Are 'Made in China' tires safe?

[BandJCarm]

Of course the Chinese are trying to kill you. Ain't no Kumbaya on this planet.

Some Chinese tires suck. Some are pretty danged good. Mine are working fine, and have for many miles.

[Iwannacamp]

Better/heavier tires cost more. I am reasonably lucky I guess. I have 4@2540 with a gross of less than 10k less pin weight. All advertised info.... but assuming correct then I have about 20% cushion. This is the only reason I still have the factory tires.

[TitanMike]

A couple of things I'd like to toss into the discussion:

First, all tire companies have a failure rate, even the best of the best. As long as that failure rate falls into an acceptable range, usually down in the 1-2% range it's considered normal.

When these failure rates climb up into higher percentages it gathers the attention of NHTSA and recalls are issued.

There was a fairly visible recall of Chinese made tires, both trailer and motor vehicle types, not too long ago that got the attention of most Chinese Tire Importers.

Currently there is a Class Action Lawsuit against TBC (the largest tire distributor in the nation other than a manufacturer) regarding the Power King Towmax tires which is one of their private brands. Still in progress.

Before I retired I saw Chinese tires that looked like they were hand made in a city dump. Molds weren't properly cleaned and all kinds of trash was molded into the tires.

Today's "Chinese Tires" have come a long way and most of the issues today come from people backing their trailers over curbs to park them on the end of their house (without using curb ramps), not paying attention to tire pressures, and driving too fast for what the tire was designed for.

If you don't exceed the rated speed (a Speed rating of "J" is max 62 mph, "L" is max 75 mph) and keep the tires properly inflated they have a chance of lasting a much longer time. Older trailer tires, manufactured prior to 2015 have no speed rating. Smart money suggests that they should be treated as if they have a speed rating of "J" and speeds kept down around 60 Mph. Either that or become another member of the "China Bomb Fan Club" or better yet, have to spend money on replacement tires so you can tow your trailer at speeds over the trailer tow max speeds that exist in every State (60-75 mph max or posted truck speeds where applicable).

Chinese manufacturers aren't making the same old tire they used to and failure rates haven't risen on the newer ones to a level that has gained NHTSA's attention.

[Wheels Down]

I am still running the factory originals on my 2016 Flagstaff. Have about 6,000 miles on them and no issues. The tread is good and I keep them covered and off ground in storage. Installed the TST 507 for a little insurance on an upcoming long trip. And I constantly have them in my mirror checks.
Good tip on the small rocks in the treads.
Thanks.
RMc

[Underthedog]

Another figure I neglected above is the axle rating. Our Roo 21ss (Dual axle) came with tires rates at 1760 (from memory so be kind) for a total of 3520. I thought that was fabulous since all four added up to more than the gvwr of 6109.

BUT

The axles are rated at 3K dumping me back in the same boat as everyone else where the hitch weight must be figured in to arrive at a legal total.

From my casual reading of the forums it seems it is usually the case that the tires weight rating is the limiting factor rather than the axle weight rating. Coming from the pop up world it was like I had won the weight rating lottery, only to find the ticket was fake.

[kcmusa]

I ran with the original 14 in load range c tires. 3500 lb axle, 1760 rating per tire = 7040 total. The GVWR on trailer is about 7900 lbs, so the rest on the tongue.
I did this for about 15K miles then went to load range D tires.
Now I have a load of 2040 times 4 = 8160 I feel much better, tires have a higher speed rating.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Underthedog

Another figure I neglected above is the axle rating. Our Roo 21ss (Dual axle) came with tires rates at 1760 (from memory so be kind) for a total of 3520. I thought that was fabulous since all four added up to more than the gvwr of 6109.

BUT

The axles are rated at 3K dumping me back in the same boat as everyone else where the hitch weight must be figured in to arrive at a legal total.

From my casual reading of the forums it seems it is usually the case that the tires weight rating is the limiting factor rather than the axle weight rating. Coming from the pop up world it was like I had won the weight rating lottery, only to find the ticket was fake.

The ultimate limiting factor for all vehicles is their GVWR listed on the vehicle's federal certification label.

Tires with excess load capacity are most desirable because they will provide much needed load capacity reserves.

Read your owner's manual. It will say, in the manufacturer's words, the same thing.

[LynnGlaze13]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Can't see a Speed Rating on this tire so I'd assume it has the lower speed rating of 65 MPH ("U") Also no load rating so this makes it an older tire.

Keep the air pressure up, keep the speed under 65, and look for signs of immanent failure (cracks, bubbles, strange tread alignment when you rotate the tire, etc. Also a good idea to keep the rocks picked out of the tread. Crushed rock, when it gets stuck in the tread, can work the sharp edge into the tire and cause it to go flat with little warning.

Speed and load will be the big issues. It's a tire that's just barely up to the task and asking it to do more will lead to failure.

The 3rd photo shows a Speed Rating of "J" on it.

[tlparris]

I had two iChina Bombs disintegrate on me within two hours of each other. Not overloaded (verified by commercial scale right after), under 65mph., only 4500 miles.
They are so dangerous we pulled them all off and replaced with Goodyear Endurance (E load range). We've been 8000 miles to Alaska and back since, and no signs of problems yet. FR should consider ditching the offshore immations. Might prevent a catastrophe.

[jtesta1]

I had Hercules c tires with 5 years of travel. Noticed a crack in one sidewall, so I went to trailer king e tires . Only 6 months old about 3500 miles and seem to be doing a fine job.

[eye95]

Originally Posted by LynnGlaze13

The 3rd photo shows a Speed Rating of "J" on it.

Um...I'm reading an "L"...

[old40ford]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

Many people have "China Bombs" with no adverse effects. They use them for a few years, wear them out and replace them, never giving them a second thought. Those people rarely come on here and report "Everything is ok with my tires!"

Some people barely clear the dealership when their tires blow. Those people almost always come here and report how crappy the china tires are.

Before you work yourself up into a tizzy over Chinese tires, try to keep that in mind.

Tim

I have had Chinese tires on my 30ft enclosed car trailer for years, still look good, but, I am ready for new ones. Never had a problem with them and I have been on several long trips with heavy cars inside. I always check the air and inspect them before I leave and again every time I stop for gas.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

A couple of things I'd like to toss into the discussion:



First, all tire companies have a failure rate, even the best of the best. As long as that failure rate falls into an acceptable range, usually down in the 1-2% range it's considered normal.



When these failure rates climb up into higher percentages it gathers the attention of NHTSA and recalls are issued.



There was a fairly visible recall of Chinese made tires, both trailer and motor vehicle types, not too long ago that got the attention of most Chinese Tire Importers.



Currently there is a Class Action Lawsuit against TBC (the largest tire distributor in the nation other than a manufacturer) regarding the Power King Towmax tires which is one of their private brands. Still in progress.



Before I retired I saw Chinese tires that looked like they were hand made in a city dump. Molds weren't properly cleaned and all kinds of trash was molded into the tires.



Today's "Chinese Tires" have come a long way and most of the issues today come from people backing their trailers over curbs to park them on the end of their house (without using curb ramps), not paying attention to tire pressures, and driving too fast for what the tire was designed for.



If you don't exceed the rated speed (a Speed rating of "J" is max 62 mph, "L" is max 75 mph) and keep the tires properly inflated they have a chance of lasting a much longer time. Older trailer tires, manufactured prior to 2015 have no speed rating. Smart money suggests that they should be treated as if they have a speed rating of "J" and speeds kept down around 60 Mph. Either that or become another member of the "China Bomb Fan Club" or better yet, have to spend money on replacement tires so you can tow your trailer at speeds over the trailer tow max speeds that exist in every State (60-75 mph max or posted truck speeds where applicable).



Chinese manufacturers aren't making the same old tire they used to and failure rates haven't risen on the newer ones to a level that has gained NHTSA's attention.

Good point....as long as they are reported.

[karrun]

You and I have the same size tires. I just replaced my Constancy tires with Goodyear Endurance tires (Load D). I bought them tax free from Discount Tire Direct and had them shipped directly to a Discount Tire for install.
They had a $70 rebate for a set of 4, not sure if the deal is still on.

[wnelsonfl]

Single axle Trailers scare me.

[jimmoore13]

It depends...

The manufacturer MUST install "adequate" tires on your trailer. You don't include info about your RV - age, etc., but assuming your RV was purchased in or around February this year, then these should be "adequate" and new enough to have not aged out.

"Adequate" is more than enough load capacity for the rig. Inspect them regularly, keep them properly inflated (check EVERY trip), and stay within the speed range - or less.
If any tire leaks, get it fixed or swap it out with the spare. They should hold pressure, and if any tire doesn't, that's a recipe for disaster, because under-inflation leads to heat build up and tire failure. Allowing for pressure differences related to ambient air temp, my "Chinese Bombs" hold air perfectly...for months on end.

Stop regularly to check the tire temperature often...every hour or so. CAREFULLY touch each tire to see if one is significantly hotter than the other, or get one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-La...hermometer+gun for $15. Heat build up is the enemy.
Get a "baseline" temp when the tires are cold, and then allow for some heat buildup from driving, but all tire temps should be about equal. One standout is a warning of imminent failure.

If one of the tires is hot, cool it off completely. It's likely you'll discover it's under inflated. Top it off and keep an eye on it. If it heats up again, swap it out for the spare.

This is a great compressor to have onboard your TV: https://smile.amazon.com/Viair-93-VI...air+compressor
It seems to be the Goldilocks model - just right. Note that it connects directly to the battery...not a cigarette lighter...so it really puts out a lot of air.

Keep the tires out of the sun: https://smile.amazon.com/ADCO-Double...rv+tire+covers UV destroys tires.

Consider a TPMS. This will alert you to a pressure problem before it's too late. https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb...-keywords=tpms The good news is that it will work with these tires and your next set, too.

Advice varies, but many suggest that the life expectancy of an RV tire is about 4 or 5 years. Tread wear is not an indicator of tire condition...buy new tires after no more than 5 years. Many premium car/truck tires have a useful life of about 6 years, and some shops won't install a tire older than that (say for a summer/winter change-over).

I've had good luck with my OE tires...one flat from a puncture that's now on as a spare despite the fact that it does not leak. But I never exceed 60, I don't corner hard (loading up the tire on the outside of the curve), I seldom go more than about 80 to 100 miles one way, and I take good care of them.

P.S. This is not by the books, but consider... If you're driving long distances at "high" speeds, heat is the enemy. Heat comes from tire flexing. If the recommended tire pressure is 50 PSI, and if you plan to go a long distance at highway speeds, consider "over-inflating" the tires to, say, 60 PSI when cold. The harder tire will flex less and stay cooler at sustained "high" speeds. It will also resist cornering loads better...as weight transfers to the outside wheel in a turn.
The "wisdom" of this depends on two factors: The pressure rating of your wheel (should be 80 PSI or so, but check) and the maximum pressure allowed by the tire (will be printed on the sidewall, and it's probably also about 80 PSI or so). On a car, this can be a problem, because the center of the over-inflated tire will wear more quickly than the shoulder, but trailer tire tread almost never wears out before the tire is done for other reasons. For short hauls at lower speeds, go back to the recommended PSI.
My single-axle PUP has a GVWR close to 4000 pounds. About 400 of that is on the tongue. If you consider that 3600 pounds is a heavy load for one axle (equivalent to a 7200 pound pickup truck), you're asking a lot of your trailer tires.

Good maintenance practices and regular inspections will reveal flaws before they blow and rip out a wheel well. The IR thermometer and/or TPMS is a life-saver for long highway trips.

Like I said, it depends.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

Advice varies, but many suggest that the life expectancy of an RV tire is about 4 or 5 years. Tread wear is not an indicator of tire condition...buy new tires after no more than 5 years. Many premium car/truck tires have a useful life of about 6 years, and some shops won't install a tire older than that (say for a summer/winter change-over).

Dead on with the 4-5 years on RV tires. In the industry we used to say that RV tires (mostly trailer type) would rot before they wore out.

The latter, defining a premium car or truck tires life by age was something that popped up on the horizon about 15 years ago. It's been pretty much been "de-bunked" by not just the Industry but outside experts. Some tire stores are still using the old myth to promote sales but it's an unscrupulous sales practice. Passenger and Truck tires are a whole different animal when it comes to what they are constructed of and how they are tested.

With ANY tire you can have a failure at any time along it's tread life. Expose the tire to excessive heat during it's life (like in Phoenix, etc) and you may get a year or two. Use it in a more temperate climate (like the Pacific NW) and the tire will wear out long before failure, regardless of age.

I recall seeing on a tire sales site (perhaps Tire Rack) that age is not a good indicator of tire condition.

RV owners can do a lot to enhance the life of their tires, much of which was explained in the post I'm responding to.

Let's add one more. Get your trailer tires off the ground for long term (off season) storage. If you look at a lot of tires that come on Travel Trailers they do not include a steel belt like passenger and truck tires do. Most are made with Nylon Belts and the longer Nylon is "stretched" as it is when a vehicle sits on the tire, the bigger the "set" that it takes. It takes some time to work that "thump, thump, thump" out of the tires as you take that first trip. Manufacturers have been trying to get that out of tires since the time I first got into the Industry in the 60's. Pre-stretched Nylon made them better but not perfect. Not only will raising the tires off the ground (Jack stands under frame near axles) prevent tire issues, it will prevent actual "rot" from occuring when water, dirt, and tire tread, all sit in a "puddle".


Consider adding 4 tall jack stands to your winterization kit, along with the tire covers.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by LynnGlaze13

The 3rd photo shows a Speed Rating of "J" on it.

Look again, it's an L = 75 MPH. The only tires I know of that use a "J" = 62 MPH are European designed truck tires.

[pawatt]

Keep your speed under 65, keep proper inflation and don't overload and you will be unlikely to have problems. Been rving for over 45 years coast to coast and Canada to Mexico and never had a blow out. I shouldn't have said anything, my luck may run out.

[Svtyone]

More than two years old I would change them but if new justbkeep the pressure up and inspect for any signs of seperation