Bolting versus welding on frame

[BobA]

I had always intended to affix outriggers to the trailer frame. There was no reason for me to wait in having those fabricated. The question always was to bolt or weld.... Thanks.

[tomkatb]

I would have more faith that you with a properly sized bolt and a torque wrench would be more trustworthy than you and your new Harbor freight Stick welder.

Welding thin plate is tricky. I have seen a ton of welds that look great but, are not.

Lots of classic car owners learn this the hard way. Guys that can weld a partial quarter panel in are rare.

[TowPro]

Originally Posted by BobA

I've already had the outriggers fabricated at a local shop. Yes, they are over-engineered and I would likely make them out of thinner stock next time.

I've thought about adding a plate to the back side of the frame to eliminate some of the deflection of the frame that is bound to occur......if I go with the bolting method of attachment.

why even weld or bolt it to frame? all your doing is making a triangle so the downward force on the floor is transferred to the side of the RV frame. If this bracket is attached to the floor, its not going anywhere.

[Aussieguy]

Triangle needs to be attached

Welding is simpler
The tube will be a bit thicker than sheet metal panel material
Small welds keep it cold
Done…..

[5picker]

There's been a bunch of speculation/opinions in this thread so I'll add mine...

Those brackets are more than oversized for sure and without proper welding experience, welding that thick angle to thin frame material is going to be trickier than one would think. Getting enough heat for proper penetration on the thick angle is going to be a bear to keep from burning through the thin frame.

At this point I like your idea of another plate on the inside of the frame to back up the angle on the outside. Drill the holes more towards the top and bottom of the frame and tighten appropriately. And no need to over engineer the bolt size. Don't be drilling 1/2" holes. I'd go no larger than 3/8".

[MR.M]

Personally if using bolts i would drill a big enough hole to add a sleeve through frame, weld in place then use bolts the sleeve will keep the frame from being bent or distorted and can torque without worry . just a little more work .

[Ballistic]

Originally Posted by MR.M

Personally if using bolts i would drill a big enough hole to add a sleeve through frame, weld in place then use bolts the sleeve will keep the frame from being bent or distorted and can torque without worry . just a little more work .

This.

[Bob K4TAX]

Our Wildwood X-Lite 253RLXL has supports welded on each side of the frame. This is a factory configuration. I presume by the company that made the frame. These brackets support the box out to the outside walls. As I recall the frame members are I beams and not tubular. But I'd have to look to be sure. And I'd be glad to make pictures if needed.

Bob

[BobA]

Thank you for your input, Bob.

Our rPod 176 is so small and light that the tubular frame was all that was required. The side walls of this trailer only sit 6 inches outside of the frame rails. Had the floor been properly engineered by Forest River then I and hundreds (thousands?) of other rPod owners would not be dealing with this mess.

On the positive, we've had no other major issues with this rPod (built pre-COVID).

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this post; I REALLY appreciate it.

Bob in Grand Rapids, MI

[Jim34RL]

Sorry, I am late to the party; but I worked for a heavy-duty equipment company where the company employed between 15 and 20 engineers in one business group (there were several business groups in the company). Who did nothing but analysis structures for loading conditions. All welds and mounting holes where analysis for cracking due to loading conditions on these structures. If a simple boss or mounting hole was to be added by another design group, these additions had to be approved by the analysis group.

I doubt that Forest River employees anyone to do structure analysis on a R-pod or similar trailer.

So, do you feel safe in adding a mounting hole or a welding to a thin frame member on your trailer. You do run the risk of causing a weld or hole to propagate from the frame changes into a crack or frame failure in the future.

Just saying.

[BobA]

Originally Posted by Jim34RL

Sorry, I am late to the party; but I worked for a heavy-duty equipment company where the company employed between 15 and 20 engineers in one business group (there were several business groups in the company). Who did nothing but analysis structures for loading conditions. All welds and mounting holes where analysis for cracking due to loading conditions on these structures. If a simple boss or mounting hole was to be added by another design group, these additions had to be approved by the analysis group.

I doubt that Forest River employees anyone to do structure analysis on a R-pod or similar trailer.

So, do you feel safe in adding a mounting hole or a welding to a thin frame member on your trailer. You do run the risk of causing a weld or hole to propagate from the frame changes into a crack or frame failure in the future.

Just saying.

Hey Jim.

At this point I am so confused I'll probably just sit on this for awhile.

I am currently thinking I will try to sell the heavy-duty 3/8" outriggers I had fabricated.......... have new 3/16" outriggers fabricated.........then go with welding them to the frame.

Thanks for your perspective.

Bob
Grand Rapids, MI

[wolfie53]

You have a 2020 with a sagging floor? I would politely contact Forest River and make arrangements to take your trailer to Elkhart and have Forest River make it right. They have a service facility for this kind of stuff. Your trailer show be good as designed but is sounds like you have a bad build.

Frames are engineered with safety factors but once you start doing mods all bets are off.