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08-23-2020, 09:07 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 40
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Lippert Super Lube HELP
I have the Lippert Super Lube (same as EZ Lube). I have read and called Lippert and all says to hand pack wheel bearings. So as I was taking out the inner bearing by using a dowel and mallet I damaged a spring like seal. I called Lippert and they didn't know or understand what I was describing. I sent them a picture but I think it was to late for them to respond. Can somebody out there HELP? I have never sent an attachment or picture, I need help doing this also.
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08-23-2020, 12:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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This is the "garter spring" that is part of the double lipped seal used on EZ-Lube axles.
An EZ-Lube seal should fit and can be purchased on Amazon or at e-trailer.com (among other sites).
Just make sure the seal is for an EZ-Lube application, a double lipped seal, and not just a single lip seal for other type axles.
If you have a good caliper it would be a good idea to measure both the ID of the seal surface on the hub and the OD of the seal surface on the spindle before ordering. Just to be sure.
BTW, Auto Parts stores may also have seals and can look up using numbers on old seals. Just make sure there are two sealing lips and the spring on the back of the rubber portion.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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08-23-2020, 01:28 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 40
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Thank you that's a big help. Don't have calipers.
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08-23-2020, 01:55 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: At home
Posts: 1,438
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I had to wait until someone actually had an answer before replying. At first glance I thought it was a cookie cutter shaped sorta like Alabama. I had to enlarge it to see it was done sort of spring. And no, I’m not a very good cook, either.
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08-23-2020, 01:58 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWood422
I had to wait until someone actually had an answer before replying. At first glance I thought it was a cookie cutter shaped sorta like Alabama. I had to enlarge it to see it was done sort of spring. And no, I’m not a very good cook, either.
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When it comes to cookies I eat them regardless of shape.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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08-23-2020, 02:01 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ar-Newbee
Thank you that's a big help. Don't have calipers.
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Just take old seal to an Auto Parts store (Napa may be best for help) and they can look up seal number in Cross Reference.
Most NAPA stores have more experienced help where others tend to have more turnover at their retail counters. If going to an O'Reilly store see if you can speak with the Commercial Desk. They are the ones dealing with repair shops and are usually more experienced.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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08-23-2020, 02:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,050
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Go to a commercial bearing dealer. Never seen a decent size town that doesnt have one. take hub with you .
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08-23-2020, 02:52 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Just take old seal to an Auto Parts store (Napa may be best for help) and they can look up seal number in Cross Reference.
Most NAPA stores have more experienced help where others tend to have more turnover at their retail counters. If going to an O'Reilly store see if you can speak with the Commercial Desk. They are the ones dealing with repair shops and are usually more experienced.
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Last time I went into a NAPA, they wanted $26.89 for one tail/brake/turn bulb for my 2006 Mustang. Drove a mile farther to AutoZone and got a two-pack of the same Sylvania bulb for 8 bucks.
I find NAPA to be great for potentially having some oddball part on the shelf - like the axle retainer bolt on that same car - but I fully expect to pay a massive premium for the convenience. For commodity stuff that I can get anywhere, I drive right past the NAPA that's 1/4 mile from my house, to go to AZ or O'Reillys or Cost Less.
__________________
-Qwkynuf
2003 F150 Supercab 4x4, tow pkg, 3.55 gears
2020 Flagstaff Micro Lite 21DS
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08-24-2020, 05:39 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 40
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Thanks everyone. Took my parts to Napa and I did find out that it goes inside the seal. Lippert sent me a drawing of the seal and it is a Garter Spring. I will be ordering today from there web site. They come in a 2 or 10 pack. I'm going to order two 2 packs for $14.00 plus $8.00 for shipping.
Thanks again this form is always helpful.
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08-24-2020, 07:29 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1,014
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Did do remove the rear seal first or try to drive the rear bearing out through it?
The seal has to be removed first always.
Any time you're repacking at the very least I'd plan on installing new rear seals, it's difficult to remove the seal without damaging it, especially since they are typically installed with high temperature RTV between the outer metal seal housing and hub.
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08-24-2020, 09:15 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 40
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Yes I was removing the rear seal and that's when I found that I damaged the Garter Spring. I'm ordering new seals right now. I guess Live and Learn.
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08-24-2020, 10:23 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tundra
Did do remove the rear seal first or try to drive the rear bearing out through it?
The seal has to be removed first always.
Any time you're repacking at the very least I'd plan on installing new rear seals, it's difficult to remove the seal without damaging it, especially since they are typically installed with high temperature RTV between the outer metal seal housing and hub.
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It's been a common ptactice for years to just drive out bearing and seal. Most common method has been to temove hub from spindle, replace nut on threads, then put hub back on spindle and let hang on spindle with nut behind rear bearing. A couple of yanks usually pulls bearing and seal out of hub.
Seal is supposed to be replaced whenever removed from hub so if it's trashed, so what.
Seal pullers didn't exist for years and the early ones were either too much trouble or often left grooves in seal mounting surfaces in the hub.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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08-24-2020, 11:36 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
It's been a common ptactice for years to just drive out bearing and seal. Most common method has been to temove hub from spindle, replace nut on threads, then put hub back on spindle and let hang on spindle with nut behind rear bearing. A couple of yanks usually pulls bearing and seal out of hub.
Seal is supposed to be replaced whenever removed from hub so if it's trashed, so what.
Seal pullers didn't exist for years and the early ones were either too much trouble or often left grooves in seal mounting surfaces in the hub.
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When I made a living doing brakes on rear-wheel drive cars, we would do something similar when removing the front drums/rotors - remove the cotter pin and castle nut, slide the drum/rotor out about an inch to pop out the outer bearing, reinstall just the castle nut, carefully guide the nut through the outer race, and then yank the drum/rotor off, leaving the nut, inner bearing, and seal dangling from the spindle.
It wasn't pretty, but it sure was quick and effective!
__________________
-Qwkynuf
2003 F150 Supercab 4x4, tow pkg, 3.55 gears
2020 Flagstaff Micro Lite 21DS
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08-24-2020, 03:31 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1,014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
It's been a common ptactice for years to just drive out bearing and seal. Most common method has been to temove hub from spindle, replace nut on threads, then put hub back on spindle and let hang on spindle with nut behind rear bearing. A couple of yanks usually pulls bearing and seal out of hub.
Seal is supposed to be replaced whenever removed from hub so if it's trashed, so what.
Seal pullers didn't exist for years and the early ones were either too much trouble or often left grooves in seal mounting surfaces in the hub.
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My point to the OP was, did he try to drive the bearing out through the seal with the intent that the seal was going to be reused, because that's how it reads to me.
As far as common practice.....call me old fashion because I've always used a seal puller on my vehicles.
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