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Old 03-02-2015, 08:13 PM   #21
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You can still bypass the ems and carry on like nothing happened.
Unless your afraid of the park power still lol.

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Concur, but you also have to be a camper not afraid of the wonder of electricity!
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:14 PM   #22
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Why would there vacation be over with the surge guard?
was thinking (that's likely the problem), when the surge module blew on your hardwired Progressive Electrical Management System your done until you get it replaced? but without it everything is fried and its still game over...
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:28 PM   #23
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I have one of these in the Bay outlet all the time. Easy way to see the polarity and relatively inexpensive. I carry a 30 amp to 110 adaptor and can check park power prior to plugging in.


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Old 03-02-2015, 09:14 PM   #24
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I have one of these in the Bay outlet all the time. Easy way to see the polarity and relatively inexpensive. I carry a 30 amp to 110 adaptor and can check park power prior to plugging in.

Attachment 70577
I keep those items in the console of the truck and also use a plug-in volt meter so I can see what power levels look like. Most of the time, this is the first thing I do before I even back into a site.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:36 PM   #25
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Vacation wasn't over, but it certainly was curtailed some. Since the EMS was fried and we didn't want to fry the RV, we unplugged and "dry camped". Good thing we were at the fair and had plenty to do.
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:48 AM   #26
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Vacation wasn't over, but it certainly was curtailed some. Since the EMS was fried and we didn't want to fry the RV, we unplugged and "dry camped". Good thing we were at the fair and had plenty to do.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:52 AM   #27
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I have one of these in the Bay outlet all the time. Easy way to see the polarity and relatively inexpensive. I carry a 30 amp to 110 adaptor and can check park power prior to plugging in.

Attachment 70577

My understanding is that low voltage is a common problem with campgrounds, especially during very cold or very hot climates, and can fry electronics. Unless you plan on monitoring a volt meter regularly, I think I'd opt for the continuous protection of an EMS. Also no surge protection with the above gizmo. And unless you plan on staring at that thing, you might not be able to catch an issue in time. The people that bought my 30DBSS that lost ground connection and fried the power supply didn't have an issue when plugging in- something happened to the ground in one of the main junction boxes while they were plugged in. So, I guess it is better than nothing, but not anywhere near the level of protection you get from an EMS that is monitoring constantly and will automatically kill power if anything happens to compromise your rig.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:07 AM   #28
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My understanding is that low voltage is a common problem with campgrounds, especially during very cold or very hot climates, and can fry electronics. Unless you plan on monitoring a volt meter regularly, I think I'd opt for the continuous protection of an EMS. Also no surge protection with the above gizmo. And unless you plan on staring at that thing, you might not be able to catch an issue in time. The people that bought my 30DBSS that lost ground connection and fried the power supply didn't have an issue when plugging in- something happened to the ground in one of the main junction boxes while they were plugged in. So, I guess it is better than nothing, but not anywhere near the level of protection you get from an EMS that is monitoring constantly and will automatically kill power if anything happens to compromise your rig.
Well stated! Prevalence of rolling brownouts was the fundamental reason why I purchased my first EMS. They happen frequently in the hot, humid summer months in CGs around these parts. Like others, I carry a DMM and outlet tester as part of my fundamental toolset, buy they are snapshot devices... One thing you can be sure of, it only takes once to become an after the fact convert!
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:04 PM   #29
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:45 PM   #30
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Bun
Bun?
Are you sure?
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:19 PM   #31
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I have been looking at management systems for a while. Someone stated you can use a 50 amp on a 30 amp system by bypassing something. I was buying for the future and thinking 50 vs 30 for upgrades. Any suggestions?


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Old 03-03-2015, 11:22 PM   #32
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I have been looking at management systems for a while. Someone stated you can use a 50 amp on a 30 amp system by bypassing something. I was buying for the future and thinking 50 vs 30 for upgrades. Any suggestions?


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Not bypass, add a jumper. You can install an EMS-HW50C 50A to a 30A by placing a jumper between the L1 and L3 terminals.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:30 PM   #33
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Not bypass, add a jumper. You can install an EMS-HW50C 50A to a 30A by placing a jumper between the L1 and L3 terminals.
Members buy the (30A) then when they move to a (50A) they sell the (30) at a loss,skip the (30) and just buy the 50! Youroo!!
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:43 PM   #34
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Thanks guys. That's what I will prepare for.


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Old 03-04-2015, 08:25 AM   #35
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Bun
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Bun?
Are you sure?
My only guess is that's a "pocket post". (Like a pocket dial.) Sorry...
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:53 AM   #36
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My only guess is that's a "pocket post". (Like a pocket dial.) Sorry...
Ha! It's actually a word which makes it better than some posts I've seen (not here, of course!).
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:34 PM   #37
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What are ya'll talking about?


BUN?
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:40 PM   #38
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What are ya'll talking about?


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Old 03-04-2015, 05:25 PM   #39
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I wouldn't know about that!


How about a BOIC?
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:25 PM   #40
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No problem at all. Your power center is mounted in the island peninsula and there's room to the right side. Need to pull out the power center to install it as well as spend some time in awkward body contortions. Will need to use some flexible cable to make the bend out the "other side" of the HW50C and into your power center. I used Amcor marine cable because I have marine supplies every few miles around here... 3 feet was plenty. Installed one in 3029W for friends last October.

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I took a good looks at mine this evening and taking out the power center looks like the only option (like you mentioned). I was able to see the bird nest of wires through my bathroom vanity, but no way could you reach back there and do any work. To remove the power center did you just take out the 4 screws in the corners and could pull it out far enough to be out of the way to get behind it?
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