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Old 08-23-2018, 11:53 AM   #1
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flat tire when getting home BUT holds pressure?

2014 rockwood roo with original westlake super st205/75r14 load “c” tires (great tread and no rot and they will all be replaced end if season just for age) dual torflex axels. so i get home after trip and backing into driveway i see the rear tire was pretty much flat. didnt feel it.

put 50psi back into it and it holds pressure? why? can a tight turn backing up cause the tire to flex and loose pressure on tubeless radials?

thanks
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:59 AM   #2
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REplace with a different brand of tire.

Try the new Goodyear Endurance tires or many other brands that will be mentioned soon here in this thread.

I have 15-inch Hercules tires on my 5'ver and love them!
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:53 PM   #3
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I have never had a trailer tire lose air by a tight turn but I have heard of it. I had a mower that would lose air on a front tire by turning to tight and causing the tire to flex enough for the tire to lose air. It could have lower pressure even before the turn.
Air it up and watch it. I would be concerned of taking any longer distance trips with it.
Some of the turns backing up can put a lot of flex on a tire.
You said you will be replacing the tires at the end of the season because of age. Replace at the beginning of the season if it is storied between seasons.
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:53 PM   #4
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It might have been a tight turn, or are you 100% sure it wasn't low prior to that? You could have a small puncture in the tire somewhere. The wife's VW had a screw in one tire when I had it on a road trip once. Wouldn't leak air stationary, only when you pressed on the screw or as the tire rotated and the screw contacted the pavement. I have the same tires as you, they're ok, seem tough enough but a bit bouncy. Probably 15,000 kms on them, maybe more. I'll try Endurance next time around in a couple years.
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Old 08-23-2018, 02:18 PM   #5
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My first thought is a screw also, but there could have also been some grit trapped around the nipple in the valve stem allowing air to slowly seep out. If this was the case, you may have dislodged it when you aired it back up.
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Old 08-23-2018, 04:28 PM   #6
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I would REALLY get it inspected.

If it was low for a while, it may have internal damage that can cause a blowout.

I would take it to a tire shop to be inspected before throwing it back on.
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Old 08-23-2018, 04:37 PM   #7
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my old 84 wagon had that happen, but it was sudden and very apparent when it went flat in a turn. it was completely repeatable on left turns. it was a bent rim that caused it. replaced the rim and life was good.

check your valve stem cores (schrader valve). the tool is like $4 at walmart and includes some new cores. it could be leaking through the core. i have seen them loose a few times. also have heard of someone using that tool to loosen the valve a quarter turn on someone they didnt like, takes 8 hours for the tire to go flat and frustration to set in after filling it for the millionth time.

but your tires are 4 or more years old. check the date code. at this age and mileage your having problems, it sounds like its time to replace them and be worry free again.
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Old 08-23-2018, 05:05 PM   #8
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manufactured around match of 2013 so they are old. it is still pretty much holding air i will check again in a day. plan is not travel but this weekend i will switch it out for the ghetto white rim spare and take it to a shop to check rim/tire.
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Old 08-23-2018, 05:54 PM   #9
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I would say that there is something in the tire and that you have a slow leak. It may leak faster when driving.

We have a junk Michelin with a nail in it on a car that in a week or less will loose 6-8 lbs. The nail has nothing to do with the reason I think Michelin's are poor tires though.

A 2013 or older is due to be replaced on any brand trailer tire. Westlake's are good tires though.
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:10 PM   #10
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Did you check the valve stem. I've seen in the past where it would crack and open enough when spinning to leak a little but it would hold air when stopped. Also if the valve core was loose it could have leaked and when you aired it back up you tightened the cap enough to hold air.
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:26 PM   #11
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I'd pull the tire off and take it to a dealer that has a "Dunk Tank". They'll force it under water and watch for bubbles. You'd be amazed at what shows up when you check this way.

My guess is that the tire was leaking for a long time with a slow leak. You may have just noticed it when turning as the tire wasn't as firm as it would be when fully inflated.

Another argument for TPMS.
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:33 PM   #12
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also it was a used but extremely well taken care of rig we just bought this year and i did have it inspected and wheels rotated all was top notch.

i’ll check valve as well as pressure and report back.

we are going to do 4 new tires next season. question should we do a new spare as well or is it fine to keep the old one or best to get a new one there as well?
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Old 08-24-2018, 01:30 PM   #13
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When we had external tpms the stems would crack at rim. Wiggled the stem and air would leak out. BTW we have Michelin tire, 40k and going strong.
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Old 08-24-2018, 03:35 PM   #14
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A tire can lose pressure due to one of those curbs jumping out and biting it and sometimes really hard backing turns in tandem axle trailers on hard asphalt or concrete could cause it... but it still is from ill fitting tire to rim. A side load like that, other than a hard curb contact should cause air loss. But C load? I'd be looking to upgrade whether I had new tires or used tires on the trailer.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlh1957 View Post
A tire can lose pressure due to one of those curbs jumping out and biting it and sometimes really hard backing turns in tandem axle trailers on hard asphalt or concrete could cause it... but it still is from ill fitting tire to rim. A side load like that, other than a hard curb contact should cause air loss. But C load? I'd be looking to upgrade whether I had new tires or used tires on the trailer.
The only rims I'm aware of that being an issue with are those that have a 15 degree bead angle and the wheel/tire diameter designation will have a "xx.5" configuration. If you've ever changed a tire you know how much pressure is needed to separate the bead of a tire from the rim.

Unless there is a flaw in the tire, wheel, or valve stem, merely a hard turn or curb bump (unless it cause a puncture) will not cause air loss at the bead.

That said, steel and aluminum rims are prone to corrosion at the bead area. It can lead to slow leaks over time. Also can cause new tires to go flat if the installer doesn't clean the rim properly and in extreme cases doesn't apply some Bead Sealer compound (which is just a liquid rubber mixture in a can applied with the brush attached to the cap).

Really bad corrosion should mean wheel replacement but sometimes people are in a hurry or don't want to spend the money.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:40 PM   #16
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I’d go with nail/screw.
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfergiez View Post
I would REALLY get it inspected.

If it was low for a while, it may have internal damage that can cause a blowout.

I would take it to a tire shop to be inspected before throwing it back on.
Yes,,, unless you have a way to check under water ???
I would check it with 80 or 90 psi !!!
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