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06-18-2020, 06:18 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Sodus, NY
Posts: 190
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tips
Heres a tip from a brake specialist. To remove the seal, bearing and race, first remove the outside nut washers and bearing. Put the nut and washer back on the axle, you dont need to put it on all the way, just several threads. Pull the drum off slowly until it drops down onto the smaller portion of the axle. Then with both hands on the drum, pull it quickly and firmly off the axle and the nut will remove the race, bearing and seal, all at once. This doesnt usually destroy the seal, but you do no reuse a seal. This technique has worked for me since I worked in a brake shop in the 60's. Dont do that anymore, but it still works.
__________________
RockinH Bill
2019 Silverback 37RTH
2014 Shadow LQ 3 horse select
2015 Ram Laramie DRW
2012 Kaw Concours
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06-18-2020, 06:29 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockinh
Heres a tip from a brake specialist. To remove the seal, bearing and race, first remove the outside nut washers and bearing. Put the nut and washer back on the axle, you dont need to put it on all the way, just several threads. Pull the drum off slowly until it drops down onto the smaller portion of the axle. Then with both hands on the drum, pull it quickly and firmly off the axle and the nut will remove the race, bearing and seal, all at once. This doesnt usually destroy the seal, but you do no reuse a seal. This technique has worked for me since I worked in a brake shop in the 60's. Dont do that anymore, but it still works.
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I have only had a few vehicles where the nut can go past the outer race. My trailer is one of them.
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06-18-2020, 07:40 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Western AZ
Posts: 2,404
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I work at a NAPA store, we have all sorts of trailer supplies inner and outer bearings/ seals/buddy bearings Magnets etc etc. There are maybe 4/5 seals for trailers. Write down the inner bearing number (all bearing Mfg use same number) bring in one seal and that bearing number and if they can't help you PM me with that info and by next day I'll have your part numbers. Common numbers will be 12649 11468
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06-18-2020, 09:01 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockinh
Heres a tip from a brake specialist. To remove the seal, bearing and race, first remove the outside nut washers and bearing. Put the nut and washer back on the axle, you dont need to put it on all the way, just several threads. Pull the drum off slowly until it drops down onto the smaller portion of the axle. Then with both hands on the drum, pull it quickly and firmly off the axle and the nut will remove the race, bearing and seal, all at once. This doesnt usually destroy the seal, but you do no reuse a seal. This technique has worked for me since I worked in a brake shop in the 60's. Dont do that anymore, but it still works.
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I learned that method way back about the same time. On my current trailer the metal retainer on the seal is considerably "deeper" and it takes a ton of pull to remove, The old seals were a lot thinner. If you lay one from even an older trailer (without EZ-Lube) next to a seal for an EZ-Lube hub, the non EZ-Lube seal is about half the height. That extra metal helps keep the seal in place when greasing.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-18-2020, 09:32 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: OREGON
Posts: 132
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Dont always trust seal numbers mine had the wrong seals installed from dexter.i always put new seals in it's cheap insurance.
Also to remove seal take out the outer bearing and spin nut back on and couple good pulls seal will pop out.
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06-18-2020, 10:47 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
If you lay one from even an older trailer (without EZ-Lube) next to a seal for an EZ-Lube hub, the non EZ-Lube seal is about half the height. That extra metal helps keep the seal in place when greasing.
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They are a standard seal they buy from whatever sources the cheapest from China. There is no difference from when I bought seals years ago before there was such a thing as EZ-Lube.
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06-19-2020, 02:19 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
The fact that these seals take a fair amount of effort to remove (they are driven into place with a hammer after all), makes me smile every time I hear people saying that using the EZ-Lube Xerks with a Hand Grease Gun causes the "Seals to pop out".
Now if someone installed the wrong seal and it was loose due to improper diameter, It was going to be a problem regardless.
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Ive never seen a seal "Pop Off" I have seen grease pushed through the seals and a coating of grease nearly 1/4" thick coating ALL the surfaces and brake parts on a camper.
It was mine, I had just purchased it used. I ended up replacing the entire set of 4 backing plates and completely new brakes/
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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06-19-2020, 07:48 AM
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#28
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Senior Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 288
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Just my opinion
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJKris
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Waste of money...
Look on YouTube for video of seal removal using vise grip pliers.
If you want a like new seal puller you can have mine... worthless.
All this is JMHO
Happy camping to all
__________________
2015 Flagstaff Super V 26VFKSS Emerald... SOLD
Now camping with a new SOB Winnebago pulled by a 2021 Ford Ranger.
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06-19-2020, 08:17 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockinh
Heres a tip from a brake specialist. To remove the seal, bearing and race, first remove the outside nut washers and bearing. Put the nut and washer back on the axle, you dont need to put it on all the way, just several threads. Pull the drum off slowly until it drops down onto the smaller portion of the axle. Then with both hands on the drum, pull it quickly and firmly off the axle and the nut will remove the race, bearing and seal, all at once. This doesnt usually destroy the seal, but you do no reuse a seal. This technique has worked for me since I worked in a brake shop in the 60's. Dont do that anymore, but it still works.
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While i used to do this (albeit in the 70s, not the 60s, Dexter warns agains this method as it could damage the bearings.
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06-19-2020, 08:59 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,272
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I'm no "brake specialist", but I am a mechanic by trade and have serviced both disk and drum brakes over the years. In an earlier reply someone stated he could remove the inner bearing race along with the bearing and seal using the spindle nut and washer ... then pulling the whole drum firmly off the spindle by hand. I'll buy into the part about removing the inner bearing and seal this way, but you're not selling me the goods on how you can also get the inner bearing race out of the drum hub this way ... unless you're talking about a lawn cart spindle. You'll have to beat the inner race out of any 5800#, 6000#, and 7000# axle with a brass or aluminum drift ... the spindle washer will pass right thru these inner bearing races ... plus you'd have to be one super strong dude!
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06-19-2020, 10:30 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babock
They are a standard seal they buy from whatever sources the cheapest from China. There is no difference from when I bought seals years ago before there was such a thing as EZ-Lube.
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Actually, mine weren't. I tossed my spares from my 95 Terry because they weren't the same as my 2018 even though bearings were.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-19-2020, 10:51 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Actually, mine weren't. I tossed my spares from my 95 Terry because they weren't the same as my 2018 even though bearings were.
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Yep...some cheap seals are out there. I have some 20 to 30 year old seals in my garage from an old boat I looked at last night. Look exactly like my new Timkens. Double lip.Of course they are for a boat application but who wouldn't buy double lip seals for any trailer.
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06-19-2020, 10:55 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy
I'm no "brake specialist", but I am a mechanic by trade and have serviced both disk and drum brakes over the years. In an earlier reply someone stated he could remove the inner bearing race along with the bearing and seal using the spindle nut and washer ... then pulling the whole drum firmly off the spindle by hand. I'll buy into the part about removing the inner bearing and seal this way, but you're not selling me the goods on how you can also get the inner bearing race out of the drum hub this way ... unless you're talking about a lawn cart spindle. You'll have to beat the inner race out of any 5800#, 6000#, and 7000# axle with a brass or aluminum drift ... the spindle washer will pass right thru these inner bearing races ... plus you'd have to be one super strong dude!
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I missed that part. Yes...impossible. I used to be able to remove the inner bearing and seal using the nut trick on a trailer we had with 5000# axles but not on any 3500# axles I have had in a awhile. I have 3 trailers with 3500# axles and you can't do that trick with any of them. Not that it matters. A seal remover takes 30 seconds.
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06-19-2020, 10:57 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy
I'm no "brake specialist", but I am a mechanic by trade and have serviced both disk and drum brakes over the years. In an earlier reply someone stated he could remove the inner bearing race along with the bearing and seal using the spindle nut and washer ... then pulling the whole drum firmly off the spindle by hand. I'll buy into the part about removing the inner bearing and seal this way, but you're not selling me the goods on how you can also get the inner bearing race out of the drum hub this way ... unless you're talking about a lawn cart spindle. You'll have to beat the inner race out of any 5800#, 6000#, and 7000# axle with a brass or aluminum drift ... the spindle washer will pass right thru these inner bearing races ... plus you'd have to be one super strong dude!
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Right you are, me lad..........It is the only way Ive ever known how to do it.
As far as the inner grease seal, when you use that brass drift and carefully tap on the inner bearing that removes the grease seal too. Both fall out at once.
(That was for those who dont' now what we are talking about Im sure you understand full well.)
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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06-19-2020, 11:10 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid
Right you are, me lad..........It is the only way Ive ever known how to do it.
As far as the inner grease seal, when you use that brass drift and carefully tap on the inner bearing that removes the grease seal too. Both fall out at once.
(That was for those who dont' now what we are talking about Im sure you understand full well.)
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That is of course if you are changing bearings and seals. If you are just inspecting the bearings and repacking, you use a seal puller.
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06-19-2020, 12:12 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babock
Yep...some cheap seals are out there. I have some 20 to 30 year old seals in my garage from an old boat I looked at last night. Look exactly like my new Timkens. Double lip.Of course they are for a boat application but who wouldn't buy double lip seals for any trailer.
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If you look up the part number for an EZ Lube seal it is totally different than for a non -EZ Lube.
They have identical ID and OD. Difference is in the metal body with the EZ-Lube being noticeably different. If replaced with a standard seal I would expedt it to be pushed out when greasing. It's not just being a double lipped seal, it's also how the "rubber" is supported.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-19-2020, 12:21 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
If you look up the part number for an EZ Lube seal it is totally different than for a non -EZ Lube.
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So...what is the part number for an EZ-Lube seal on a 3500# axle? Where did you buy them?
Out of curiosity, do people actually buy Dexter seals and bearings? Why wouldn't you upgrade to a higher US or non chinese made bearing and seal.
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06-25-2020, 06:41 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJKris
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I have never bothered to use one. Just a hammer, screwdriver, and a block of wood.
I usually tap them in a little first to break them loose. Then I pop them out.
Bob
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06-25-2020, 07:10 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babock
So...what is the part number for an EZ-Lube seal on a 3500# axle? Where did you buy them?
Out of curiosity, do people actually buy Dexter seals and bearings? Why wouldn't you upgrade to a higher US or non chinese made bearing and seal.
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The Dexter number is 010-019-00.
CR (Chicago Rawhide) number is CR 17144
CR is owned by SKF which is a Swedish Company. Wonder how many of their seals are made in China.
FWIW, are you SURE that the seals used by Dexter are chinese made?
What I find funny is that the Chinese have huge manufacturing operations, build all kinds of military and commercial equipment, including airplanes.
To hear all the 'cheap chinese" rhetoric you'd think they would have vehicles falling apart and airplanes falling from the sky.
I tend to go with my actual experience and so far I have yet to have a seal fail on any of my trailer axles (even since my first back in the early 70's) regardless of country of origin.
Of course even the best seals can be damaged if someone doesn't install them correctly or tries to use the "this looks like it should fit" seal.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-25-2020, 07:26 PM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 32
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It's very simple! Once you have the drum off, the seal number is on the metal part of the seal.
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