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Old 10-24-2016, 09:22 PM   #21
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Did you check for grease on the shoes.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:33 PM   #22
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Brakes

Pulled all four wheels. No grease on the shoes. Everything appears to be in order. I reassembled everything and adjusted the brakes tighter than before. We'll see. I'll hook up tomorrow and test the brakes. If it's not better than I have two decisions to make. Start taking electrical connections apart our just try new shoes. These are worn more than I remembered. Maybe 50 percent worn. Shouldn't matter but........ The electrical connections look good but until I take them apart you never know.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:43 PM   #23
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Is the area the magnets grab to grease free as well? and.... Before you start taking connections apart, check the truck to trailer plugs first. Thats usually where I have my issues.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:48 PM   #24
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The trailer to truck connection was one of the first things I checked. Cleaned and lubed it with contact cleaner, checked it with my volt meter all good. Voltage matches controller readout.

No grease on the magnets or drums.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:53 PM   #25
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I know it's late to ask, but when you had the drums off, did you pull a magnet and have your wife slide the actuator bar all the way on and try to pull the magnet away to see if you are getting the amperage in the magnet coil?
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:55 PM   #26
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hope you get it worked out
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:58 PM   #27
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No. It was getting dark and I didn't want to leave the camper on jacks overnight. I'll do that for sure. It will be a day our so till I can get back to it. It's a good idea. Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:08 PM   #28
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At least you aren't up here. It's 38 and raining to beat the band.... Glad my unit is in the barn where it's dry and relatively warm....

I'm bow hunting this weekend. I'll be dressing warmly.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:18 PM   #29
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Where's home? Here in WNC we have temps in the 30s or 40s at night warm during the days.

Good hunting!
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:21 PM   #30
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That will be the key to your dilemma I suspect. If you have someone actuate the controller and you can easily pull the magnet(s) away from the drum face...you have a high resistance connection somewhere....and it may not be in the trailer wiring at all. It may possibly be in the truck wiring......

When I bought my truck, a had the dealer install a gooseneck hitch (for hauling a hay trailer) and they cut into the harness and added a second 7 way plug in the bed. When they spliced into the harness they didn't do it properly and I had a high resistance connection (my controller showed solid red but I was getting little braking power). I had to take their cabbage job apart and redo it, all soldered and shrink tube connections.

Did a lot of cussing over that deal.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:23 PM   #31
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Must be nice to have a barn to put the camper. I'm going to have to build a shed at least. Being out all winter is hard on the camper and even harder on me in the spring!
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:27 PM   #32
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I'll have to check but my previous 5r had great brakes. Same truck same plug.

Can't make assumptions. Step by step.......
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:34 PM   #33
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Larry..

How much pull the magnets have will tell the story right away. I strongly suspect you have a high resistance connection somewhere....

Glad I have a barn too. My unit is in there with the farm tractors and the barn cats which are supposed to keep the mice under control.....

They don't do a real good job but they do do a good job of leaving cat paw prints on everything.....
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:42 PM   #34
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Well, that's the next step. Maybe tomorrow evening I can get my bride to help me. Then we will know something.
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:03 PM   #35
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brakes

Ok. Today I pulled a wheel back off and with my brides help checked the magnet. I used a2-1/2" impact socket to test the magnet. She pulled the lever, voltage said 11 volts and that magnet is pretty darn strong. I know that it is subjective but I think that part of the whole assembly is ok. Put everything back together, hooked up and gave it a pull.

Two observations:
The brakes, having been adjusted tighter than before, and being tighter than I think wise work much better. Still won't lock the wheels but pulling the camper with the truck with the brakes applied is now a challenge.

I think a complete brake job is in order. We have one more short trip before winterizing and then I will do it. New shoes, maybe turn the drums, clean and lube everything properly and check and solder all of the connections on the truck.

It's all about the magnet travel. If the brakes are not adjusted correctly the magnets run out of travel. Worn shoes aggravate the problem. As they wear they do not match the drum radius. The more they wear the worse the mismatch. Further adjustment is needed and
on and on.

So thanks to everyone for their help. I'll post the results of the brake overhaul but that will be over the winter.

Happy camping!
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:32 PM   #36
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Found out a long time ago at ford-trucks.com that late model Ford trucks will adjust through the pigtail so the trailer will not lockup. Not sure if GM or others do the same.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #37
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brakes

My rig is an 04 duo I'm not sure that applies. I could lock the brakes at will on my previous 5er
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrybessette View Post
My rig is an 04 duo I'm not sure that applies. I could lock the brakes at will on my previous 5er
Agree, that is why I said it was stated "late model". I'm not sure what year "late model" entails. I know I have not been able to lock brakes on the last 2, possibly 3, Fords I have towed with.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:19 PM   #39
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Larry..

Just remember that it's the amperage that energizes the magnets, not the voltage. Voltage means nothing other than on a heavy amperage draw, the voltage will drop.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:51 PM   #40
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Ohm's Law - The basics - Ohms Law Formulas Explained to save you time

don't know if everyone here know how to check circuits, so i'll post this link.

maybe it will help out those that don't
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