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Old 07-05-2017, 08:43 PM   #1
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Help we're broke down

1999 George Town 303 7.4L 454 need part number for master cylinder. Auto zone and advance auto keeps giving me the wrong part. Help!! C30 Chassie
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:50 PM   #2
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1999 George Town 303 7.4L 454 need part number for master cylinder. Auto zone and advance auto keeps giving me the wrong part. Help!! C30 Chassie
Aw, sorry to hear that! While I can't fix a master cylinder, I can buy a 6-pack and play cards while we wait!! :-)
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:53 PM   #3
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What about a GM dealer or NAPA they keep Stock Cars running!
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:07 PM   #4
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There should only be two choices for that unit. Vacuum boost or hydraulic boost unless you have Disc brakes front AND rear then it could get hard to match.
Here is the O'Reily parts page with both Master Cylinders.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=1999&make=GMC
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Old 07-05-2017, 10:13 PM   #5
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We just came out of a dead stop for about 30 mins from a accident e-way was shut down we pull into gas station to refuel then as soon as I started to roll the breaks went to the floor
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Old 07-05-2017, 11:36 PM   #6
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For something as critical as brakes, contact a chevy dealer and tell them it is a motor home. They can try to locate for you at local dealers.

I can try to get GM part number in the morning
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:48 AM   #7
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Ok many thanks for all the help. We read some forms and found out the heat from the engine from being idle in traffic made it boil over we came back today put the old one back on and it works great !! I'm Going to put a heat shield on it when we get home.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:02 AM   #8
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Hmmm 25+ years in parts and never heard of that. Be careful and allow plenty of room for stops for a while. Make sure you look at the wheels(inside of tire/rim) for fluid. Brake fluid feels warm on your skin if you feel of it. Could be a proportioning issue. I would replace master when you can...if it "went to the floor and it's old...it is trash". It will bypass in time from contaminants in the cylinder and by-passing. Be safe. I would also upgrade to DOT4 fluid...DOT5 is silicone and not an easy change.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:10 AM   #9
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Hmmm 25+ years in parts and never heard of that. Be careful and allow plenty of room for stops for a while. Make sure you look at the wheels(inside of tire/rim) for fluid. Brake fluid feels warm on your skin if you feel of it. Could be a proportioning issue. I would replace master when you can...if it "went to the floor and it's old...it is trash". It will bypass in time from contaminants in the cylinder and by-passing. Be safe. I would also upgrade to DOT4 fluid...DOT5 is silicone and not an easy change.


We cleaned the bowls out they had a thin layer of some black sludge in the bottom and put dot 4 back in. Breaks seem to work better than before.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:27 AM   #10
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Brake fluid attracts water and can boil, when that happens the pedal will go to the floor.
It happened to me with a 1994 bounder on F53 chassis, high air temperature stop and go hilly curvy roads do to expressway being closed. I suspect mine was from the brakes being too hot but there is no real way to be sure where it was and air bubbles any where and the pedal will go to the floor.
The F53 recommends annual brake fluid change, it was probably over 10 years old and was never done, I did it every other year after that.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:48 AM   #11
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Change brake fluid to a DOT 4 synthetic. That will help with heat
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:27 AM   #12
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Yes

Yes it seem it boiled out of the cap
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:26 PM   #13
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Need help broke down

The mechanic got mine from NAPA. No problem
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:57 PM   #14
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The mechanic got mine from NAPA. No problem


[emoji106]advance auto told me they have to order it from the factory. I'm replacing it when we get home.
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Old 07-06-2017, 01:11 PM   #15
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Ohhh one other thing... flush with new fluid when replacing. I.E. change the brake fluid
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Old 07-06-2017, 01:23 PM   #16
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Brake fluid really needs to be COMPLETELY FLUSHED once a year if you want all the brake components to last. Super heating while going down hill and then cooling while going flat or uphill will vacuum in outside air. Warm outside air has lots of moisture in it. The moisture is absorbed by the brake fluid and dispersed throughout the system. Moisture causes rust and then components fail. Usually one caliper will go bad and the other three will need to take up the slack. Extra heat on the three builds up and BAM, NO BRAKES.
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:25 PM   #17
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Had brakes fail on 1997 P30 chassis disc brakes going down mountain in Wyoming had to stop at bottom for road work when we pulled away fortunately on level ground and I touched brake it went to floor. Got them cooled down and when we got home started researching brake fluid, there is all different wet boiling points for brake fluid. The Highest wet point boiling point fluid that I could find is Castrol Racing Brake Fluid, (wet boiling point of 519 deg F) it is pricy at $65 to $75 per quart and you will ned to completely purge lines and cylinders for it to work properly.
But as one fellow said you would not want that to be your last thought as you went off the mountain-- if only I had paid a little more for the good stuff--
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:46 PM   #18
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regular brake fluid attracts water (Hydroscopic), not sure if the special stuff like castrol does. for the most part in non-racing application unless the fluid is very fresh the boiling point doesn't matter as it is well over the 212 degrees for water to boil and the steam is air space in the line and no brakes.

from wikipedia : Glycol-ether (DOT 3, 4, and 5.1) brake fluids are hygroscopic (water absorbing), which means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. ... Wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume.
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:53 PM   #19
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Brake fluid really needs to be COMPLETELY FLUSHED once a year if you want all the brake components to last. Super heating while going down hill and then cooling while going flat or uphill will vacuum in outside air. Warm outside air has lots of moisture in it. The moisture is absorbed by the brake fluid and dispersed throughout the system. Moisture causes rust and then components fail. Usually one caliper will go bad and the other three will need to take up the slack. Extra heat on the three builds up and BAM, NO BRAKES.



[emoji106]
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Old 07-06-2017, 05:33 PM   #20
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i had a 2001 winnebago with workhorse 8.1L and had to read number off of part on motorhome. part stores can probably find it then. sometimes mine was listed as gmc c3500hd with "wrecker package". "wrecker package" is key to match brake parts for motorhome. Oreilly's will deliver for free. "ultra rv products" is very good also
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