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Old 03-16-2020, 07:31 AM   #21
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I thank everybody for their replies. To clarify, yes, it was boots and springs that were replaced enmasse when the tech found multiple mis-fires using the scanner (not "wires" as I mis-stated). He showed me the scanner, so I saw the random mis-fires. Changing the boots/springs stopped the random mis-fires.

I went out with the tech for a test drive after the boot/spring replacement only to have the check engine light come on again and felt the misfiring. What the scanner didn't catch the first time was the cylinder #5 coil pack. Changing it fixed the problem.

Again thanks for the replies. Somewhat surprised that nobody suggested a waterpump replacement at xxxxx miles. I've known two rv'ers who got caught on the road when a waterpump went bad, both when their v10's had about 45.000 miles on them.
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Old 03-16-2020, 10:09 AM   #22
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http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo...rket=USA&div=f
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Old 03-16-2020, 10:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Somewhat surprised that nobody suggested a waterpump replacement at xxxxx miles. I've known two rv'ers who got caught on the road when a waterpump went bad, both when their v10's had about 45.000 miles on them.
Most of the time when a water pump starts leaking it is evidenced by a small decrease in the level at the surge tank due to a small leak through the "weep hole" on the bottom of the pump.

Not noticing that leak can lead to a catastrophic leak but it is not immediate.

So, watch the level of the coolant when the engine is cold by checking it every few days. If it begins dropping over time then a water pump may be the problem. If it starts dropping, look at the weep hole to see if there is moisture there.
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Old 03-16-2020, 10:22 AM   #24
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coil

coil to each plug and occasional failure. Fairly common
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:06 AM   #25
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I have a 2016 FR3 28ds. I currently have about 30k miles. I drive about 6kk per year from FL to the west coast (Seattle). Three years ago I was coming along I -10 in TX. Stopped for gas and when I went to start - nothing. A waited 8 hourers playing with her all the way through. Eventually got her to my dealer for some other work and they took her to the local Ford dealership. Nope can't find the problem. The problem continued of and on for another two years - never knowing when she would start or not. Went to another two Ford dealerships - three in total. Not a one could find the problem. Last year I talked to a shade tree mechanic and he put his code reader on it said yes there are three codes on her he was able to clear two of them and I never had another problem.
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:50 PM   #26
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Carry a spare coil and sparkplug. The parts or dirt cheap and they only take one wrench each to swap them out. Its a 10 minute job to replace a bad coil or bad plug.
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:52 PM   #27
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Carry a spare coil and sparkplug. The parts or dirt cheap and they only take one wrench each to swap them out. Its a 10 minute job to replace a bad coil or bad plug.
And a code reader so you know which one to replace.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:14 PM   #28
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Lightbulb Random Misfire = Bad Fuel

Guys, guys, guys....

To fix "random", you must think about what all cylinders have in common (hint: it's fuel).

Oh, and I betcha the OP had recently filled the tank before that happened.

Now, if it can be definitively traced only to a particular cylinder, sure, go ahead and throw some parts at it...
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:18 PM   #29
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I believe my Ford manual that's my bible.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:32 PM   #30
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150,000 miles on my '05 E350 V10.

Drivers front caliper at about 50,000 after ABS module went out.

Rebuilt ABS module at about 60k after driving 10k without ABS.

New alternator at about 85k (didn't need a new belt but I put one on).

Plugs at 100k service.

Not unusual to see 17mpg not towing - but I never go over 55.

11-12 towing Wolf Pup.

8-10mpg towing 12,000 lb boat.

If you get a code for a misfire, the first thing to do is swap COPs with another cylinder and see if the problem moves - if not, you know it's not the COP. There are many reasons for a misfire...
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:35 PM   #31
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Carry a spare coil and sparkplug. The parts or dirt cheap and they only take one wrench each to swap them out. Its a 10 minute job to replace a bad coil or bad plug.
On a 2000 F-150 with the 5.4 it's a 2 hr job (minimum) to change the plugs, as well as a pain in the rear, especially getting the 8mm bolt out of the coil pack so you can get to the plug. I can't count how many times I had to do this before making my first run down the track whenever I was at Gainseville Intl Raceway.

The reason the Ford V-10 is such a good motor, is because Ford took their time during development and testing before the engine became an available option. If memory serves, the first time the spark plugs are supposed to be replaced is at 100,000 miles.

Dodge didn't do this, I frequently saw V-10 Dodge pickups in repair bays, sometimes for 6 months or longer while they waited for repair parts to get to the dealership.

The other thing I noticed about the early V-10 Dodge pickups is that they didn't have enough horse power or torque to get them up a hill empty, let alone towing anything. I frequently passed them in my 93, 5.0L, F-150.

The advice about having at least one spare coil pack and spark plug in the toolbox is very good advice, if you keep a good set of tools in your RV they will save you money, especially if you can do the troubleshooting and repairs yourself.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:04 PM   #32
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It happens. My 2006 Sunseeker with the V10 had the check engine light come on 3 separate times in one season at about 25,000 miles going into the same approved Route 66 warranty repair shop to get fixed

The 3rd time I called my dealer who sold me the warranty plan asking wth, why has this happened 3 times.

Next thing I know I get a call from the Route 66 shop saying they had to take it into a Ford dealership to diagnose and repair. Turned out it was what they call a fuel rail, at least that's what I remember them saying. I have the invoice with the detail if anyone is interested.

It's the only thing under the hood that ever needed to be fixed. That was 12 years ago. About 53,000 miles now.

Chris
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:14 PM   #33
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Ford V10 did have early issues with plugs blowing out because not enough threads I had a 99 with the problem but I slipped by but others were not that lucky. I believe up to 03 or 04 it was fixed.After the fix the spark plug cover at end broke off while removing plug I carry the extraction tool for it is a must for the 3 valve V10. The tool isn't that pricey about 40.00 on E Bay. A great u tube thing to watch to see how to do it.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:56 PM   #34
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I have a 2004 v10 with 135,000 miles. I tow my 35’ Montana and after towing it 40,000 miles I still have no engine or drive train problems. I have changed plugs twice, serviced the tranny twice and run full synthetic oil. It is geared high, 3.73 so I always run out of over drive engine running about 2500 rpm at 58 mph. Still going very strong. Just returned from a 3000 mile trip without using any oil. Total average mpg 7.7.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:00 PM   #35
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A 2013 model will usually be based on a 2012 chassis check your door well ID plate. https://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/ford/2012-ford-e-450-owners-manual/
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:42 PM   #36
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Ex Ford dealer tech . That repair shop threw parts at it then had to troubleshoot it . Not the best way to do it . When the guys at the dealership did spark plug changes on these engines we always replaced the boots . They will fire through a pin hole in the boot causing a misfire code . This caused too many come backs . When you stretch the boot to remove it that caused a problem . If you get any misfire codes try changing the boot on the coil first . There are little chips that plug into the obd2 port then you use an app on your phone to scan the codes .I use an app called dash command on my iPhone . Also you can pull data from them like temps and fuel mileage .
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:52 PM   #37
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Solid replies on ignition...consider your oil...

No add ones from me on the ignition/coil recommendations, but I have taken several gas engines to 250k+ miles with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic at the weight recommended by manufacturer. Strongly encourage you to consider synthetics, nose to tail. My Cummins diesel is beyond that having lived on full synthetic oils.
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:58 PM   #38
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Where is the scanner plug?
Nothing under the dash. Would it be under the hump?

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Old 03-26-2020, 10:24 PM   #39
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Our 2014 Forester has the Ford with V10. The Ford is really a 2013. It has required a, to me, surprising amount of maintenance. We have about 40,000 miles on ours. I'm too lazy to go outside and look.
Biggest baddie was when the thermostat for the cooling fan failed when I was 400 miles from home on a Sunday. By keeping speed up to 65, flowing air kept the temperature down. The check engine light came on a couple times. Took it to nearest Ford truck dealership or truck service center. "Misfiring". That's all. Zeroed the code, did nothing else, paid the labor fee.
One of our sons had a Ford Excursion with the V10 and it was trouble free, right up to the moment he was T-boned and the vehicle destroyed. We have the dash cam video.

My GMC Suburban has over 220,000 miles on it. If it wasn't for the need to change the oil I'd never know what the engine looked like.
I'm not denigrating the engine, but it has taken more attention than any other truck we've owned. The fan failure was the most worrying. If not for having only a mile to drive at city speeds at the end, I'd have been stuck until Monday when I could call someone to look at it. No doubt they would have towed it. I have coverage, but, still.

Now I take it to a local and very good truck service center every spring before our first trip.
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Old 03-26-2020, 10:56 PM   #40
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Great Ford Truck forum https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...rchid=26386270
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