How hot should bearings run

[feerobk]

I have a 2009 flagstaff 26rls and just had the bearings & races replaced & repacked and we took a short trip this weekend so i checked the hubs just by touch and they seemed to hot getting a temp. gun to check next time out how hot should they be?

[jd-ford-hd]

Originally Posted by feerobk

I have a 2009 flagstaff 26rls and just had the bearings & races replaced & repacked and we took a short trip this weekend so i checked the hubs just by touch and they seemed to hot getting a temp. gun to check next time out how hot should they be?

If the hub is too hot to touch, it is too hot, period. It should feel very warm. I am a working man with pretty tough hands and I use the 5 count method. Grab the cast part of the hub, not the dust cap, count to five. If you can't do that it is too hot.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by feerobk

I have a 2009 flagstaff 26rls and just had the bearings & races replaced & repacked and we took a short trip this weekend so i checked the hubs just by touch and they seemed to hot getting a temp. gun to check next time out how hot should they be?

My hubs are cool to cold to the touch after 5 hours at 65 MPH.

It has been my experience that most RV techs have no idea what an UltraLube hub is. They hand pack the bearings like my great grandpa did when bearings lasted 20,000 miles. Most also overtighten the hub nuts.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ures-9666.html

104 posts of why that is so.

[TURBS]

Can't always go by that.
What if he was on the brakes pretty heavy just before stopping?
That would heat up the hubs tremendously!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Can't always go by that.
What if he was on the brakes pretty heavy just before stopping?
That would heat up the hubs tremendously!

I don't think he was worried about hot hubs due to a panic stop.
I have been wrong before though.

[feerobk]

No hard stop before i checked the hub I don't think I could have done a 5 count on one of they all the hubs were what I would call very warm run only less than a hour 55 or less if the hub nuts are to tight will that make them run hot if the nuts are to tight if i back them off a hole should they move when i push and pull on the wheel?

[DAISY BOYKIN]

Can't believe HERK said that!

[feerobk]

I meant to say should the hub move if i push pull on the tire

[Herk7769]

Here is the procedure for the wheel nuts.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by DAISY BOYKIN

Can't believe HERK said that!

Hard to believe, ain't it.

It is the "Pierre the Bridgebuilder" problem.

[Goomph]

I found out that the front hubs were much hotter then the rear ones after a normal drive .... Regardless of braking, driving conditions, they were always hotter. I got one of those temperature guns and measered the rears around 39-42 I believe and fronts around 60 or 65.

Opened the hubs, replaced all bearings, adjusted the brakes (The rears had almost no wear so rear brakes were not working) and subsequent measurements IIRC was around 50F or so for all four hubs. That was after a normal day of driving, braking, and of course braking to stop I recall my buddies in another forum talking about 55F or so being normal. Yup, we all have the infrared temperature guns Takes only a minute to see what is going with the hubs on when you stop for a coffee break.

I hope this helps ....

[fonzie]

Originally Posted by Goomph

I found out that the front hubs were much hotter then the rear ones after a normal drive .... Regardless of braking, driving conditions, they were always hotter. I got one of those temperature guns and measered the rears around 39-42 I believe and fronts around 60 or 65.

Opened the hubs, replaced all bearings, adjusted the brakes (The rears had almost no wear so rear brakes were not working) and subsequent measurements IIRC was around 50F or so for all four hubs. That was after a normal day of driving, braking, and of course braking to stop I recall my buddies in another forum talking about 55F or so being normal. Yup, we all have the infrared temperature guns Takes only a minute to see what is going with the hubs on when you stop for a coffee break.

I hope this helps ....

You must be talking degrees celcius for above?

[feerobk]

Guys thanks for the feed back I will check all the hub nuts to be sure they are not to tight I was hoping someone could give me a temp rang to keep a eye on Goomp are you talking Celsius ?

[sherdep]

Originally Posted by feerobk

I meant to say should the hub move if i push pull on the tire

no it shouldnt move in or out

How I adjust them is remove the cotter pin - tighten the nut just enough where you have zero play when you give the wheel a tug.
I also lift the wheel off the ground so it makes it easier to get that feel
then reinstall the cotter pin and put the metal cover back on and then the rubber cover

might be a good idea to pump some grease into the bearings at the same time

[sherdep]

I also do the feel thing on the hub - it should be warm to the touch but not too hot that you cant hold it for a few seconds.

I know everyone has a way of doing bearings so my way may not be right for someone else so keep that in mind.

I have replaced bearings and races in the hubs of a previous trailer - if you do that and the hubs are still getting to warm then I would replace the hub and bearings as a complete package

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by feerobk

No hard stop before i checked the hub I don't think I could have done a 5 count on one of they all the hubs were what I would call very warm run only less than a hour 55 or less if the hub nuts are to tight will that make them run hot if the nuts are to tight if i back them off a hole should they move when i push and pull on the wheel?

I usually finger tighten the castellated nut while spinning the wheel and when the nut can't be turned by hand, I check by grabbing the top & bottom of the tire and see if there I can feel any movement in or out at the top or bottom. If no movement and a hole lines up, I install the cotter pin, if not and a hole does not line up, I will back the nut off til a hole lines up and check for play again, if there is play, I will tighten to the next hole and install cotter pin.

[TURBS]

Tighten tight then back off 1/4 turn

[dimurrrw]

I seem to recall that if the trailer is low in the nose, more weight is placed on the front axle. The result might be a temperature differential.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by feerobk

Guys thanks for the feed back I will check all the hub nuts to be sure they are not to tight I was hoping someone could give me a temp rang to keep a eye on Goomp are you talking Celsius ?

I was quite serious. Ambient temperature after a few hours on the road.
They should not even get warm.

[prof_fate]

55c is about 130F - hot like a hot shower would be or perhaps a cup of coffee.
Braking will heat the drums and if that is part of the hub then it will also get warmer. I check mine (by feel) at rest stops - and I just used the brakes to get from 60 to 0mph and then to park, so there is some heat build up, but it shouldn't be a big amount (unless you just descended some large hill of course)
It's best to take readings now and then and unless you get somethign that boils water there's no need to immediatly take action. Most hubs are black and perhaps one side of your trailer was in the sun for the past hour and the other in the shade - that can make a 10-20F temp difference. If it's raining (or your splashing in puddles) that can cool the hubs below 'normal'.

As for packing with grease, yes, and use good grease. I prefer waterproof grease (used on boat trailers that get dunked when putting puts in/out of the water).

You do not want to pump grease in till you see it come out someplace - ever. You just blew the seal when you did that. Very bad as now dirt/moisture can get in. The grease on the seal, even if you wipe it off, collects dirt and dust which acts like sandpaper on the seal lip and will eat it away making it useless. This may have been standard practice 40 years ago but things have changed - most cars these days have sealed bearings (and ball joints and tie rod ends, etc) and they last 2-3 times longer than the old 'lube em till you see the grease come out' kinds. Thats mostly because there's no 'grease monkey' blowing their seals to allow dirt and moisture in.

You don't change your engine oil because it's failing to lubricate - you change it because it's dirty with combustion by products and moisture (from condensation). Same for grease - unless overheated or contaminated does not wear out.