Wiring new shore power outlet at home

[SickPup404]

(I did search, but couldn't find anything useful... Probably because "shore power wiring" brought back so much!)

We are picking up a used 2017 Apex Nano 193BHS tonight. We are new to campers, so I'm not sure what needs "shore power" vs 12v.

We have a barn that we will be storing next to (doors aren't tall enough - dang!) and I will be wiring up an outlet for it when it's parked.

My question is what should I use? Walls are open in the barn and there's a 100 amp service to it. We could set up
- Standard 15A duplex receptacle
- 30A TT receptacle
- 50A TT receptacle

As far as usage, we would only ever be using power at home for the slide and maybe lights for prep before going camping, or clean up after coming home. We wouldn't be staying in it for any extended period - 10 year old son might want to try it a night or two, but that's about it.

Any recommendations? I was thinking of going the 30A TT route...

[Brother Les]

If your unit is a 30amp, install a 30. If your unit is a 50Amp, install a 50. Add a couple of 110v beside (or in) the 30/50 box. imo

[SickPup404]

Good call on the couple of 110's - great for drop lights outside, shop vac, etc.!

[wmtire]

Make sure whomever wires the NEMA TT-30 outlet, they know it 120 volts only.

We have a PDF file we keep at the top of the electrical FAQ subsection, that shows how to properly install this outlet.

If they mistakingly wire it, as many do, for 240 volts...you are not going to be happy with the damage to your RV.

[hobienick]

Unless you really want to use 30A while in storage a couple 15A will be fine. I use those with no issues when at home. I do not run my A/C. Everything else is fine.

[SickPup404]

Thanks for all the tips! I have the PDF printed already! LOL!

[wmtire]

This thread may help as it has a link to the file I was describing. It may also help with your other questions too

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html

[TheWolfPaq82]

30A will give you the ability to run AC....at least one of them, if necessary. Our TT was always plugged into our 30A anytime is was in the driveway.

[5picker]

IMHO... Wire up an outlet that MATCHES your R/V.

You are going to find that even though you might 'think' you won't want to use the R/V for anything more than clean-up or not staying in it, you just never know.

If you have a 100a service available then my suggestion is wire up (assuming it is a 30a shore power cord on your R/V) a 30a R/V outlet along with the 15a household type mentioned, right next to it.

I recently wired in a couple more 30a R/V outlets and each one cost about $30 to do.
The outlets can be had on eBay for $10 and the short length of wire and breaker was another $15. I put them in a NM box with a rainproof cover for another $5. A 15a household outlet right next to the 30a R/V would cost a few dollars less than the 30a but a nice addition to the 30a.

No adapters are needed then and you'd have full power to your R/V for whatever reason might arise.

Again... BE SURE if you have someone else do it, they understand a 30a R/V outlet is 120v...NOT 240v!

As for what needs 12v power vs what needs battery power... in a nut shell...
Things like the A/C, the television, toasters, hairdryers, microwave and about anything you'd typically plug into a household outlet need 120v.

The refrigerator likely can operate on 120v OR propane.
Same with the water heater.

Interior/exterior lighting and the controls for the LP side of the refrigerator and water heater use 12v supplied by the battery(ies) and the battery is charged/recharged with the built in CONverter using 120v when plugged in.

You are also going to want to learn about a 12v disconnect (cut-off) switch to keep the battery(ies) from going dead when not plugged into shore power. Parasitic drains such as radio, clocks, etc. will drain a battery dead in days if not disconnected.

[SickPup404]

Awesome info all! I'm making my project shopping list already!

I think we got good deal. Prior owners were getting out of camping (sons are getting older, etc.) and they are including everything camper related: WDH w/ sway control, hitch lock, black water tote accessories, those yellow plastic leveling blocks, cordless drill/batteries/charger for stabilizers, etc.

Very clean, and no water (or other) damage we could find. Going to hit it with a good wash/wax this weekend and check it over for caulk needs.

[edit]
Based on the tire thread here, we're probably going to get a new set of Goodyear or Carlisle (including spare) too.
[/edit]

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by SickPup404

Awesome info all! I'm making my project shopping list already!

I think we got good deal. Prior owners were getting out of camping (sons are getting older, etc.) and they are including everything camper related: WDH w/ sway control, hitch lock, black water tote accessories, those yellow plastic leveling blocks, cordless drill/batteries/charger for stabilizers, etc.

Very clean, and no water (or other) damage we could find. Going to hit it with a good wash/wax this weekend and check it over for caulk needs.

[edit]
Based on the tire thread here, we're probably going to get a new set of Goodyear or Carlisle (including spare) too.
[/edit]

Get some tireminders.... they will pay for themselves with the first 'flat' or 'overheating issue'.

[BuzzWolfAR]

I disagree. Without 30 or 50 amps, no Air-conditioning and/or microwave for when the child is there. I use my 50 to get ready for trips running air, hot water and fridge.

Originally Posted by hobienick

Unless you really want to use 30A while in storage a couple 15A will be fine. I use those with no issues when at home. I do not run my A/C. Everything else is fine.

[formerFR]

everyone will have their own view about what 'size' outlet you might want for when the camper is simply 'parked' on your property, but wiring a 15 amp or 20 amp or 30 amp is hardly any difference between them, other than the wire size and breaker size, which is all very easy to do. If you're going to be adding a breaker for this 'new' circuit anyway, make it a 30 amp, which cost the same as 15 or 20, and the wire size, 10/2, is hardly any noticeable difference either. The only 'main' difference is that the 30amp outlet is designed differently, only for 30amp campers - and you won't need any 'adapter' to use it, so the offset difference might be $0.

[RussPastuch]

You want to make sure you have enough power for the AC. Hot as you know what when you start packing.

[beanerwi]

My two cents. Go 50 amp with a reducer so if the camper grows you are ready. First camper turned into five for me with a 45 d/p needing the power.

[CedarCreekWoody]

If you are near your distribution subpanel consider installing one of these and you will have all options covered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI6T6O2..._jKVmFb653C3AD

[jimmoore13]

or....if your rig is 30 amps...

If you don't plan to run the AC, you can buy a 100' (or less) 12/3 extension cord, and plug into an existing outlet to feed the RV. A simple adapter will allow you to plug into a conventional duplex outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14101...7180591&sr=8-7

That is all the power that a typical 2000 watt inverter generator can supply, and that's what many people use when boondocking. Again, that's if you don't need to run the AC on your camper while parked at home.

I've been using this arrangement since I started camping 3 campers ago. 15 amps is plenty to run EVERYTHING except the AC on a rig that has a 30 amp connection.

If you have a 50 amp connection, or if you must run the AC, ignore what I said and install a proper circuit.
This thing will make your day: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Drop a 50 amp breaker in your barn's subpanel to feed this guy, and run the wire (#6 copper or #4 aluminum) to this box. You might need conduit for a 50 amp, 240 volt circuit depending on your codes. That's it, that's all.

[Macrosill]

I would run the proper cabling for 50a 220v but install a 30a 120v breaker and receptacle. This way when you upgrade your trailer you don't have to do it twice. Just change the breaker and receptacle. Unless the wiring run is short and easy.

[The Evil Twin]

I’d have to agree with those that said go 50a 240v if you are going to do it. You may end up going bigger in the future. You could install a smaller breaker, but breakers protect the wiring. Not the camper. Unless you put a 30a receptacle in of course. Although, you should have a 50-30a dogbone anyway. I have been places where all that was left was a 50a service. Regardless, if you are going to do it then go with service that will power your TT completely. Don’t bother with a 15a. My 2 pennies.
Oh, and as someone pointed out above- add a duplex 15 outlet out there too. For air compressor, vacuum, pressure washer, whatever.

[caper]

I would go with the 30 amp service. A 50 amp service would use all 100 amps going to the barn. Plus it is not a 50 amp 240 volt plug but two 50 amp 120 volt lines supplied to the outlet.