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Old 03-16-2016, 03:19 PM   #21
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SUCCESS !!!!
Thank you all so much for your help.
I've gotten a lot of great info from these boards, but this is the first time I submitted a question... and WOW... what a great response from everyone.

This is how it played out:
I ran a temporary ground wire (about 25 feet) from the dinette table O/H light fixture... easiest thing to get to and wired it per your diagram.... BINGO... worked like a charm.
Next, I was lucky enough to have a 110 outlet (in the rear bath) almost right across from the light switch, and the wall is thick enough so I could fish a wire from the ground in the 110 outlet to the remote controller.

I also put the switch back in the line and it works just like you said...
Put everything back together and you can't tell I even did anything... no visible wires or anything.

Thanks again so much... you made my day.

Ed
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:29 PM   #22
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Wonderful Ed.
Enjoy!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:34 PM   #23
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5picker read your post, based on the remote your explanation is spot on and the the safest way to have the remote wired. If the switch was wired in before the remote, if the switch was in the off position the remote would not function as it would not have power and vice versa for the remote.

Think I'm going to get one of these for our exterior lights, we always stay out longer then expected, it would be nice to turn them on from the TV when we arrive back at the RV.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:58 AM   #24
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The way I'm reading your initial schematic, you have two wires that should be in opposite positions. The Red 12 volt in should go to the switch. The White wire should go to the fixture. You are going "IN" through the switch and "OUT" to the fixture.

I recently wired remote switches to residential ceiling fans to gain lighting. The remote switch had to be wired as described above. Your application is the same principle with different voltage.
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