Help we're broke down

[Comanchecreek]

Find someone with a pressure bleeder to completely change the fluid in your system including the ABS module and all of the calipers. I agree with other posters that in your severe situation you need to go to a synthetic that can take more heat before boiling. Your plan for a heat shield is probably a good idea also.
I have seen where excessive heat build up in the calipers can cause brake fluid to vaporize and cause a loss of braking. Good luck on that one.
One other thing, sound like you would want to go ahead and get your new master cylinder from the dealer, rather than the aftermarket guys. More money, but very often they will improve the parts when problems like this arise, where the aftermarket guys will not because of cost.

[coyote2001]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

Find someone with a pressure bleeder to completely change the fluid in your system including the ABS module and all of the calipers. I agree with other posters that in your severe situation you need to go to a synthetic that can take more heat before boiling. Your plan for a heat shield is probably a good idea also.
I have seen where excessive heat build up in the calipers can cause brake fluid to vaporize and cause a loss of braking. Good luck on that one.
One other thing, sound like you would want to go ahead and get your new master cylinder from the dealer, rather than the aftermarket guys. More money, but very often they will improve the parts when problems like this arise, where the aftermarket guys will not because of cost.

[emoji106]

[DouglasReid]

X2 on the brake fluid change.

I bought a $35 tool at Harbor Freight that uses a compressor to pull a vacuum to pull the fluid through the system, one brake caliper at a time, after removing fluid from Master Cylinder and replacing with clean fresh fluid.

The fluid I pulled out was green from the algae growing in the water in the Dot 3 fluid.

I switched to Dot 4 fluid which does not have the same affinity for water that Dot 3 does. Dot 5 IS NOT compatible with Dot 3 systems.

If you have a power assist system for your brakes and power steering consider changing the fluid there too. Mine came out nearly black until it was purged. The brakes and steering response both improved after this was done.

Most people, regretfully, do not realize the importance of changing these fluids. They change the engine oil and think it is all done. Some regret their decision with failures that can easily and inexpensively be prevented.

My truck is on a two year schedule for the change of these fluids.

[coyote2001]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

X2 on the brake fluid change.



I bought a $35 tool at Harbor Freight that uses a compressor to pull a vacuum to pull the fluid through the system, one brake caliper at a time, after removing fluid from Master Cylinder and replacing with clean fresh fluid.



The fluid I pulled out was green from the algae growing in the water in the Dot 3 fluid.



I switched to Dot 4 fluid which does not have the same affinity for water that Dot 3 does. Dot 5 IS NOT compatible with Dot 3 systems.



If you have a power assist system for your brakes and power steering consider changing the fluid there too. Mine came out nearly black until it was purged. The brakes and steering response both improved after this was done.



Most people, regretfully, do not realize the importance of changing these fluids. They change the engine oil and think it is all done. Some regret their decision with failures that can easily and inexpensively be prevented.



My truck is on a two year schedule for the change of these fluids.

[emoji106]

[Iwannacamp]

I think the aftermarket parts manufacturers are(or used to be ahead) of OEM parts design. They make a living selling parts and have to fix any problems along the way. Countless examples there. I have been out of this business for 11 years and things do change, but many times the OEM and aftermarket replacements are exactly the same...except in price and availability. I just bought a starter for my TV(failed cause of me) and OEM was over $700 and a new aftermarket was $95-150 depending on where purchased. Guess where I got it?

Buy what you are happy with and be safe.

[m35a2]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

X2 on the brake fluid change.

I bought a $35 tool at Harbor Freight that uses a compressor to pull a vacuum to pull the fluid through the system, one brake caliper at a time, after removing fluid from Master Cylinder and replacing with clean fresh fluid.

The fluid I pulled out was green from the algae growing in the water in the Dot 3 fluid.

I switched to Dot 4 fluid which does not have the same affinity for water that Dot 3 does. Dot 5 IS NOT compatible with Dot 3 systems.

If you have a power assist system for your brakes and power steering consider changing the fluid there too. Mine came out nearly black until it was purged. The brakes and steering response both improved after this was done.

Most people, regretfully, do not realize the importance of changing these fluids. They change the engine oil and think it is all done. Some regret their decision with failures that can easily and inexpensively be prevented.

My truck is on a two year schedule for the change of these fluids.

On my deuce I use a pressurizer that I made from a garden sprayer and an extra master cylinder cap. Fill the sprayer with fluid, pump it up to 15 pounds of pressure or so, then bleed at the wheel cylinders until I see purple fluid. (The deuce uses dot 5)

Cost me maybe 15 or 20 bucks for the parts but man is it ever worth it! Not sure if it will work the same on a modern master cylinder though.

[Comanchecreek]

Originally Posted by m35a2

On my deuce I use a pressurizer that I made from a garden sprayer and an extra master cylinder cap. Fill the sprayer with fluid, pump it up to 15 pounds of pressure or so, then bleed at the wheel cylinders until I see purple fluid. (The deuce uses dot 5)

Cost me maybe 15 or 20 bucks for the parts but man is it ever worth it! Not sure if it will work the same on a modern master cylinder though.

Clever Rube version of my pressure bleeder. Pressure vessel is like a small water pressure tank used on a well system. Rubber bladder, air one side fluid the other. Plug compressor to it and set at 15 pounds. Came with a box load of adapters, some work some don't, have to adapt sometimes, but once hooked up it's a one man bleed job. I use it on most ABS systems without issue. Guess there are some really new late model setups you have to energize the ABS controller, but haven't run into that yet. One man bleeding. I bet your setup would work on almost anything. I bought this thing from Harbor Freight years ago. They don't sell anything this sophisticated anymore. Too bad.