Axle pinion nut won't come off. Help!!

[007matman]

Originally Posted by BeeBoB

You have an 11 yr old TT with AL-KO axles. Dexter bought AL-KO. My 2012 model year 2109S Mini-Lite has AL-KO axles that failed on one side. Dexter can replace with their axle remade to match AL-KO specs. However, I will have to get a 'complete' axle assy. as the bearings and brake hub that I have will not match the replacement Dexter Axle. Just so you know.

Oh my.. how much is that going to cost?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Oh my.. how much is that going to cost?

I've seen replacement Dexter axles complete with hubs and brakes for ~$500 plus shipping. Unless you can install yourself plan on tearing up a $1,000 bill.

[uhduh camping]

Unfortunately your torque wrench maybe toast as well. Most torque wrenches are really designed to tighten right hand threads. We constantly fight to keep the torque wrenches at work separated at work so they don't become damaged. Left hand threads require a special torque wrench. If it's a good quality wrench send it in to be calibrated. If not you now have a decent ratchet.

[Big-Foot]

The vast majority of the load is the carried by the inside bearing (which is larger for that reason)..
See if you can clean up that spindle with a fine file to get a new bearing to ride on it properly..
You may need to replace that axle, but you should be able to get back home with good bearings and a new seal..

[wanderer26]

My advise would be to invest in a good TPMS. (Tire pressure monitoring system) It will alert you if an overheat condition exists. It works if a tire or the axle overheats. I had that happen coming home from a Gettysburg rally last month. The star washer on my right rear axle broke and got jammed. It over heated to the point it scorched the drum and melted the brake magnet. I was able to pull over before any real damage was done. Had to replace the above mentioned parts at a cost of $350.00 including labor. Thats alot cheaper than it could have been had the TPMS not done its job. Well worth the investment.

[smittyboy]

If you have a propane torch, I would heat the nut to a dull red color, then try to remove the nut. If not get a piece of two inch diameter pipe about 3 to 4 feet long to use as a cheater bar.

[smittyboy]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Agree, clean up the threads but don't use emery cloth on journal surfaces. Instead use crocus cloth. It's meant exactly for this purpose, polishing, not grinding. Use new bearing to check for fit. Should be snug and smooth. If you see any nicks or burrs remove them with a small knife sharpening stone and only work that area.

Reassemble with freshly greased bearings, new seal, new nut, and cotter key.



Be sure and monitor hub temps (just feel at stops) regularly and when you return home disassemble and check for signs of the bearings spinning on the spindle. If that's happening you'll want to replace spindle/axle.

I've seen all kinds of tricks like using a center punch around the journal area of the spindle to tighten bearings, even greasing the inside of the bearings, degreasing the journal, and assembling with a thin layer of J-B weld on the journals. Idea is that the J-B will stick to journal, fill gap, and grease film on inside of bearing (where it sits on journal) will allow it to release. Usually not and it makes for very difficult future bearing packing.

I don't believe the spindle is replaceable by itself. If it's any condolence a replacement 3500 axle like yours (assuming 3500#) is just under $400 plus shipping. A lot less than consequences of a lost wheel.

You should highlight "freshly grease bearing".

My anal husband, decided to check out our bearing on our brand new, 2019 Cedar Creek Silverback fifth wheel. Only to find out that non of our bearing were greased and two had to be replaced. This was after putting over a 1,000 miles on the trailer. WHAT the F? We did pump grease into the zert. Why the heck didn't the axle people properly packed those bearing.

Needless to say, they are properly packed now.