AXLE FAILURE! Questions and opinions please.

[KC Camper]

Hey everybody. This site has some great info and people, I'm calling on the axle/load pros here!

Our axle failed on our 2019 Hyperlite XLR 29HFS.

Luckily it was at low speeds during a turn on the roadside!! Great bad luck for once!

We found the leaf spring perch was welded on way too hot. It blew through the axle tube, the weld's bead was inside the axle tube itself. This beyond a doubt caused the failure.

Very frustrating, three sources of "road side assistance" could only offer a tow or flat tire replacement, lol. I replaced the axle myself, sourced from a local distributor.

My camper specs: 7641 dry - 9886 loaded - 1032 hitch.

Question # 1: Capacity?

It has 2x 4400 lb dexter axles...so 54lbs "over loaded".
9886(GVWR)-1032(hitch)=8854....max axle is 8800.
As a toy hauler it sees heavy weight OFTEN. From the factory it is so very very close the max limits. I confirmed with FR the build is correct.
Is this model shady or this standard camper construction practice?

Question # 2: Axle Missmatch OK?

For the repair I used a standard 6k Dexter axle, which has slightly larger hubs and drum breaks.
If we leave the 4400 on front and 6000 on the rear will it cause breaking issues or un-even break wear? In other words should we bite the bullet and replace the front axle as well to make them match???? Cost is about 900.00 self installed.

We don't camp a ton, but do some 300-600 mile trips 3-4 times a year.

Thanks for any help guys!!!

[TitanMike]

If tire sizes and brake drums are same diameter you shouldn't have any issues with braking.

You still have a remaining issue with the different axle ratings. Do you know how much weight will be on each?

BTW, increasing axle capacity isn't addressing any frame limitations. It's all interdependent, frame, axle, springs, and brakes. When you say it ofter is heavily loaded the "system" most likely is overloaded or has no safety margin.

[SeaDog]

Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. Remember not all the weight is carried by the axles some of the weight is on the tongue which explains why the Mfg cuts things close.

I don't think breaking will be an issue. how the load is distributed is something to consider are the tires the same size? You can run different size axles it is done all the time with rigs that have tag axles to carry some of the weight.

Myself given the way you load your rig I would replace the other axle so both are the same weight rating but thats just me. Remember changing the axles does not change your MGVW rating.

[phillyg]

QUOTE......My camper specs: 7641 dry - 9886 loaded - 1032 hitch......It has 2x 4400 lb dexter axles...so 54lbs "over loaded".
9886(GVWR)-1032(hitch)=8854....max axle is 8800.
As a toy hauler it sees heavy weight OFTEN. From the factory it is so very very close the max limits. I confirmed with FR the build is correct...... Axle Missmatch OK?......
QUOTE]

Assuming your numbers are taken off your yellow sticker, I don't see how FR could "legally" use 4400lbs axles on that unit. I know, its only 54lbs, but I think mfgr. GVWR is one thing that's well-regulated by the Govt. I think you should push harder with FR. OTOH, do you ever max out your weights? If not, the 4400lb axle failed because of a bad weld, not necessarily overloading, yes?

WRT the 6k axle, did you just bolt it to the same springs existing on the trailer? If so, your springs are still matched to the failed axle, so you didn't increase GVWR with the new axle, so no foul. If it was me (OCD), I'd change out the other axle just to be matched, but I don't think the mismatch is problematic.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by KC Camper

My camper specs: 7641 dry - 9886 loaded - 1032 hitch.

Out of curiosity, where is the 1032 TW coming from? The sticker on my trailer does not specify a TW. I only have: dry weight, GVWR, and max cargo. The online brochure for your trailer specifies a 1124 TW (link attached). Looking at the brochure for my trailer, it more clearly specifies that the TW is for a dry trailer. So, if FR is being consistent, then they are suggesting a TW of about 15% for your trailer. If you run with 15% and have the max load on the trailer, then FR is suggesting you run with a TW of 1482 lbs. This would have 8404 lbs on the axles. That would be about 400 lbs under the GAWR. My run of the math indicates that if you run 11% of your GVWR you would still be just under the GAWR. 9886 * .11 = 1087, 9886 - 1087 = 8798.

https://recreationalvehicles.info/20.../#lg=1&slide=6

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

Out of curiosity, where is the 1032 TW coming from? The sticker on my trailer does not specify a TW. I only have: dry weight, GVWR, and max cargo. The online brochure for your trailer specifies a 1124 TW (link attached). Looking at the brochure for my trailer, it more clearly specifies that the TW is for a dry trailer. So, if FR is being consistent, then they are suggesting a TW of about 15% for your trailer. If you run with 15% and have the max load on the trailer, then FR is suggesting you run with a TW of 1482 lbs. This would have 8404 lbs on the axles. That would be about 400 lbs under the GAWR. My run of the math indicates that if you run 11% of your GVWR you would still be just under the GAWR. 9886 * .11 = 1087, 9886 - 1087 = 8798.

https://recreationalvehicles.info/20.../#lg=1&slide=6

What he said ...

[KC Camper]

Thanks everyone for the replies, I appreciate it!

Still not sure about matching the axles.....the drums and hub ARE slightly bigger on the new axle but I reused my wheels.

I realize bigger axles won’t raise my GVWR, i just want to be able to load up 1.5-2k worth of cargo and go camping safely. :-). Croft Trailer had only a 3k or 6k class in stock. They had actually never heard of a 4400 axle before.

As far as my TW, I have NOT checked it on scales, my TW# was just a googled “spec”, your 1132 is probably more accurate. My DRY and GVWR where from the yellow door sticker. Another TW consideration is our layout, I don’t see our cargo adding much if any TW, we also use a equalizer hitch.

Either way it just threw me for a loop that FR cut things so close considering it’s made for hauling.

With this unit we could not load up toys AND the holding tanks and go somewhere boon docking confidently.

Thanks again for the reply’s every one, the best choice is probably to match the axles.

Also worth mentioning, Dexter axle has been GREAT so far with covering the failed unit.

[Tundra 2014]

If you have 2 different brake sizes, my concern would be the poterntial for 1 of the axels to lock-up prior to the other in wet weather or panic stop. The reason the manufactures get by w/ the axel weights is that part of the load is carried on the TV hitch or the 5 th. wheel pin. I freaked out on why my 8k TT had 2-3500 lb. axels at 1 first. I am probably over cautious and would use the trailer as you have it and change the other axel in the off season. As long as the springs are the same, it should not cause a load problem.

[mikeyk101]

After seeing this thread, you made me take a second look at my axle ratings. I have a 190RT toyhauler and it has a GVWR at 7595lbs. It has tandem axles that are rated at 3500lbs which would only be 7000lbs total. So it seems that this is pretty common.