Bearing and Brake service at the dealer

[PDuB-IA2MI]

I needed some warranty work done on my Wolf Pup 16BHS, I have a big trip (4000k+ miles) planned in the spring, and I had a brake catching, so I paid for a brake inspection and bearing repack, $80.

I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is legit or not. Below are before and after pictures. The first set are very dry, but the after...wow.

Is this much marine grease normal, or should I have a chat with the tech at Cheyenne Camping Center?

When I was towing home, my brakes weren't catching anymore...they basically weren't there. I did a burnishing procedure and they seemed better, but, is that an indication they actually pulled the drum?

Should I clean up this blue mess and see if I have new cotter pins? That's my best clue if the drums were actually pulled, right?Attachment 265489Attachment 265490

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

I needed some warranty work done on my Wolf Pup 16BHS, I have a big trip (4000k+ miles) planned in the spring, and I had a brake catching, so I paid for a brake inspection and bearing repack, $80.

I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is legit or not. Below are before and after pictures. The first set are very dry, but the after...wow.

Is this much marine grease normal, or should I have a chat with the tech at Cheyenne Camping Center?

When I was towing home, my brakes weren't catching anymore...they basically weren't there. I did a burnishing procedure and they seemed better, but, is that an indication they actually pulled the drum?

Should I clean up this blue mess and see if I have new cotter pins? That's my best clue if the drums were actually pulled, right?Attachment 265489Attachment 265490Attachment 265491

The blue grease is probably just fine. Bearing grease can have different colors just because they come from different manufacturers. A trailer shop will use a grease with proper specs.

The grease you see in the wheel center opening is normal. I'd just leave it alone as it won't cause any problems but if you want you can just wipe most of he excess out. Either way.

This type of axle doesn't use cotter keys. If there was a hole for it drilled in the spindle the EZ-Lube system wouldn't work so the Mfr has used a locking "clip". They are re-usable and don't need to be replaced with new as a cotter key that's bent when installed does.

Continue burnishing brakes and adjusting controller until it's just right for your needs.

[NavyLCDR]

There would be no reason for there to be grease filling the dust cap area like that if they pulled the hub and packed the bearing by hand. Grease ends up there when you pump it in through the EZ Lube zerk fitting. I would be concerned that they connected a power grease gun to the EZ Lube zerk fitting.

There are no cotter pins in the EZ lube spindle. There is a reusable clip.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

I grew up on a farm, and I've pulled a lot of cotter pins in my time. They look exactly like this:
Attachment 265510

[PDuB-IA2MI]

For some reason the before pics aren't loading:Attachment 265511

[Bama Rambler]

Have you tried using the manual lever and cranking the gain up to see if the brakes will lock up the wheels at least on dirt?

If after proper burnishing, you don't feel like the brakes are working properly, I would think about pulling at least one of the hubs to see if there is any grease in it affecting the braking. A lot of shops will use a pneumatic grease gun on the E-Z-Lube fitting to load the bearings after a disassembly and that can compromise the seals.

[phillyg]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

......If...... you don't feel like the brakes are working properly, I would think about pulling at least one of the hubs to see if there is any grease in it affecting the braking. A lot of shops will use a pneumatic grease gun on the E-Z-Lube fitting to load the bearings after a disassembly and that can compromise the seals.

I agree.

[MR.M]

looks like their idea of a bearing pack is using the ez lube

[D W]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

I grew up on a farm, and I've pulled a lot of cotter pins in my time. They look exactly like this:Attachment 265509
Attachment 265510

X2. I have Lippert 5200 lb axles with EZ lube. They have cotter pins. The cotter pin hole is drilled off-center so as not to interfere with EZ lube system.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Have you tried using the manual lever and cranking the gain up to see if the brakes will lock up the wheels at least on dirt?

If after proper burnishing, you don't feel like the brakes are working properly, I would think about pulling at least one of the hubs to see if there is any grease in it affecting the braking. A lot of shops will use a pneumatic grease gun on the E-Z-Lube fitting to load the bearings after a disassembly and that can compromise the seals.

Originally Posted by phillyg

I agree.

Same. The amount of grease I wouldn't worry about, but if the brakes aren't working I'd start poking around. I use a lot of grease as well when packing by hand - just make sure to leave sufficient room for expansion.

[CedarCreekWoody]

I asked my dealer about greasing the bearings and found out they don't do hand packing, they only use the zero fittings. That looks like what this dealer has done.

[REL]

I took my camper to a shop that works on big rigs for annual State inspection. They inspected and hand packed the bearings even though they are EZ lube hubs. I requested they be hand packed. The manager chuckled and said we never use EZ lube, we do it right.

[Werk]

To me $80.00 seems pretty cheap, that’s not even an hour at most shops.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by Werk

To me $80.00 seems pretty cheap, that’s not even an hour at most shops.

I totally agree. I wonder how much of a brake inspection they actually did. But it is only single axle.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Werk

To me $80.00 seems pretty cheap, that’s not even an hour at most shops.

In the world of brake repair and inspections the cost is often a "loss leader" designed to attract customers. Many of these "inspections" can lead to very lucrative repair jobs.

In the Car Dealer Service Shops these were referred to as "Magic Prices" where the ptice had no real world relationship to the time the job takes.

On that last note a simple brake inspection in a well equipped shop can be accomplished in 30 minutes or less on a single axle. Even with new seal and using a "bucket pump bearing packer".

Back yard/driveway jobs take longer.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

Originally Posted by Werk

To me $80.00 seems pretty cheap, that’s not even an hour at most shops.

Cheyenne Camping Center charges $125 an hour for axle/brake work. With my single axle Wolf Pup, having bought the TT there, and me staying onsite to take it home so they didn't have to store it: $80.

I do like my dealer, but my life philosophy is "Trust, but verify".

[Werk]

An inspection is one thing, a inspection and repack is another. To repack right they should pull clean the bearings and repack and add new seals. The cost of grease and seals has got to be at least $20-30 a wheel at a dealer. That’s if it’s done right.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Werk

An inspection is one thing, a inspection and repack is another. To repack right they should pull clean the bearings and repack and add new seals. The cost of grease and seals has got to be at least $20-30 a wheel at a dealer. That’s if it’s done right.

That's some expensive grease and seals.

Seals are ~$5 retail for most axles and grease is ~$5/tube (retail).

Dealers of course buy seals for less and grease is a LOT less in bulk.

[fanrgs]

I just called a local RV brake and bearing specialist last week. New bearings, clips, repacking, etc.= $25/wheel plus labor (ie., $100 for parts for 4 wheels). If he is replacing brake kits at the same time, that is the total cost per wheel for new bearings, not just for repacking. His wait time is 3 weeks.