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Old 05-16-2022, 06:31 PM   #21
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ChrisParise nailed it. I experienced the same issues with my MBS. I found a good local TRUCK tire store and had them install the metal valve extenders and the problems went away. Discount Tire or another consumer tire store won't know what you're talking about and probably won't know where to get the extenders so find a good truck tire store. It's easy now to add air whenever needed and I don't have any issues. The TST TPMS has saved me at least one tire in the two years I've had them. I wouldn't drive without them now.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by poihths View Post
Per Bubbles' tip I looked for nuts/covers with indents on them and found none. It seems like the whole hubcap is one unit. When I grab the rear one using the cylindrical shape in the center, it seems like I can make the whole hubcap wiggle and bend.

So am I looking at something that I pry off under the edges?



One of these will allow the hub cap to be pried off. I use the 2nd longest and pry around the outer edge of the wheel & cap.

Also get a rubber mallet to use (hitting only on the rim of the hub cap a little at a time then moving around to avoid denting the cap) With the "wheel simulator aka hub cap removed you can then adjust the TPM sensor after replacing the batteries. You probably need longer valve stems or 120° stems to get the valve stems point out and to allow you to access the TPMS sensor. You may want to find someone with good car or hot rod background to help. Ask around the campfire if anyone considers themselves a "car guy".


Owning an RV requires a bit more mechanical knowledge than owning a modern car.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:38 PM   #23
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My valve stems are driving me nuts. Let me try to present a sane presentation of this insanity.

It's a 2018 Leprechaun FSS-31 built on Ford E450 chassis with Hankook Dynapro tires. The rig is new to me as of January. I'm new to RV's. This rig has dual rear wheels.

The dealer, at our request, installed a TSTTruck tire pressure monitor that uses sensors screwed onto the valve stems such that you can add air through the sensor. Each of the six valve stems have one of the sensors screwed on.

On the front tires, the hubcaps cover the sensors & valve stems so that I can't get the connector from my compressor to screw on. Trying to maneuver the stem to get access causes air to come hissing out. I think it's coming from the connection between the sensor and the stem--too much strain on that joint. It would work if it weren't for the sensors but I can't get the sensors off because the hubcaps are in the way and won't let the sensors turn.

On the back tires, I can get at the outer stems but not the inner ones. The inner stems are visible through the holes in the hubcaps but I can't get at them. I might be able to do some good if I could get at whatever hardware is between the inner and outer wheel but I can't reach around in between the tires because I can't get my hand through the gap between them.

I stupidly let the batteries on the monitor system go dead over the winter. It seems to have completely lost the installation setup. Restoring the setup requires touching each sensor to the CPU. That seems to require removing the sensors. As described above, in four of the six cases I can't get the sensors out.

So, at present, I can't measure tire pressures and I can't add air. That's neither good nor sustainable.

The only way I can see to attack this is to take the hubcaps off. That looks very dangerous to me. I don't have a hoist and even if I did I don't think I could out-wrestle the wheel if it tried to come off. Those gigantic wheel nuts were surely put on with pneumatic tools. I haven't been hale, hearty and 20 in 48 years; there's a quadruple bypass in my chest. I don't think I'm going to win that battle.

It looks to me like the only strategy available is to throw money at the problem.

Am I missing something? I am perfectly willing to erect a ritual pyre and sacrifice a spotless young ewe.

Another alternative is to get some SS hose extenders and attach the outer end to the center of the rear wheel cover

If you do this you MUST have the outer end of the hose solidly attached. Wheel Masters come with 90° brackets that you can pop rivet to the center hub.
and use non-flow thru sensors on the front. You really should only need to add a couple PSI once every 2nd or 3rd month.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:42 PM   #24
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Per TST Flowthru sensors are to be used only on metal valve stems. That makes sense, IMO. You don't want a pendulum for a valve stem. They will cause a failure.

Same goes for valve stem extensions. Don't use them, they will also fail. Use only metal valve stems. Have a competent Tire shop, that deals with dual tire system on a frequent basis. Have them align the appropriate metal valve stems so that they are 180° across from each other, on the dual rear tires. Makes life less stressful and it's easier to change the batteries in the sensors.

My hose extenders have worked well for almost 50,000 miles. The reason is I made sure the outer ends had a solid mount. Not a cheap rubber donuts.
See picture on previous post.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by MF5270 View Post
I'd go to a tire shop and have them install proper stems. Then go to Costco and have them converted to nitrogen.
Neither will be expensive.

Why bother with going from 78% N2 to 94% N2. Nitrogen is not a MAGIC gas.
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:12 PM   #26
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So the wheel simulators either just pop off with a flat blade bar or screw driver or a few fake lugs screw off and allow the simulator to come off
Probably just pry off as our 2008 does.
Second, make sure you have metal valve stems and install a set of Pacific DUALLY’s valve stem extensions available on Amazon, 135 degrees for outer duals and flexible valve stem hoses,braded, for the inner duals and 45 degrees for front tires.
Then put your sensors on out in the open for easy access for air.
That’s what I used less the sensors
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:24 PM   #27
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ChrisParise nailed it. I experienced the same issues with my MBS. I found a good local TRUCK tire store and had them install the metal valve extenders and the problems went away. Discount Tire or another consumer tire store won't know what you're talking about and probably won't know where to get the extenders so find a good truck tire store. It's easy now to add air whenever needed and I don't have any issues. The TST TPMS has saved me at least one tire in the two years I've had them. I wouldn't drive without them now.
Life is good that way!
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:06 PM   #28
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Dremel.



Really! You are suggesting cutting the wheel simulator?
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Old 05-17-2022, 04:16 AM   #29
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Really! You are suggesting cutting the wheel simulator?
Or maybe just the valve stem ?
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Old 05-17-2022, 06:45 AM   #30
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I’ve always used a claw hammer to pry the hubcaps off. Tight fit but each time you move the hammer about 30 degrees the opening gets bigger. I’ve never seen any scratching or other damage doing this.

I had a valve stem issue recently. See this thread:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...on-250270.html


Also check out these extenders. https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Extend...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:23 AM   #31
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Well, I'm impressed! This thread made the Forest River newsletter for the week (#420, week 19). We're famous! OK, now, monetization...hmm....
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:15 AM   #32
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We had very similar problem. We also had a problem that the "valve stem failed" 1st we have extensions on the stems along with TST. There is a support that the stem fits into and it attaches to the outer rim of the holes on the deep dish rims. We only had the leaking problem on the outer tire because it did not have the support. THe extensions bring the valve out to where it is easily reached.
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:25 AM   #33
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chuck

This is what we use on semi-trucks makes airing tires easy. being long makes it easy to reach inner valve stem and being straight you can get on valve stem no extra joint to leak at as a valve extension would.


https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-693-...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:42 PM   #34
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We have one of those and it works great but if you cant hold the stem it moves you cant get a reading.
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Old 05-17-2022, 06:17 PM   #35
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We have one of those and it works great but if you cant hold the stem it moves you cant get a reading.
I can shove it on valve stem groves inside it will hold it on threads of valve stem if you move it sideways never had a problem and I have aired 1000s of tires rubber and metal valve stems.
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Old 05-25-2022, 06:13 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by MevetS View Post
Per TST Flowthru sensors are to be used only on metal valve stems. That makes sense, IMO. You don't want a pendulum for a valve stem. They will cause a failure.

Same goes for valve stem extensions. Don't use them, they will also fail. Use only metal valve stems. Have a competent Tire shop, that deals with dual tire system on a frequent basis. Have them align the appropriate metal valve stems so that they are 180° across from each other, on the dual rear tires. Makes life less stressful and it's easier to change the batteries in the sensors.
I can verify the pendulum effect! We have the same type of sensors on our travel trailer tires. And yes, they bounced around and wore a spot on the rim. Now we have metal valve stems.. much nicer.
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