuck View Post
That is the manual. Looking closer it is a 30 amp 120 twist lock. The gen does have a select switch for 120 or 120/240. I hadn't looked real close as the electrician had chosen to use the 20 amp 120/240 plug to supply the bypass box in the house. That kinda locked "MY" thinking into that would be the best for the RV as well. Another lesson in what applies in one situation doesn't necessarily work the best in another situation. Will be getting adapter as soon as practical.
Yep getting the 30 amp 120 to rv plug is definitely the best bet as that will give you the full power of the generator. If I recall from the pic you posted about 27 amps or so continuous. Just set the switch to 120 only and plug in. If your generator is up to par you should be able to run the A/C in your rig as well, at least the main one if you have 2 of them. Cant run both on a 30 amp hook up.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #35
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Yep getting the 30 amp 120 to rv plug is definitely the best bet as that will give you the full power of the generator. If I recall from the pic you posted about 27 amps or so continuous. Just set the switch to 120 only and plug in. If your generator is up to par you should be able to run the A/C in your rig as well, at least the main one if you have 2 of them. Cant run both on a 30 amp hook up.
Only 1 AC. It has an auto-idle switch. I imagine probably ought to stay on full power if running air and can use auto-idle the rest of the time under average circumstances.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:50 PM   #36
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Only 1 AC. It has an auto-idle switch. I imagine probably ought to stay on full power if running air and can use auto-idle the rest of the time under average circumstances.
Would probably be best to leave on full speed when running the air, provides a more stable voltage. If it is at a low idle when the compressor kicks in there is a bit of a delay for everything to kick in for the genny to get up to speed to compensate for the large load being dropped on it. This creates a low voltage scenario that compressors and motors do not like. Will shorten the life of the electronics over time.
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