2011 forest river shockwave toyhauler frame repair

[11Shocker]

Hey all, i have a toyhauler that i purchased brand new in 2011. this may tell you how often i take this thing out camping.. After 10 years and not to many trips on the trailer i had my original tires finally replaced because weather damage. with the new tires on i also went through and inspected the brakes, yep- still have plenty of pad left on the brakes

As I'm going to reinstall the drums I find spots in in my frame where its cracked and has stress marks. I reached out to forest River and Lippert but because of the age of the trailer i was offered no help. I contacted my insurance that offered to cover the repairs which is only welding back up the cracks which is awesome but no repair place will take the responsibility to just re welding the cracks. After a couple trips around the town, estimates were coming in between 2800- 3500 bucks to repair and strengthen the frame to ensure this wouldn't reoccur.


Here are some pictures of the frame damage

[11Shocker]

I wasn't about to pay a shop 3000.00 in labor and 350 bucks in materials to fix something i can do. After looking around online for pictures of how this can be repaired and not finding anything i figured i would post up pictures of what i did. Hopefully this will help some of you on your own repairs in the future.


After prepping the trailer, grinding, and cleaning and repairing the existing cracks it was time to add some strength!

Boxed the frame under the trailer using 2 x 2 boxed steel. the 2 x 2 goes 8" past the front the the front leaf spring hanger and also 8" behind the rear hanger.

Welded the box 2x2 to the all the inner leaf hangers and made triangular gussets to the bottom on the existing frame.

Added 2x2 cross brace which is welded between the 2 front leaf hangers and meets up to the other 2 x 2 that was added.

Added the same cross brace to connect the rear leaf's.

Cut the flat steel into 4"sections to plate and reinforce the side of the frame. These were all stitch welded in place.

Used steel flat bar to strengthen the bottom of the frame welding it at an angel to the new flat plate.

Added support between the leaf hangers to stiffen them up.

All said and done, it was $260.00 in 3/16 metal plate, flat bar, and 2 x 2 boxed steel. Buddy and I having some beers and hanging out all day - priceless.

[11Shocker]

ready to rock and roll again!

update: took it to the local mountains since then, rides better than before with much less sway.

[rsdata]

Good deal you had the skills to do this work yourself. And thanks for sharing the details. I'm sure you did a better and more thorough job than a shop would have.

Have you had a chance to look at the roof? after 10-11 years that might need some TLC also.

[11Shocker]

thanks RS, yes i inspected the roof recently and it looks good. your right though, I may add some new silicone around the edges, vents, and so one soon just to be cautious.

[CGK]

Nice work! Assuming you have a rubber roof, you may want to use something like Dicor self-leveling lap sealant on the roof instead of silicone.....general consensus is to avoid silicone on the roof. Happy camping!

[rsdata]

thanks RS, yes i inspected the roof recently and it looks good. your right though, I may add some new silicone around the edges, vents, and so one soon just to be cautious.

YA silicone on the roof is a NO-NO...

check out my post on roof preventive work using Eternabond tape...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...nce-90060.html

[tahoe1840]

11Shocker, awesome post! Thanks. I'm going through a similar issue with our 2015 Flaggstaff 5th wheel. But ours has a brake and crack in the main frame on the slide side and this is pushing out the channel steel placed by Lippert in the I Beam main frame for added strength. I called Lippert and explained to them that the issue is a structural failure caused by poor workmanship. The inserted channel steel into the main I Beam was poorly welded by a few stich welds along the top and bottom. I offered to send them detailed pictures and they did not want them. I'm going through similar problems finding someone to weld and fix it too. I see a fix and have a couple of buddies who are certified welders to help me if I can't find someone. If the price tag goes as high as yours did I'll do it myself. Forest River and Lippert should be ashamed of themselves for doing such shoddy work. Thanks for the pictures they gave me even more ideas!!

[pdqparalegal1]

I don't know who was counting the beans when it was decided to put a cheap, thin wall I beam frame under a TT with the way it moves going down the road.
I have a 2013 24' about 6000lb SOB and thought it was good, no major problems. After last trip I noticed axle was skewed. The inspection revealed hanger broken away from frame and several cracks. Mobile welder came to home on Sunday and managed to put it back together. Last trip it seems ok. Need to inspect again.
If I was younger and in better health I would take the cover from bottom of camper, box the frame for at least two feet on either side of spring hangers, weld all new hangers to boxed frame, cross brace between all hangers. There was more damage but main failure was welds between hangers and bottom of I Beam held----broke off bottom flange of I beam from rocking back and forth, metal fatigue.

[ACE110]

11Shocker, with all the work you have done, I definitely would have those axles checker & aligned if required.

Without any rework, a lot of axles are out of alignment. A few hundred $$ now could save a lot of tire issues later.

[mnoland30]

Wow! Makes we wish I were a welder. Nice work.

I take my utility trailer off road, and after breaking an axle spindle, I got a heavier axle and beefed up the springs and reinforced the tongue. I once saw a nice boat trailer on the side of a washboard road with a broken tongue.