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07-28-2018, 05:35 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 4
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Hot Wheel
Ok community. Need some help. I’ve looked for the answer here already but haven’t found it, so if there’s an existing thread that contains some advice just point me in the direction.
I have a 2014 Grey Wolf 26BH. On a recent trip, VA to OH, I noticed one wheel (drivers side front) was hot to the touch, but the other 3 were fine. Consulted with a great mobile RV repair guy who allowed me to help him repack the bearings so I could do them all myself at home, which I have since done.
So all new bearings, races and grease all around, and on my current trip, VA to TN, the wheel is still crazy hot whenever I stop for gas, food, whatever. But just the one. The same one.
Based on info in this forum, I took everything apart and adjusted the brakes all the way to locked, then backed them off 5 clicks or so till the wheel spins free AND IT STILL GETS HOT!
I’m figuring it has to be brake related but can’t figure it out. Any advice is appreciated.
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07-29-2018, 08:21 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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If the bearings are set correctly I would agree it the brake causing the problem on that wheel seems like it is not retracting properly after application. I think I would lift that side of the trailer spin the wheel and have someone apply the brake and see if I could feel any drag after that, then I would pull the wheel and check/clean every part of the brake (completely remove) then reinstall and check.
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07-29-2018, 08:56 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Alberta - East of the Rockies, West of the Rest
Posts: 1,785
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Good thing you are paying attention, a hot wheel can lead to tires over heating and .....
I would also do what SeaDog is suggesting, you may have to repeat the 'stationary brake check' several times, it can happen that they fail to release only occasionally. Sometimes a good dose of brake cleaner does the trick.
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07-29-2018, 09:17 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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I'd suggest getting an IR temp gun and using it to tell just how hot the wheel is and if it is hotter near the center or toward the outside of the hub. At least that way you'll know where to start looking. You'll need to check it pretty quickly after stopping before the hub has time to 'soak' and equalize the temp throughout.
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07-29-2018, 08:23 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 4
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Update: took SeaDogs advice, got that wheel in the air and gave her a spin. Brakes work, but do not release fully. Grinding sounds....
So I disassembled it and the other wheel on the same side to see if I could compare the two and get any further clues.
This is the adjustment gear from the problem wheel:
Notice how the little metal bar does not engage with the teeth of the gear on the hot wheel. This prohibits me from adjusting the brakes and the brakes from adjusting themselves, so I think that when I brake, the brakes are not fully retracting, causing friction and therefore heat.
Is there a way to adjust the play/tension/orientation of the plate, or is this telling me I’m ready for a whole new assembly?
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07-29-2018, 08:31 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,934
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What kind(brand) of brakes are those. I'm not saying anything is wrong, but I just haven't seen the ones that the adjuster is inside the spring..and was curious. Always wanting to learn.
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07-30-2018, 12:46 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
What kind(brand) of brakes are those. I'm not saying anything is wrong, but I just haven't seen the ones that the adjuster is inside the spring..and was curious. Always wanting to learn.
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These are the typical auto-adjust/nev-r-adjust/some-other-fancy-name brakes. Manual adjust brakes have the spring under the adjuster.
The little plate is actually a lever that is actuated via the thin steel cable that runs diagonally between the brake shoes. It is not always engaged to the adjuster wheel. It will catch the adjuster when there is enough wear on the brake shoes to make the lever move far enough back.
I can't really tell from the pic if the lever is in contact with the adjuster wheel. It needs to have a little pressure onto the adjuster to snap behind a tooth when moved back far enough.
If the adjuster doesn't work it would not cause the brake to drag more, rather the gap between the shoes and the drum gets larger over time.
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07-30-2018, 08:14 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Can you take a picture of the entire brake plate? I'll get a picture of an old one I have that's grease soaked but assembled correctly and you can compare how they're assembled.
Here's how it should look assembled.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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08-13-2018, 05:24 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 4
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Greetings Gang, sorry for the hiatus. Summer schedules, kids, work, life, etc. Just returned from our most recent trip to Indiana and back, and I'm still having the same issue. Bama Rambler thanks for the tip, I was able to determine for sure that the heat is coming from the hub, and mine assembled looks just like yours. It gets hot enough to fry an egg (not that you would but you could...)! I'm raising the white flag on this one, so I took it to a trusted trailer shop locally today, and will update the thread with my/their findings in case it can help someone else out. Thanks for all the great suggestions and feed back.
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08-13-2018, 06:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,694
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Do you mean the center of the hub by the bearings? Or out by the edge? If the center it sounds like you have a bearing issue.
How much is it dragging after releasing the brakes? Hard to turn? Or just slight sounds?
Have you checked the other brakes? Is it possible that is the only one working?
After stopping a few times what is the temperature of all the drums in the same location?
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