Grease for Lippert Axle

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by babock

Not sure what you are trying to say. It exceeds the axle specs.

I agree. Good grease

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by DirtDevil

Thanks, yes, I did check Mobil1, it was one that fell short of the 446F min dropping point as it specs out at 350F.

I had also read that some synthetic greases don't play well with non-synthetic, and cause the non-syn to liquefy.

I've never seen it liquefy from being mixed with the wrong type of grease. Usually if it liquefies then it can't tolerate the heat. What I have seen is the 2 greases will mix together and turn into a rubbery mass. So thick it had to be scraped out then washed several times with brake or parts cleaner.

[Poper]

So I’m getting ready last week to repack four wheels.
Not zerk (I’ve burned and destroyed an axle once).
At my local automotive supply (Auto Zone) I step up with cpl tubes Lucas #2 Red N Tacky.
Guy knew I was doing bearings cuz I ordered four new grease seals.
He says don’t use Lucas R&T suggested I was better off with Valvolene Red high performance high temperature.
Drop point 500 degrees. He didn’t say R&T was bad, just that the Valvoline was better rated temp and red color too.
Sells both, no obvious axe to grind just his two cents I’m passing on.
$5.49 per tube. I use a bearing packer that accepts the grease gun.
Breeze of a job, and rolling with confidence.
BTW I replaced all Chinese bearings with “National” brand American made cpl yrs ago.
Looked like new when inspected.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by flyflotrtim

There seems to be a diversity of opinion on the Lucas Red/Tacky

That's a fairly vague statement as there's a diversity of opinion on just about anything. I haven't seen any issues with red n tacky yet. I use it and haven't had issues.

[rdolan5]

I have used lucas red and tacky on my last 3 TT. Never a problem! Last 2 had zerk fittings on the end of the axles!

[Tundra 2014]

X-2 Brother Les.
Lucas Red N' Tacky. On a new trailer you will probable use a whole tube. Keep pumping and spinning wheel until grease comes out clean red. I believe it is more important to do it annually, than the specific brand of grease. Use quality grease and check for grease leaks.

[Poper]

Just read specs as stated on tube of R&T. 540 degrees F drop point.
I agree with all R&T is fine, auto parts guy said Valvoline rated better for temp.
I didn’t even question it.
Kinda like RV sales guy telling you to pull a fiver with 1/2 ton PU

[mike.t]

Originally Posted by babock

I would just change all the grease out anyway when changing grease.

Hand pack. Don't use the Laz-Lube

Pretty sure the OP said (via zerk, not a repack)

[babock]

Yes...and I was suggesting he not do it that way.

Originally Posted by mike.t

Pretty sure the OP said (via zerk, not a repack)

[DouglasReid]

I used this grease,it specs out even higher than Red N Tacky.....but would probably require a full repack (at least that is what I did)

https://www.vxb.com/X-Tra-Heavy-Duty...RoCOYIQAvD_BwE

It is also available in tubes for the EZ lube crowd, though I don't recommend that. I prefer to inspect the bearings every time I lube them. Doing so has saved me several times from a catastrophic failure.

[The Evil Twin]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

I've never seen it liquefy from being mixed with the wrong type of grease. Usually if it liquefies then it can't tolerate the heat. What I have seen is the 2 greases will mix together and turn into a rubbery mass. So thick it had to be scraped out then washed several times with brake or parts cleaner.

That is from incompatible thickeners. Basically two completely different greases for completely different uses.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

I used this grease,it specs out even higher than Red N Tacky.....but would probably require a full repack (at least that is what I did)

https://www.vxb.com/X-Tra-Heavy-Duty...RoCOYIQAvD_BwE

It is also available in tubes for the EZ lube crowd, though I don't recommend that. I prefer to inspect the bearings every time I lube them. Doing so has saved me several times from a catastrophic failure.

I just used that on a gooseneck trailer we had. I would have liked to see what the grease looked like after a good season but ended up selling it for a good price.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Lins

I just used that on a gooseneck trailer we had. I would have liked to see what the grease looked like after a good season but ended up selling it for a good price.

Well, I trust Lucas and it specs out better than even the Red N Tacky so time will tell.

[Dakota 1120]

I have used Mobile 1 for several years & called Mobile customer service to be assured it met/exceed the specs which it does.

Regardless of the grease used, and if lubing thru the E-Z lube zerk, follow the instructions and pump in the NEW grease until all the old grease has been expelled from around the zerk. The color change will be the proof the old grease has been expelled.

[mjmahurin]

Brother Les has posted the recommended procedure when greasing through the Zerk fittings. I still would recommend to be very cautious and not force the grease into the fitting. I thought I was doing a great job until the next time I pulled the bearings for a hand repack and discovered the rear seals on all four wheels had ruptured resulting in grease covered brake pads and hubs. Just under $900 for the labor, all new brakes and backing plates. Some lessons we learn the hard way.

[Joe M.]

I used the Lucas red Grease to repack my axles and haven't had any issues.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by mjmahurin

Brother Les has posted the recommended procedure when greasing through the Zerk fittings. I still would recommend to be very cautious and not force the grease into the fitting. I thought I was doing a great job until the next time I pulled the bearings for a hand repack and discovered the rear seals on all four wheels had ruptured resulting in grease covered brake pads and hubs. Just under $900 for the labor, all new brakes and backing plates. Some lessons we learn the hard way.

To be an RV owner it is always good to be a 'handyman' and 'like' to fix 'stuff'. One should never be surprised when an inner hub seal leaks. Over time they will break down. Doing everything 'correctly' when greasing at the zerk does not mean the seal will not leak because of another reason. I have seen several types of seals and if you go cheap on the inner seals, they are certain to not last long and leak. Pulling the hubs to hand re grease the bearings it is a must for replacing the inner seal with the best on the market. IF the brake pads need to be replaced because of the baked in grease, replacement them your self. Not sure why you put on new backing plates? Hose down with Brake Cleaner and paper towel all the grease off and hose down again. Safety first and always when you have your axle (at leaf spring) jacked up to work on your hubs and bearings.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

To be an RV owner it is always good to be a 'handyman' and 'like' to fix 'stuff'. One should never be surprised when an inner hub seal leaks. Over time they will break down. I have seen several types of seals and if you go cheap on the inner seals, they are certain to not last long and leak. Pulling the hubs to hand re grease the bearings it is a must for replacing the inner seal with the best on the market. IF the brake pads need to be replaced because of the baked in grease, replacement them your self. Not sure why you put on new backing plates? Hose down with Brake Cleaner and paper towel all the grease off and hose down again. Safety first and always when you have your axle (at leaf spring) jacked up to work on your hubs and bearings.

The reason you replace the whole backing plate is that by the time you replace the shoes and clean/replace other grease soaked parts, the price is around the same for a new backing plate without all the time spent cleaning.

A brand new Dexter 3500# backing plate is $65. New shoes are $35. If grease is impregnated into the magnet(which it usually is) $42.

I pull my wheels annuals so they get a new seal every year. Cheap insurance and probably about the same amount of money that some people spend on grease when they try to replace all the grease in the hub.

[Dakota 1120]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

To be an RV owner it is always good to be a 'handyman' and 'like' to fix 'stuff'. One should never be surprised when an inner hub seal leaks. Over time they will break down. Doing everything 'correctly' when greasing at the zerk does not mean the seal will not leak because of another reason. I have seen several types of seals and if you go cheap on the inner seals, they are certain to not last long and leak. Pulling the hubs to hand re grease the bearings it is a must for replacing the inner seal with the best on the market. IF the brake pads need to be replaced because of the baked in grease, replacement them your self. Not sure why you put on new backing plates? Hose down with Brake Cleaner and paper towel all the grease off and hose down again. Safety first and always when you have your axle (at leaf spring) jacked up to work on your hubs and bearings.

Totally agree with above. And anyone who would pay $900 for that job REALLY got taken big time on parts AND labor!!

Then again, because some are uneducated in such things, I've heard of people paying $700 for a tune up when all they needed was a new spark plug wire.

LOL

[wrfabus]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1