ZAMP Solar

[GeoCamper78]

Hi Everyone

I really hope someone can help me out. I have a 2015 Coachmen Clipper 17BH, which came wired up with a ZAMP solar connector on it's sidewall. I've googled several websites and forums and the one thing that I am looking for I can not find answer to. Here's what I'm hoping someone has an answer to.

1. Where is that connector wired to?
2. Is there a built in ZAMP Solar Charge connector already? If yes, then where would that be hidden?
3. I've read that it is a PWM compliant, is that correct?
4. Can you run a MPPT charge connector through the sidewall ZAMP port?

Thanks,
George

[Flybob]

The Zamp solar ready port is essentially a marketing gimmick. The connector on the side of the TT is usually connected to the battery. There is no controller. Most of the Zamp panels have a built in controller. If you are not a heavy 12V user, this system may work. If you are going to need a lot of 12V capability, you will need to run heavier wire to the connector and add a good controller between the connector and the battery bank. One caution, ZAMP uses a non standard polarity configuration on its connectors. Not hard to correct, but you need to be aware. I recommend camping a time or two and determining your 12V recharge requirements before spending any money on solar.

[67L48]

Forest River should publish a flyer with Flybob's paragraph above and include it in the new RV paperwork.

[Flybob]

Here is a relatively inexpensive way to measure your 12V DC usage and also determine which of your devices is the biggest user. Lots of similar ones also available.



https://www.amazon.com/RC-Electronic...ateway&sr=8-82

[kfergiez]

I wrote about this a couple months ago. It says "solar on the side" but it applies to Zamp as well.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...qs-181906.html

[TitanMike]

The Zamp solar connector that came with my trailer was a simple SAE 2-conductor connector. You can buy a matching plug from most any auto parts store. Also can purchase adapters for other commonly used "Solar Suitcases" from Amazon.


I merely purchased a matching plug for my solar pre-wire connector. Since the trailer comes with NO controller installed I purchased a Victron 75/15 MPPT Smart Solar Controller and merely "spliced" it into the wires Forest River ran from the solar port to the battery (via the shutoff switch under the tongue).

I wired the panels in my Solar Suitcase in series and connected to the Zamp port with the SAE connector I purchased. Just make sure to connect + from the panels to the correct side of the connector.

FWIW, with the Victron MPPT controller, if you get the polarity wrong from the solar panels the controller will just sit there and get warm. Won't charge or destroy itself, just reverse wires and watch it start to charge the batteries.


By building my own setup from an inexpensive suitcase unit from Amazon (Komaes), using the Victron MPPT controller, and building my own extension cord from some #10 conductor SO cord I have under $400 invested. Monocrystaline panels, and MPPT controller for that amount rather than a ZAMP suitcase using a PWM controller for over twice that or a Renogy suitcase, again with a PWM controller for $200 more.

[fullmoseycampers]

The Zamp connector is a non-standard and reverse SAE.


IMHO, Zamp deliberately reversed the polarity of their connectors to create FUD(Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt). What other reason would there to be to account for creating a connection with a bare metal positive(hot) connector to the battery?


I watched both Zamp and Go Power unboxing/install videos. Both vendors supply a patch cord that creates a reversed non-SAE 2-pin connector simply for the purpose of forcing compliance to the reversed Zamp connector.



Take out both of those contrived reverses and you have a regular 2-pin SAE connection on both ends.



HTH;
John

[Leever2000]

I have the same camper as GeoCamper78 and have been wondering about some of the same things. I have a separate solar panel and controller (Not ZAMP)and battery that works fine for lights, fans etc.. but my question has to do with hooking the two systems together?
a). Is there a problem with using a generator to charge and
the solar panels at the same time? Do I have to disconnect one
while using the other to charge?
b) the other question has to do with the ZAMP connector on the side
of the camper. Can I use this connector to hook systems up in
parallel. Thought I read that the connector is reversed?
Thanks,
David

[Hclarkx]

Originally Posted by Leever2000

I have the same camper as GeoCamper78 and have been wondering about some of the same things. I have a separate solar panel and controller (Not ZAMP)and battery that works fine for lights, fans etc.. but my question has to do with hooking the two systems together?
a). Is there a problem with using a generator to charge and
the solar panels at the same time? Do I have to disconnect one
while using the other to charge?
b) the other question has to do with the ZAMP connector on the side
of the camper. Can I use this connector to hook systems up in
parallel. Thought I read that the connector is reversed?
Thanks,
David

a) Yes. you can use as many sources as you wish. I've used three at one time .........

200W solar doing almost nothing,

Honda 2000 generator 12V outlet (8 amp), and

my built-in converter (rated 35a but rarely did more than 10 amp) powered by the same generator at 120V at the same time as 12V out.


b) Yes. As you are aware, polarity is important and with Zamp it's up to you to keep it right.

[Leever2000]

Hclarkx - thanks for the response - I will hook up the 2 batteries in parallel with no worries now. And will use the ZAMP connection to hook the 2 batteries up together?

[Hclarkx]

Originally Posted by Leever2000

Hclarkx - thanks for the response - I will hook up the 2 batteries in parallel with no worries now. And will use the ZAMP connection to hook the 2 batteries up together?

Use the Zamp connector and its associated wires ONLY to tie-in a modest solar panel system (100 Watts or less). If your Zamp wires are like mine, they are good for 5 to 10 amps, no more.

Place the two batteries adjacent to each other and wire them in parallel with #10 or larger copper wire. #10 if you will run only lights and other small loads such as slide motors ...... and will charge at no more than 30 amps total. Larger is essential if you will power an inverter or charge above 30 amps.

[Charva]

Originally Posted by fullmoseycampers

The Zamp connector is a non-standard and reverse SAE.


IMHO, Zamp deliberately reversed the polarity of their connectors to create FUD(Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt). What other reason would there to be to account for creating a connection with a bare metal positive(hot) connector to the battery?


I watched both Zamp and Go Power unboxing/install videos. Both vendors supply a patch cord that creates a reversed non-SAE 2-pin connector simply for the purpose of forcing compliance to the reversed Zamp connector.



Take out both of those contrived reverses and you have a regular 2-pin SAE connection on both ends.



HTH;
John

Just purchased an a122BHESP with the SAE solar hookup port under the tongue by the battery. It IS NOT reverse polarity as so many posts mention. Not sure when the change was made, but I would test it with a meter before hooking up any panels or controllers.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Charva

Just purchased an a122BHESP with the SAE solar hookup port under the tongue by the battery. It IS NOT reverse polarity as so many posts mention. Not sure when the change was made, but I would test it with a meter before hooking up any panels or controllers.

Is it designated as a "ZAMP" solar connection?

There have been reports of other connections for solar connections that just say 'Solar Ready" or "Wired for Solar" and are standard SAE but they don't have the Zamp branding.

[Charva]

It’s “solar on the side”, not Zamp

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Charva

Just purchased an a122BHESP with the SAE solar hookup port under the tongue by the battery. It IS NOT reverse polarity as so many posts mention. Not sure when the change was made, but I would test it with a meter before hooking up any panels or controllers.

And do it regardless of whether the label on the port and the brand of panels match.

Good news is that if the polarity is reversed most likely the worst that will happen is the fuse on the controller will blow.

On my setup with a Victron controller, reversed panel polarity will just make the controller hot and no charge to the battery. Victron clearly states this in their manual.

[karlrmac]

Thanks for all the information. Can you tell me how to test the polarity of my zamp port in my 2018 2909WS?
I want to plug a solar panel there and then have the controller after that plug, but before the battery. Will that work for a trickle charge setup? I got a 20W panel and a little 20 amp controller.

[IsleDog]

Originally Posted by karlrmac

Thanks for all the information. Can you tell me how to test the polarity of my zamp port in my 2018 2909WS?
I want to plug a solar panel there and then have the controller after that plug, but before the battery. Will that work for a trickle charge setup? I got a 20W panel and a little 20 amp controller.

you are going to need a multimeter that can measure DC voltage. most of them will show the voltage as either positive or negative. your meter should have a red and black lead attached. if you touch the red and black leads to the connector and your voltage is negative, switch the leads around and re-test, it should not have a negative symbol anymore. this is your polarity. red is + and black is - (this refers to the leads on the meter only). most of the ZAMP connectors are wired "backwards" from what most of us consider normal.

the video below will walk you through the above steps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=xoUHbf_bRxw

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by IsleDog

you are going to need a multimeter that can measure DC voltage. most of them will show the voltage as either positive or negative. your meter should have a red and black lead attached. if you touch the red and black leads to the connector and your voltage is negative, switch the leads around and re-test, it should not have a negative symbol anymore. this is your polarity. red is + and black is - (this refers to the leads on the meter only). most of the ZAMP connectors are wired "backwards" from what most of us consider normal.



the video below will walk you through the above steps.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=xoUHbf_bRxw

Thank you much!

[karlrmac]

I got a setup installed and thanks to everyone here for information. I created a new discussion that include pics of anyone is interested.