greased bearings (pulled hub, etc)

kgstakes · 12-31-2020, 07:54 PM

I have a GeoPro 19fbs 2020.

Background for question. Went on a trip and noticed that the passenger side hub was getting hot (hotter than driver side). Bought grease and seemed to help.

Now 12/31/2020 (today) I pulled the hub (passenger side) cleaned all old grease (that I put in on trip) regreased. In the process I was inspecting brakes and I adusted the brakes (actually messed with them would be a better way of putting it).

Put everything back together, and no brakes (passenger side). Lots of brakes on driver side (never messed with that side at all). Have adjusted, still nothing, adjusted again, again, again, decided the heck with it and decided I will work on them tomorrow.

Pull it down the road (was at my dad's shop) and only went a mile or so.

PROBLEM: Brakes are smoking - passinger side. But when I apply trailer control for brakes, only driver side locks up. Passenger side nothing but it's smoking so either grease seal blew? or trace grease on drum? or ???

Got home and I think I loosened the brakes up on passenger side but not sure.

Another question: Clockwise to tighten brakes ?? Counter clockwise to loosen??

Any help would be appreciated. If nothing else I will take it to a brake shop and have them work on it. Hate to, this should be something owner can do.

Thank you for your time and help.

TitanMike · 12-31-2020, 08:09 PM

When adjusting brakes it's customary to adjust with wheels off ground and rotating, until the brakes are tight enough to stop your turning. Then back off until wheel is just free to rotate with no drag. Between 5 and 10 clicks, depending on brake adjuster.

If you are adjusting and brakes don't seem to start dragging after several clicks you are going wrong direction.

Brake that doesnt lock up may just be too hot. Hot drum brakes fade and don't stop.

itsjb5 · 12-31-2020, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgstakes

I have a GeoPro 19fbs 2020.

Background for question. Went on a trip and noticed that the passenger side hub was getting hot (hotter than driver side). Bought grease and seemed to help.

Now 12/31/2020 (today) I pulled the hub (passenger side) cleaned all old grease (that I put in on trip) regreased. In the process I was inspecting brakes and I adusted the brakes (actually messed with them would be a better way of putting it).

Put everything back together, and no brakes (passenger side). Lots of brakes on driver side (never messed with that side at all). Have adjusted, still nothing, adjusted again, again, again, decided the heck with it and decided I will work on them tomorrow.

Pull it down the road (was at my dad's shop) and only went a mile or so.

PROBLEM: Brakes are smoking - passinger side. But when I apply trailer control for brakes, only driver side locks up. Passenger side nothing but it's smoking so either grease seal blew? or trace grease on drum? or ???

Got home and I think I loosened the brakes up on passenger side but not sure.

Another question: Clockwise to tighten brakes ?? Counter clockwise to loosen??

Any help would be appreciated. If nothing else I will take it to a brake shop and have them work on it. Hate to, this should be something owner can do.

Thank you for your time and help.

I

I think brakes to tight. When you get it apart pull the breakaway and see if you can stick a pair of pliers to the magnic.if no electrical problem. But if you raise that wheel it should spin

NavyLCDR · 12-31-2020, 08:17 PM

The 2020 Geo Pro 99% chance comes with Dexter "Nev-R-Adjust" brakes. It is much better to leave them too loose, no drag at all when the wheel is off the ground then to adjust them too tight - resistance felt when the wheel if off the ground. Then during repeated brake applications on a test drive, the brakes will adjust themselves. You want to set the controller to a higher than usual setting when doing the repeated brake applications for the self-adjusters to work.

There is much false information out there that suggests the brakes only adjust when backing up. That is not true for Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes. They adjust in the forward direction.

kgstakes · 12-31-2020, 08:38 PM

Thank you for all your help. When I was first "adjusting the brake" I was at my dad's place and only going a few feet. On gravel and the drivers side would lock up and the passenger side wouldn't.

I will jack wheel up and loosen brake (passenger side) and do a road test and see if Nev-R-Adjust brakes do the job for me. If not back to adjusting by hand.

Thank you for the advise about adjusting them with wheel off ground. That's probably brake adjusting 101 but I didn't know. I just adjusted and went a few feet and hit the controller to see if it was breaking.

Thanks again to everyone that replied. Greatly appreciate it.

NavyLCDR · 12-31-2020, 09:13 PM

You manually adjust brakes with the trailer jacked and wheels off the ground. You adjust the controller when moving. When moving the lever on the controller to the max braking position, the trailer brakes should lock up on a gravel road. On a paved road, they may or may not lock-up but you should feel a very definite drag. As the self adjusting bakes adjust, and the drums/shoes burnish, you will be able to reduce the setting on the controller.

TitanMike · 01-01-2021, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

The 2020 Geo Pro 99% chance comes with Dexter "Nev-R-Adjust" brakes. It is much better to leave them too loose, no drag at all when the wheel is off the ground then to adjust them too tight - resistance felt when the wheel if off the ground. Then during repeated brake applications on a test drive, the brakes will adjust themselves. You want to set the controller to a higher than usual setting when doing the repeated brake applications for the self-adjusters to work.

There is much false information out there that suggests the brakes only adjust when backing up. That is not true for Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes. They adjust in the forward direction.

True to a point. Electric brakes are actuated by a relatively small, square, cam that has limited ability to move the shoes any distance. Unlike "juice brakes" (hydraulic for the more modern minded) you can't "pump them up".

It's always advised to adjust till touching then back off slightly to avoid the risk of the shoes not touching the drum when braking. If no braking action, no movement in adjusting mechanism.

Of course if one is replacing brake shoes on self adjusting drum brakes they can save a lot of trouble by using the proper brake shoe setting gauge.

Most don't (unless working in a shop where the proper methods are enforced) because the tool runs from $60-$80. One side measures the ID of the drum and with that measurement locked in the other side of the tool allows the person to pre-adjust the shoes to the proper "diameter".

SailorSam20500 · 01-01-2021, 01:54 PM

I had the same problem as the OP when we first got this trailer. Had the dealer look at the wheel that was hot and they manually adjusted to loosen a bit. Trip to storage was okay, but next long trip, wheel was running hot again. I backed of the adjuster a bit and the self adjusting mechanism kept over tightening. I got disgusted and swapped my brakes to electric/hydraulic. Much better braking power on the trailer and no more hot hubs.

campers302 · 01-01-2021, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgstakes

Thank you for all your help. When I was first "adjusting the brake" I was at my dad's place and only going a few feet. On gravel and the drivers side would lock up and the passenger side wouldn't.

I will jack wheel up and loosen brake (passenger side) and do a road test and see if Nev-R-Adjust brakes do the job for me. If not back to adjusting by hand.

Thank you for the advise about adjusting them with wheel off ground. That's probably brake adjusting 101 but I didn't know. I just adjusted and went a few feet and hit the controller to see if it was breaking.

Thanks again to everyone that replied. Greatly appreciate it.

Waiting to here you findings. Best of luck.

kgstakes · 01-01-2021, 07:57 PM

Took all suggestions and do a few things on my own and here is how it sits at present. Pulled passenger side wheel and hub. Looked at brakes and manually adjusted them. I didn't have the measuring tool that others talk about so I use a tape measure (yeah sound crazy) but I had to figure out which way to turn the hub. Anyway, after doing that assembled everything and tested the brakes. All seemed good but it didn't seem to spin as free as I wanted when brakes were off. So, disassembled everything again, checked bearings, seemed large (back) bearing was not turning free enough. Clean bearing, that did the trick, repacked bearing, all is well. Put everything back together again and had wife come on and hit brake controller while I spun wheel. Brake worked and wheel spun free when no brake applied.

Went for a test drive, controller at 0.0 to see if drums were getting warm - they were cold (its only in the 30's here). Put the controller at 1.5 and tested brakes at a slow speed (25 mph). they seem to work. Went up to 2.0 and I could feel the brakes hit (30 mph).

So, decided to see what would happen at 45-50 mph. Put controller at 2.5-3.0 and applied brakes with foot pedal (truck and trailer brakes). Driver side locked up. Passenger side didn't.

Learned two things, one brake controller on new truck works better than old truck (both factory installed - in dash). Second, is I believe I need to adjust passenger side alittle tighter. Driver side drum was getting warm with all the testing but not hot like it's too tight. I believe it was doing all the braking.

I do feel comfortable towing the trailer as it is now as this is not the first trailer I've ever towed. I do know going down hills down shift, use care and all that stuff.

I don't know if I should just pull the trailer some more and see if the auto adjusters will even things out or just jack it up again and give the passenger side more. Maybe do the same with Driver side and back off a little.

What do you think I should do?? So far what I've done to fix the problem has helped. So thank you all for all your help and information.

NavyLCDR · 01-01-2021, 09:04 PM

I would let the auto adjuster work on the passenger side before doing anything. I wonder if your brake control wire is running straight from the junction box to the driver side and then hopping across to the passenger side and you are getting a loss of voltage from the driver side to the passenger side.

TitanMike · 01-01-2021, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

I would let the auto adjuster work on the passenger side before doing anything. I wonder if your brake control wire is running straight from the junction box to the driver side and then hopping across to the passenger side and you are getting a loss of voltage from the driver side to the passenger side.

If a single axle one magnet won't draw enough current for any significant voltage drop. Only draws 3-4 amp at max.

A better way to check magnets than merely energizing and seeing if a wrench or such will stick is to check actual current draw.

Clamp on type DC ammeters are inexpensive enough they're handy to have.

I have one of these and it's now the only multimeter I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N014USE..._wKInTY6Gc36S7

Only $35 on Amazon but well worth it.

itsjb5 · 01-01-2021, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

I would let the auto adjuster work on the passenger side before doing anything. I wonder if your brake control wire is running straight from the junction box to the driver side and then hopping across to the passenger side and you are getting a loss of voltage from the driver side to the passenger side.

I never did a travel trailer yet but all my construction and
all my inclosed trailers do not have self adjusters.Travel trailers have self adjusters??

itsjb5 · 01-01-2021, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgstakes

Took all suggestions and do a few things on my own and here is how it sits at present. Pulled passenger side wheel and hub. Looked at brakes and manually adjusted them. I didn't have the measuring tool that others talk about so I use a tape measure (yeah sound crazy) but I had to figure out which way to turn the hub. Anyway, after doing that assembled everything and tested the brakes. All seemed good but it didn't seem to spin as free as I wanted when brakes were off. So, disassembled everything again, checked bearings, seemed large (back) bearing was not turning free enough. Clean bearing, that did the trick, repacked bearing, all is well. Put everything back together again and had wife come on and hit brake controller while I spun wheel. Brake worked and wheel spun free when no brake applied.

Went for a test drive, controller at 0.0 to see if drums were getting warm - they were cold (its only in the 30's here). Put the controller at 1.5 and tested brakes at a slow speed (25 mph). they seem to work. Went up to 2.0 and I could feel the brakes hit (30 mph).

So, decided to see what would happen at 45-50 mph. Put controller at 2.5-3.0 and applied brakes with foot pedal (truck and trailer brakes). Driver side locked up. Passenger side didn't.

Learned two things, one brake controller on new truck works better than old truck (both factory installed - in dash). Second, is I believe I need to adjust passenger side alittle tighter. Driver side drum was getting warm with all the testing but not hot like it's too tight. I believe it was doing all the braking.

I do feel comfortable towing the trailer as it is now as this is not the first trailer I've ever towed. I do know going down hills down shift, use care and all that stuff.

I don't know if I should just pull the trailer some more and see if the auto adjusters will even things out or just jack it up again and give the passenger side more. Maybe do the same with Driver side and back off a little.

What do you think I should do?? So far what I've done to fix the problem has helped. So thank you all for all your help and information.

You had it on 2.5 -3. And driver's side locked.i say driver's side is to tight. Should never lock that low. 8-9-10 yes but not that low

kgstakes · 01-01-2021, 10:51 PM

Thank you for all your help everyone. I really appreciate it. I believe I will loosen brakes on drivers side and leave passenger side as is. Then let the auto adjusters do their job.

Question, I have seen videos and some say they adjust going forward some say in reverse. Which is it? Forward seems right but what do others say?

Again thanks again for all your help and quick response. New to this forum and my first TT but not my first trailer. Definitely my first trailer with auto adjusting brakes (actually never heard of them until this trailer).

Thanks again and I hope some day I can reply and help someone in return.

NavyLCDR · 01-02-2021, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgstakes

Question, I have seen videos and some say they adjust going forward some say in reverse. Which is it? Forward seems right but what do others say?

Dexter, the manufacturer, says they adjust forward and reverse.

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsjb5

I never did a travel trailer yet but all my construction and
all my inclosed trailers do not have self adjusters.Travel trailers have self adjusters??

If equipped with Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes, yes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsjb5

You had it on 2.5 -3. And driver's side locked.i say driver's side is to tight. Should never lock that low. 8-9-10 yes but not that low

Very good point. I missed that brakes were locking up on only 2.5-3, the is definitively too tight!

Jfkmk · 01-02-2021, 07:25 AM

Your trailer brakes should never lock up. If one side is locking up at a stop from 50 mph, it is a recipe for disaster. At this point I would take it to a reputable repair shop.

comfun1 · 01-02-2021, 08:53 AM

On a single axle trailer one brake working is extremely dangerous! Take it to a professional. I had this situation many years ago on my first trailer, a Shasta. Seems a component of one of the brakes was omitted. The first large sweeping curve I entered at 50mph and when I touched the brake the truck and trailer began to oscillate and I nearly lost it.

kgstakes · 01-02-2021, 05:55 PM

Alright, lets put this conversation to bed sorta speak.

I adjusted the drivers side brakes this morning and went for a drive. Set controller at 3.0 brakes came on slightly. Moved it up to 4.5 brakes hit harder but no lock up. set it at 6.0 brakes hit harder yet and still no lock up.

So, as far as I'm concerned my brake problem is fixed. I have absolutely full confidence in towing this trailer and will have more than enough braking power to stop.

Thanks to everyone that helped with this and I hope some day I can return the favor on someone elses project or problem.

Thanks again now put trailer back in barn til spring and everyone have a great 2021

NavyLCDR · 01-02-2021, 08:28 PM

I agree that I think you are good to go as well. Here's one last tip, though. After letting the adjusters work for a good spell, say 30 - 40 fairly decent stops or brake applications, try to find a gravel road. Set your brake controller on max and apply the trailer brakes with the lever. Both trailer wheels should lock up.

You may also like: