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Old 09-08-2021, 03:03 PM   #1
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I found a set of GY, now how to get the trailer jacked up

So, after much searching i found a set of GY endurance tires for our rig, we are fulltiming in a campground right now and cant really/dont want to pull out and drag our home 35 min away to a tire ahop that will likely bend our axles... what would you all suggest for proper jacking and blocking of the trailer/axles to remove one side at a time (or all 4 at once)

We are on a pretty rough gravel site that has some ruts from being wet a lot. I was hoping to jack with either a bottle jack or scissor jack mounted to a large piece of wood for stability and to keep it from sinking into the ground, and i may have access to concrete blocks to block things up (have to check with the campground owners first)
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Old 09-08-2021, 09:01 PM   #2
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You should be able to easily do one side at a time but use jack stands for safety. I keep a set in my trailer. If your not comfortable doing two at once, do one. Even a buffoon can do one at a time. Safety first bro!
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Old 09-08-2021, 09:18 PM   #3
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Any jack will do. I prefer bottle jacks.

Your cribbing is an issue. Be careful. This deal here kills a lot of folks. Get nice wood. Professionals use jack stands.

We crib our levelers with pre cut 2 x 8x8. Carefully stacked.

Minimize the travel of the jacks piston.

Cinder blocks are strong enough with the holes looking up. The other way they have minimal strength. Break rather easy.
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Old 09-08-2021, 09:27 PM   #4
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Do you have the six point level up system? If you do just lift one side off the ground at a time. You only need to lift until tires are off the ground. Since you will be removing both tires put some Jack stands under the frame.
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by dalford View Post
Do you have the six point level up system? If you do just lift one side off the ground at a time. You only need to lift until tires are off the ground. Since you will be removing both tires put some Jack stands under the frame.
I wish we did but our crusader lite doesnt have many of the options... no auto level, no wiring for a second ac, etc...

Im not entirely sure i would trust jackstands to not sink in tereibly while i was gone, as the site is pretty soft... i had wondered about lowering the drum or axle right onto the concrete blocks once the wheel is removed?
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:26 AM   #6
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Concrete blocks is what I used. I don't think cinder blocks are even made any more. I lifted with a bottle jack right behind the spring mounts you might want to use 2 jacks one front one back of the mounts since you have a 5er.
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:45 AM   #7
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I'd do only one side at a time. After you determine if the CG allows it, use two bottle jacks on top of wood boards and under each spring perch. Add two jackstands (for safety) on top of wood boards, under the frame fore and aft of the spring shackle mounts. Remove the wheels and try to even up the weight at all four jack points until you remount the wheels.
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Old 09-09-2021, 01:30 PM   #8
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If you haven't done it yet here is another way that I have done for years.

If you can move the rig forward or backward about 5 or 6 feet this works with no jacks. Raise all the stabilizers then decide which way you will move the rig. Lets say backwards. Break loose the lugs on the 2 front wheels. DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF just loosen them. Now you will need wood, leveling pads or 2 or those tire change thing that I can't remember the name of. Back the trailer up on top of that stuff so the rear tires are about 4 to 6 inches off the ground. Disconnect TV and use the tongue jack to get front tires just off the ground if they are not.
REMEMBER THAT NO ONE SHOULD BE GOING IN AND OUT OF THE RIG WHILE THIS IS TAKING PLACE.
Take the 2 front wheels in and get new tires installed and balanced. Return an install the new front tires on the rig. The lugs just need to be snug, you will torque them all at the end.

The next part I've seen done 2 different ways. One is to just use the tongue jack to get wood under the front wheels. IMHO I do not like that way. I hook up the TV. Put wood or pads or whatever so the new front tires roll up on them to about the same elevation as the rear wheels were. Break loose the lugs on the rear wheels. DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Disconnect the TV and use the tongue jack to lower the front of the rig to remove the wood or whatever is under the rear wheels. Take off the 2 rear wheels and have the tires changed and balanced. Install 2 rear wheels on rig, snug all the lugs. Hook up TV slowly and carefully back the rig off of the wood or whatever you used.

NOW IS THE TIME TO TORQUE ALL THE LUGS.

Get rig back where you want it, level it and your good to go.

A couple of things I did not mention before. You need to be able to use some form of wheel chocks on which ever wheels are down to keep things from rolling.
Yes you have to connect and disconnect the TV several times.
And yes you need enough wood, pads or whatever to do both sides at the same time.
And again NO ONE SHOULD BE GOING IN AND OUT OF THE RIG WHILE THIS IS TAKING PLACE.

I have used this method many times for tire change, wheel bearing inspect and repack, brake inspect. Don't have to worry about someone jacking on the axles and bending them. Don't have to think about if I can jack on the frame safely. The one set of tires can easily handle the weight for an hour or so, your not going down the highway.

I hope this helps. It was shown to me by someone that helped me to get out of a jam so my hope is it helps someone else.
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Old 09-09-2021, 01:40 PM   #9
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One bottle jack is enough

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Originally Posted by phillyg View Post
I'd do only one side at a time. After you determine if the CG allows it, use two bottle jacks on top of wood boards and under each spring perch. Add two jackstands (for safety) on top of wood boards, under the frame fore and aft of the spring shackle mounts. Remove the wheels and try to even up the weight at all four jack points until you remount the wheels.
One bottle jack is enough. Jack up at one point, place the jack stand, lower the trailer onto the stand. Move the jack to the second point, jack up, place the second jack stand.

If you are able, you could hook up the tow vehicle to make sure the trailer doesn't move. If you need the tow vehicle to carry wheels to the tire store, be sure to chock the wheels on the other side--four chocks, both sides of both wheels.
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Old 09-09-2021, 01:48 PM   #10
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I didn't have jack stands, so I just installed my spare tire after removing the first one.

For the second one, I just left the bottle jack under the axle where I'd jacked it up (at the u-bolts). It didn't retract much when I got back but I still gave it a pump or two to put the new tire back on.

Got that side put back on and then did the other in the same way.
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Old 09-09-2021, 02:24 PM   #11
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I have used Chuck324 method. Find it safe and do two at once.
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:32 PM   #12
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Trailer aid

This is what I used when I had GY installed on my camper. Took one tire off then put spare in it place and then ran spare up on trailer aid and took off other tire. Trailer Aid "Plus Tandem Tire Changing Ramp - The Fast and Easy Way to Change a Trailer's Flat Tire - Holds up to 15,000 lbs- Features a 5.5-Inch Lift - Yellow (21002)
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Trailer Aid "Plus Tandem Tire Changing Ramp - The Fast and Easy Way to Change a Trailer's Flat Tire - Holds up to 15,000 lbs- Features a 5.5-Inch Lift - Yellow (21002)
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:34 PM   #13
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I have used Chuck324 method. Find it safe and do two at once.
I think the model he listed in his signature is a 5th wheel. Will Chucks method still work?
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:40 PM   #14
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how to jack up trailer to change tire

This is what Chuck324 is talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T...1219690&sr=8-1
Buy 2 so you can change 2 tires at one time!
I keep one in the trailer all the time!
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Old 09-09-2021, 04:20 PM   #15
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This is what Chuck324 is talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T...1219690&sr=8-1
Buy 2 so you can change 2 tires at one time!
I keep one in the trailer all the time!
I bought the "plus" for extra height and it still was not enough to lift one wheel off the ground. Maybe cause I have spread axle's?

I used a bottle jack, way easier. I put it as close to the wheel I could on axle and did one wheel at a time. Not sure if you have torsion axle's or leaf spring. I have leaf springs.
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:17 PM   #16
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Dumb questions

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Originally Posted by Bogieboy View Post
So, after much searching i found a set of GY endurance tires for our rig, we are fulltiming in a campground right now
First dumb question: Since it's well-known that trailer tires don't usually wear out; they age out (beyond five years they become unsafe due to material degradation). So why would you buy new tires if you are full-timing at a fixed site? It would make more sense to wait until you are ready to get on the road.
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...to a tire shop that will likely bend our axles.
Second dumb question: Why are you so confident that the tire shop would bungle the job? Last time we got trailer tires the wheels were removed and replaced outside the building and we would have been free to watch and direct if needed.
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:06 PM   #17
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It sounds like you are very hesitant to even attempt this. Why not let a pro change them for you?
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Old 09-10-2021, 03:54 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
First dumb question: Since it's well-known that trailer tires don't usually wear out; they age out (beyond five years they become unsafe due to material degradation). So why would you buy new tires if you are full-timing at a fixed site? It would make more sense to wait until you are ready to get on the road.

Second dumb question: Why are you so confident that the tire shop would bungle the job? Last time we got trailer tires the wheels were removed and replaced outside the building and we would have been free to watch and direct if needed.
Stupid answers for you...LOL we are going to be headed south foe the winter, and the tires on our rig are early 2016 powerking towmax. As for the not trusting the tire shop, you didnt meet the yokels that will be doing the work... if i had access to a tire machine, i would be doing this all myself...
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Old 09-10-2021, 03:55 AM   #19
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It sounds like you are very hesitant to even attempt this. Why not let a pro change them for you?
I am not hesitant about this at all, i am a mechanic, just not used to working on 10k# teailers in gravel, and dont want to damage our home...
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Old 09-10-2021, 04:50 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by djemgoss View Post
This is what Chuck324 is talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T...1219690&sr=8-1
Buy 2 so you can change 2 tires at one time!
I keep one in the trailer all the time!
Such plastic ramps do work in many applications if they provide sufficient lift. Wooden blocks work as well or better depending on individual preference. Also, wooden blocks can be used with some similar plastic ramp devices (but maybe not the one shown) to increase their lift.

Many or most commercial services use wooden blocks for roadside assistance. I've never seen them use such plastic ramps and would be surprised if I ever did.
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