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Old 06-12-2024, 09:36 AM   #1
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Axle rating vs fr sticker gvwr.

I was underneath my 2021 179dbk replacing tires like every spring as for some reason I always get cracked sidewalls from the fall to the spring.

Anyways, I noticed a sticker on my axle I had never seen before. It stated 4400lbs. Now according to my weights sticker, I have 4800lbs for the gross vehicle weight rating. My dry weight is supposed to be 3500lbs. So I should have 1300lbs cargo carrying capacity.

But according to the axle sticker I only have 900lbs. So what gives? Which sticker to follow?

I am aware of what to subtract from cargo carrying capacity. Including tank weights.

I am annoyed that the forest river sticker has potentially lied to me. Annoyed that I waited a 2 years because I was told this generation had a heavier axle weight over the previous year.
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Old 06-12-2024, 09:40 AM   #2
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And just realized they cheat by adding an additional 400lbs being transferred to the tongue weight therefore to the tow vehicle...

Thanks everyone.

Any thoughts why my tires get cracked sidewalls after every winter though?
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Old 06-12-2024, 09:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forsakentalon View Post
I was underneath my 2021 179dbk replacing tires like every spring as for some reason I always get cracked sidewalls from the fall to the spring.

Anyways, I noticed a sticker on my axle I had never seen before. It stated 4400lbs. Now according to my weights sticker, I have 4800lbs for the gross vehicle weight rating. My dry weight is supposed to be 3500lbs. So I should have 1300lbs cargo carrying capacity.

But according to the axle sticker I only have 900lbs. So what gives? Which sticker to follow?

I am aware of what to subtract from cargo carrying capacity. Including tank weights.

I am annoyed that the forest river sticker has potentially lied to me. Annoyed that I waited a 2 years because I was told this generation had a heavier axle weight over the previous year.

I don't know what a 2021 179dbk is... but the tow vehicle is expected to carry some of the weight - tongue weight.
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Old 06-12-2024, 10:13 AM   #4
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The trailer manufactures expect about 10% of the GVWR to be carried by the tongue, and not the axles. I always thought the manufactures use the cheapest, lowest rating components they could get away with. Years ago, we had a Coleman pop-up camper with a 2,500# GVWR and had a Dexter 2,200# axle. However on our 2022 Surveyor Legend 19BHLE that is not so. It's GVWR is 4808#, but the axle is a LCI with a rating of 5,200#, but the springs installed are only 2,200# each ( 4,400# total ). I emailed Lippert and asked what was the part number for the bearings, and they stated they were the 6,000# bearing set. I don't know why they used the larger axle, but I like extra weight margin.
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Old 06-12-2024, 10:15 AM   #5
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The actual gross weight rating can be less than axle rating if factory builds a lighter duty frame to reduce weight.

The sticker gvwr is what was certified with regulators and is not necessarily determined by axle ratings alone.
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Old 06-12-2024, 11:07 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
The actual gross weight rating can be less than axle rating if factory builds a lighter duty frame to reduce weight.

The sticker gvwr is what was certified with regulators and is not necessarily determined by axle ratings alone.
X2. I'd be more concerned with the tires with the cracking sidewalls over the winter months every year. Something's wrong there.
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Old 06-12-2024, 01:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forsakentalon View Post
And just realized they cheat by adding an additional 400lbs being transferred to the tongue weight therefore to the tow vehicle...
That's actually legal and not cheating since the axle can never support 100% of the weight, except for the brief instant after the tongue slips off the ball and hits the ground.

Quote:
Any thoughts why my tires get cracked sidewalls after every winter though?
More info is needed:

Brand of tires.

Name of the tire, if any.

Exact size of tires.

Load Range of the tires.

Have you ever run the trailer over a CAT Scale when fully loaded for a trip? If so, what were the numbers?

What pressure do you run? If not the pressure molded into the tire sidewall you should pump them up to that pressure for long-term storage.

Do you use tire covers?

Stored inside or outside? If inside, is there any equipment inside that generates ozone, such as an arc welder or motors (like a compressor). Ozone will kill tires fast.

What are the expected temperatures?

Ray
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Old 06-12-2024, 02:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forsakentalon View Post
I was underneath my 2021 179dbk replacing tires like every spring as for some reason I always get cracked sidewalls from the fall to the spring.

Anyways, I noticed a sticker on my axle I had never seen before. It stated 4400lbs. Now according to my weights sticker, I have 4800lbs for the gross vehicle weight rating. My dry weight is supposed to be 3500lbs. So I should have 1300lbs cargo carrying capacity.

But according to the axle sticker I only have 900lbs. So what gives? Which sticker to follow?

I am aware of what to subtract from cargo carrying capacity. Including tank weights.

I am annoyed that the forest river sticker has potentially lied to me. Annoyed that I waited a 2 years because I was told this generation had a heavier axle weight over the previous year.

Does seem short time for tires to crack. Might consider covers.
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Old 06-12-2024, 02:49 PM   #9
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Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Running Gear/Axles/Brakes/Tires and Frames sub-forum since the OP's questions are specific to that sub-forum and not general questions.
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:00 PM   #10
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About Tires

This kind of tire "decay" is likely caused by environmental factors...or VERY cheap tires from an unreliable manufacturer.

Sticking with environmental factors...suggestions:
1) Park over the winter on boards or trex-like board. Get your tires off the ground. Some recommend jacking the tires up off the surface and carrying the load on blocks. In nearly 20 years of camping, I've never done this, and I've had no problems, but I was always parked on well-drained pavement or on boards to keep the tires out of the dirt.
2) Use tire covers to prevent UV damage from the sun.
3) Consider using a "tire dressing" to protect the tires, but do your homework on products. There is a LOT of garbage out there being passed off as protectants. A detailer's "tire shine" product isn't necessarily the same as a "protectant." I have no recommendations, because I don't use the stuff, but there are products that can be protective.
4) A big one. Where are you parking the rig? Environmental factors include high moisture and a variety of other factors that can be damaging to the rig as well as the tires. Don't park in a shady swamp...or the equivalent. Wherever you are currently parking your rig over the winter seems to be unhealthy for your rig.

You need to figure out what is causing your tires to decay prematurely before you spend money on more tires.

You already know that this isn't normal. Your tires should age out at about 5 years of service for the same reasons, but not yearly.

When replacing tires, stay away from the so-called "China Bombs." There is a LOT of discussion on the forums about tires and costly tire failures. In that you'll find recommendations of "good" brands vs. the China Bombs. Personally, I recommend Goodyear Endurance tires. A bit more expensive, but top quality.
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