Electric Trailer Brakes Question

robbecky · 01-26-2019, 02:34 PM

Hi again folks. I have attached the instructions from my 2019 Ram 1500 manual regarding setting up the trailer braking.

I have a FR Vibe 251RKS TT.

It says that with some trailers you may not be able to get the brakes to lock up when testing for setup. That was the case for me. Even with the setting on +10 (max) there was only a small amount of braking I could feel on the trailer when manually engaging the trailer brakes from the truck.

So, that given, I am at a loss of what to set the brake gain setting on in the truck. Should it just be on the max? Am I doing something wrong?

I have tried setting the braking type to light electric and heavy electric. I feel braking but very light in both cases.

Suggestions / Advice ........ ??

Thanks,
Rob

TitanMike · 01-26-2019, 03:19 PM

If your brakes are brand new it's not unusual for drum brakes to require some "seat in" time to obtain max braking force. By design the shoes do not match the same radius as the drum surface so the brakes are more "progressive" when applied. After a wear in period that can range from only a few stops to quite a few the brakes will become more effective.

As for the amount of "Boost" to set the controller for initially, I'd start with the setting suggested by the controller manufacturer which usually takes into consideration factors like Number of Axles (with brakes), weight of trailer, and weight of tow vehicle.

On my 25BDS Micro Lite it took a 100 mile trip for the trailer brakes to wear in for me. FWIW, I don't really use my brakes as much as some as I like to leave lots of room ahead of me in traffic (if your behind me, live with it) so slowing is merely a matter of lifting the throttle. Downhills are handled mostly by gear selection. My 22 year old trailer I sold before buying the Micro Lite had been across the US 6 times with numerous, uncounted trips within the state, and had the original brakes on it.

Lastly, the only time I have ever been able to get my trailer brakes to lock up is when on a dirt/gravel road or the paved road is wet. The better the tire and traction, the less likely the wheel will lock up which on a trailer, is not a bad thing.

Jeffjeeptj · 01-26-2019, 04:12 PM

We have a new FR Surveyor that was causing the tow vehicle to pull right when stopping fairly hard after about 600 miles If stopping easy, there was no issue. The brakes are supposed to be self adjusting in the forward direction. We pulled into a shopping center for DW to get some groceries. I stayed in the car and moved the teailer forwards and backwards while manually activating the brake controller. I did this 6 or 7 times and at first one the left side brakes was locking. I Was doing all of 5 mph, probably less. I got out with my laser temp gauge and the left brake drums were at 130F and the right side about 80F. I let things cool off
A couple of more fore/aft brake applications and all 4 brake drumes were about the same temp.
DW returned to the driver seat, trip resumed, and she noticed there was no more pulling. Also, the sensation of warped drums went away. My logic was at least one brake was tighter than the others and would cause the trailer to decelerate faster than the tow vehicle and the brake controller would ease upmand reapply quickly giving a jerking motion.
As posted above, let the brakes wear in, and try a few for/aft manual adjustment applications.

babock · 01-26-2019, 06:52 PM

On my Coachmen with the Dexter Nevr adjust brakes, I can skid the tires when manually activating the brakes. When the trailer was new, I couldn't do it. The brakes shoes need to seat. I was actually surprised that hadn't had a chance to do that given that the trailer was towed from Indiana to CA. Maybe they put it on a flat bed or they towed without the brakes operating.

JohnD10 · 01-26-2019, 07:33 PM

You don't want the brakes to lock up...

You want them to cause drag on the tow vehicle to HELP stop the whole rig.

Locked up tires skid (ie.- slide), so they would not be helping you to stop at all.

Especially on wet roads.

rsdata · 01-26-2019, 07:58 PM

You DID read the part about having to travel at 20-25 MPH to be able to feel any brakes being applied...

When on a straight level course, break like at a red light... adjust the brake force till you can feel the trailer pull the truck to a stop, then back off a little.

Start with light electric and about 50% brake force... go up or down as necessary...

You did not over grease the hubs and push grease into the brakes did you?

babock · 01-26-2019, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnD10

You don't want the brakes to lock up...

You want them to cause drag on the tow vehicle to HELP stop the whole rig.

Locked up tires skid (ie.- slide), so they would not be helping you to stop at all.

Especially on wet roads.

That's why you set them up so they don't skid. They do WAY more than just help.

emm-dee · 01-26-2019, 09:26 PM

Even before I changed to disc brakes on my trailer I found the best braking feel was when the controller was set to “heavy electric over hydraulic”.

jimmoore13 · 01-27-2019, 03:15 PM

Others have given excellent advice on brakes "break-in" and controller adjustment.

But it's good to know that the trailer brakes are functioning as they should. One way to determine if the trailer brakes themselves are up to snuff is to conduct a simple test.

In a flat, safe area...with no traffic around...hook up, then pull the emergency brake cable as if the trailer and tow vehicle were separated. When stopped, the brakes should be locked or nearly locked. (When going down the road in a real emergency, the trailer brakes should not fully lock up, or the rig could careen out of control as it slides.) A gentle tug with the tow vehicle will tell you. No need to abuse anything. The brakes on the trailer should essentially refuse to let the trailer move from a dead stop.

With this test, you can determine if the trailer brakes are working as they should. This does not address brake controller compatibility or setup, but it does allow you to rule out problems with the trailer brakes.

I had an experience where my coupler came off the ball - dumb mistake - at very slow speed on a badly potholed dirt road. The potholes were 10" to 12" deep, and as wheels alternately dropped into potholes, the left/right yanks on the coupler made it pop free (I forgot to install a latch pin on the coupler so the coupler opened on its own from the violent twisting on the hitch).
When I went to reconnect, I jacked the trailer tongue through several stages to get it up to where I could reconnect to the ball. Then I foolishly replaced the safety brake cable plunger "while I was thinking of it" and fearing I'd forget. A long line of vehicles had piled up behind and in front of me. The brakes WERE locked, and I released them. The trailer immediately lurched to settle down into one of the offending potholes! So, at a dead stop, the trailer brakes WILL lock when the safety brakes are actuated. A bad day full of hard lessons for me, but evidence that, when fully applied (without proportional control and without forward momentum to keep the wheels turning), the trailer brakes can and will lock.

TGR · 01-27-2019, 03:55 PM

As mentioned by others, drum-style breaks require a break-in before they perform at their best. The directions below are from Lippert but they apply to other drumb-style breaks.

IMPORTANT!

Break-in period for electric drum brakes

The break-in period is a typical phenomenon with drum brakes and especially electric drum brakes. Electric drum brakes will require a break-in period to achieve full performance. This break-in period applies for new axles and any time new brake shoes and/or magnets are installed as part of regular maintenance.

Lippert Components has found through extensive brake testing that the break-in period for our drum brakes can range from 20 to 50 brake applications.

Brakes can be seated in by applying approximately 8-10 volts to the trailer brakes at an initial speed of 40 mph and allowing the truck/trailer combination to slow down to 20 or 25 mph. For best results do not use truck brakes during this procedure. The trailer brakes will seat in faster by using them to stop both the truck and trailer. The easiest method is to apply the trailer brakes using the manual activation lever located on the in-cab brake controller. Care must be taken to not overheat the lining material, therefore brake applications conducted at one mile intervals will suffice. The driver should feel a noticeable difference in the brake performance during this period, sometimes in as few as 10 applications. After 50 applications, the brake lining material will be fully cured from the heat and develop close to 100% contact with the brake drum surface.

This break in period not only seats the shoe lining material but also seats in the brake electromagnets. During the break-in period, the linings will wear at a faster rate than they do after they are seated in.

BarabooBob · 01-27-2019, 05:09 PM

Do your trailer brakes automatically adjust themselves or do you need to adjust them? My brakes were almost useless when I bought the trailer until I adjusted them.

JohnD10 · 01-27-2019, 05:37 PM

Mine auto adjust when I back up and pump the brakes.

jimmoore13 · 01-28-2019, 12:44 PM

[QUOTE=TGR;2013297]As mentioned by others, drum-style breaks require a break-in before they perform at their best. The directions below are from Lippert but they apply to other drumb-style breaks.
<<SNIP>>

Great info.
I replaced the rotors and pads on my TV with high-performance slotted/"drilled" rotors and ceramic pads. There was a break-in procedure somewhat similar to this involving repeated stops from moderate speed with high braking forces and an attempt to head up the system. The truck brakes are phenomenal now.

Again, thanks for sharing this.