Lock Nuts on the Axle

[BobbyYou]

I am new owner of a 2009 FR Wildcat 25RL. The previous owner said he never checked the wheel bearings so I thought I would. They are sealed JRM4249-JRM4210XD-TIMKEN bearing with a lock nut that holds the hub/brake drum on. I sent FR support the info from the axle tag, and he reached out Lippert who sent me info on totally different bearings. I found the bearings online, got 2 of them replaced. I just tightened the lock nuts until the wheel felt tight but still spun free. Did anyone have any better insight? I attached a picture of the axle tag.

[GolfingDave]

Are you following the procedures in the manual?

https://support.lci1.com/spring-axles

Never mind. Missed the part where they sent you the info.

[Mokurt]

Might try contacting Timken.
These are not the same as the two piece sets and may require a different preload torque.

[Twinboat]

How tight was the nut when you removed it ?

[BobbyYou]

They were tight. When I get the bearings for the other side I am going to try to use the torque wrench to take them off and see if I can get an idea. Not a great method but it might give me an idea.

[Mike134]

If it was a Dexter axle with roller bearings you'd "seat" the newly greased bearings by torquing the nut to 50 ft lbs. while rotating the drum then back off to "just loose" without rotating the drum, then snug to finger tight and slip in the copper pin. I have 22,000 miles on my bearings with no issue using that method.

Page 56 covers the method
https://www.dexteraxle.com/DexLightSM

[FlaNative]

We had our electric brakes upgraded to disc brakes in 2020. The bearings were Timken, but they are manufactured in China. The installer had to discard one bearing due to the sloppiness in the outer race. Got a replacement, also Timken, also made in China. So far so good.
We love the extra stopping power; never go back to electric brakes!

[BobbyYou]

I saw a brake kit by DeeMaxx. How are yours activated if not electric?

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by BobbyYou

I saw a brake kit by DeeMaxx. How are yours activated if not electric?

Disk brakes on a trailer use an electrically powered hydraulic pump. Pump is activated using the same brake system as the electric drums. My F-150 OEM brake controller has a separate selection for Electric/Hydraulic brakes.


I got my brake set from Performance Trailer Braking. Great people to work with. Best upgrade I've made to my trailer.

[FlaNative]

We have a 5th wheel so we're pulling our rig with a 3/4 ton diesel. The hydraulic pump is located on the rig itself, and our brake controller is a Prodigy P3 (we have a 2005 GMC Sierra) unit that is designed for either electric brakes or electric over hydraulic for disc brakes.
Totally agree with SailorSam20500: Absolutely the best upgrade for brakes on TT's and 5th Wheel rvs! I would hope that the rv manufacturers would install the disc brakes while building the rigs. I too used Performance Trailer Braking to install the disc brakes. Highly recommend them.

[Twinboat]

Originally Posted by Mike134

If it was a Dexter axle with roller bearings you'd "seat" the newly greased bearings by torquing the nut to 50 ft lbs. while rotating the drum then back off to "just loose" without rotating the drum, then snug to finger tight and slip in the copper pin. I have 22,000 miles on my bearings with no issue using that method.

Page 56 covers the method
https://www.dexteraxle.com/DexLightSM

But it's not.

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by Twinboat

But it's not.

yea but it's a roller bearing so you seat them all the same.

Pg 13 of the Lippert manual

https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/wp-c...nce-Manual.pdf

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by Mike134

yea but it's a roller bearing so you seat them all the same.

Pg 13 of the Lippert manual

https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/wp-c...nce-Manual.pdf

Do you?

The part number that the OP referenced is not a typical separate bearing-and-race type that we are used to seeing (and was common on the front axle of rear wheel drive cars since forever). I suspect that is why they are asking. I have never seen one like that on a trailer axle.

Here's a link to that part number: https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-h...m4210xd-timken

And a picture:

[BobbyYou]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

Do you?

The part number that the OP referenced is not a typical separate bearing-and-race type that we are used to seeing (and was common on the front axle of rear wheel drive cars since forever). I suspect that is why they are asking. I have never seen one like that on a trailer axle.

Here's a link to that part number: https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-h...m4210xd-timken

And a picture: Attachment 302806

Lippert says they discontinued them in 2010 and recommend putting new axles. I think the bearings are original but not sure. I am going to just replace the bearings with new. I've never seen lock nuts used to hold the hubs on though.
Thanks for all the tips.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by BobbyYou

I've never seen lock nuts used to hold the hubs on though.

I would get new lock nuts also. Good practice. If not mistaken when I was fooling around with my trucks spacers for its springs, once I removed the nuts they had lost their locking ability so it can happen.

[BobbyYou]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

I would get new lock nuts also. Good practice. If not mistaken when I was fooling around with my trucks spacers for its springs, once I removed the nuts they had lost their locking ability so it can happen.

Yes I've been told that. The place I got two of the bearings from wanted more for the lock nuts and snap ring than the bearing. So I thought I would get the nuts local, but having trouble finding any that big.

[BobbyYou]

I finally got my lock nuts and the place I ordered two of my bearings from told me they should be tightened to 145 - 155 Ft lb. They were a lot tighter than I was going to tighten them to. When I took a couple off I used a torque wrench and it was over a 200lbs.

[BobbyYou]

Originally Posted by BobbyYou

Yes I've been told that. The place I got two of the bearings from wanted more for the lock nuts and snap ring than the bearing. So I thought I would get the nuts local, but having trouble finding any that big.

here is the bearing

[Mokurt]

On that type of bearing the torgue pressure is only on the inner (solid)part of the race unlike a 2 piece tapered bearing.

Thats why the torque value can be higher.