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Old 04-16-2019, 05:36 PM   #41
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Also a great time when you pull the bearings to take them to a supplier and get a set of timkins to put in instead. The originals are undoubtedly Chinese.......save those back as spares and know for sure you have the best right off.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:19 PM   #42
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I've been following this thread and have pretty much decided that instead of just packing my bearings I will replace them with Timkins. Interestingly enough, I printed the list of Dexter recommended greases that 5picker posted, and while searching Timkin bearings I found Timkin red bearing grease, (on Amazon, of course) but noticed it's not on Dexter's list. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Good bearings, lousy grease?
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:48 PM   #43
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I've been following this thread and have pretty much decided that instead of just packing my bearings I will replace them with Timkins. Interestingly enough, I printed the list of Dexter recommended greases that 5picker posted, and while searching Timkin bearings I found Timkin red bearing grease, (on Amazon, of course) but noticed it's not on Dexter's list. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Good bearings, lousy grease?
It is NLGI #2 Lithium so likely just fine. I wonder who makes it for them. It's kinda pricey at least for the tube I saw. I just buy the Mobil 1 by the case which brings the per tube price down to $6.

Probably more important that you are actually doing regular maintenance on a yearly schedule that Dexter recommends that what brand grease you are buying.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:28 PM   #44
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Also a great time when you pull the bearings to take them to a supplier and get a set of timkins to put in instead. The originals are undoubtedly Chinese.......save those back as spares and know for sure you have the best right off.
I was always taught if you replace the bearing, you also replace the race at the same time. Not hard to do, but if you have never done it before, go find a youtube video. You have to drive it out and then drive the new race in. Pretty easy to get it, but it takes an inexpensive tool to drive a new one in without damaging it (Harbor Freight, Amazon etc....).

For probably 75% of the trailers out there, they have tandem 3500 lb axles. Most Dexter and Lippert 3500 lb axles will use the same parts which are as follows:
They are about $8.50 each for a set (a set of #4 *AND* #17 will do one hub, so to do all 4 hubs is about $68 plus the grease seals)

Rear grease seal is a double lip 1.72" ID x 2.565" OD
Interchangeable grease seal part numbers are:
  • LCI# 122087
  • Dexter 010-019-00
  • Transcom #171255TF
  • National 473336
  • NOK AD2548EO
Timken seal on Amazon is just shy of $9 each so $36 for 4, brings your total for a set of 4 grease seals, 4 Timken #4 bearing/race and 4 Timken #17 bearing/race sets to a grand total of $104 to replace them all (assuming you have tandem 3,500lb axles).
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:12 PM   #45
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I was always taught if you replace the bearing, you also replace the race at the same time. Not hard to do, but if you have never done it before, go find a youtube video. You have to drive it out and then drive the new race in. Pretty easy to get it, but it takes an inexpensive tool to drive a new one in without damaging it (Harbor Freight, Amazon etc....).

For probably 75% of the trailers out there, they have tandem 3500 lb axles. Most Dexter and Lippert 3500 lb axles will use the same parts which are as follows:
They are about $8.50 each for a set (a set of #4 *AND* #17 will do one hub, so to do all 4 hubs is about $68 plus the grease seals)

Rear grease seal is a double lip 1.72" ID x 2.565" OD
Interchangeable grease seal part numbers are:
  • LCI# 122087
  • Dexter 010-019-00
  • Transcom #171255TF
  • National 473336
  • NOK AD2548EO
Timken seal on Amazon is just shy of $9 each so $36 for 4, brings your total for a set of 4 grease seals, 4 Timken #4 bearing/race and 4 Timken #17 bearing/race sets to a grand total of $104 to replace them all (assuming you have tandem 3,500lb axles).

Thank you VERY much for saving me (and probably at least a few others) all the work of looking this information up.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:17 PM   #46
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Thank you VERY much for saving me (and probably at least a few others) all the work of looking this information up.
I would think your trailer has different axles so will have different bearings.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:35 PM   #47
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I would think your trailer has different axles so will have different bearings.

Thanks, I won't know for sure until I get the cover off so I can get inside and get to the manuals. Still, it was very thoughtful of dward51 to post the info... but that's what you folks are really good at here, helping others. Much appreciated.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:33 PM   #48
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Thanks, I won't know for sure until I get the cover off so I can get inside and get to the manuals. Still, it was very thoughtful of dward51 to post the info... but that's what you folks are really good at here, helping others. Much appreciated.
A 2018 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8311WS will *NOT* use the 3500 lb axles I referenced, but may still use those bearing & race sets. You have heavier rated axles so the bearing may be different. Also I think you may have torsion axles. The process is the same, just likely have different part needs. The thread sort of bounced around and I posted a "general" bearing set info and should have looked at your specific model also. The bearing/race info may be still be correct as those are common in even some of the larger axles, but we need to verify what model axle you actually have.

Look for a sticker on the back of the axle underneath the trailer. That will tell you what you have. Then you can look up the correct part numbers. The sticker is probably facing towards the back of the trailer. You may have to crawl under the trailer to read it or use a camera with a little bit of a zoom to take a photo and read it that way.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:02 AM   #49
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A 2018 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8311WS will *NOT* use the 3500 lb axles I referenced, but may still use those bearing & race sets. You have heavier rated axles so the bearing may be different. Also I think you may have torsion axles. The process is the same, just likely have different part needs. The thread sort of bounced around and I posted a "general" bearing set info and should have looked at your specific model also. The bearing/race info may be still be correct as those are common in even some of the larger axles, but we need to verify what model axle you actually have.

Look for a sticker on the back of the axle underneath the trailer. That will tell you what you have. Then you can look up the correct part numbers. The sticker is probably facing towards the back of the trailer. You may have to crawl under the trailer to read it or use a camera with a little bit of a zoom to take a photo and read it that way.



Thanks again. For some reason torsion axles sounds really familiar... pretty sure I have a sticker on the TT that says that. I'll check later today. She's already up on blocks so I've got a jump on pulling the wheels.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:21 AM   #50
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It is NLGI #2 Lithium so likely just fine. I wonder who makes it for them. It's kinda pricey at least for the tube I saw. I just buy the Mobil 1 by the case which brings the per tube price down to $6.

Probably more important that you are actually doing regular maintenance on a yearly schedule that Dexter recommends that what brand grease you are buying.

You are correct, it is kinda pricey. Ten bucks for a tub that's 425 grams, just shy of 15 ounces.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:26 AM   #51
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For the Canadians in the Crowd.

Tested for Canada Canadian Tire Motomaster Grease. Used by many on all types of bearings.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...0840p.html#srp
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:08 PM   #52
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I've been following this thread and have pretty much decided that instead of just packing my bearings I will replace them with Timkins.
Good call! Some say US-made Timken bearings are hard to find. I went to a local industrial bearing supplier and that's all they had. They ordered them and they arrived in a day or two.

When you remove the old bearings, there will be numbers on them. If unsure what to buy in advance, you could wait until you've got them out to verify or if buying locally, take the old ones into them.

I'd also get quality replacement seals (double lip) instead of generic ones. Getting bearings out of drums can be a challenge because they don't give you much of a lip to get a drift onto these days. I used about a 12" length of 1.5" (or might have been 2") heavy wall mild steel tubing to provide enough contact with the edge of the bearing cones. Yes, keep at least one set of bearings as a spare.

I was at a frame & axle shop once and the owner showed me Chinese bearings out of a TT that were spalled. He def. had an opinion on Chinese bearing quality...
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:26 PM   #53
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Good call! Some say US-made Timken bearings are hard to find. I went to a local industrial bearing supplier and that's all they had. They ordered them and they arrived in a day or two.

When you remove the old bearings, there will be numbers on them. If unsure what to buy in advance, you could wait until you've got them out to verify or if buying locally, take the old ones into them.

I'd also get quality replacement seals (double lip) instead of generic ones. Getting bearings out of drums can be a challenge because they don't give you much of a lip to get a drift onto these days. I used about a 12" length of 1.5" (or might have been 2") heavy wall mild steel tubing to provide enough contact with the edge of the bearing cones. Yes, keep at least one set of bearings as a spare.

I was at a frame & axle shop once and the owner showed me Chinese bearings out of a TT that were spalled. He def. had an opinion on Chinese bearing quality...

More excellent info, thank you!
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:35 PM   #54
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"The good red stuff" means something different to many.

For me it means Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2 and is on Dexter's list of approved greases.

For others it means Lucas Red N Tacky or Lithoplex Red MP #2.

Here is Dexter's recommendations...

Recommended Wheel Bearing
Lubrication Specifications
Grease
Thickener Type Lithium Complex
Dropping Point 215°C (419°F) Minimum
Consistency NLGI No. 2
Additives EP, Corrosion & Oxidation Inhibitors
Viscosity Index 80 Minimum
Approved Grease Sources
Chem Arrow Arrow 2282
Chevron Texaco Chevron Ulti-Plex Grease EP #2
Texaco Starplex Moly MPGM #2
Citgo Lithoplex MP #2
Lithoplex CM #2
Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2
ConocoPhillips/
76 Lubricants/Kendall
Multiplex RED #2
L427 Super Blu Grease
Dexter Company Lithoplex Red MP #2
Exxon/Mobil Company Ronex, MP
Mobilith AW 2
Mobil I Synthetic Grease
Fuchs Renolit Uniwrl 2
Great Plains Lubricants Lithium Complex EP #2
Oil Center Research
of Oklahoma
Liquid-O-Ring No, 167L
Pennzoil-Quaker State
Company
Synthetic Red Grease
Royal Mfg. Company Royal 98 Lithium Complex EP #2
Shell Gadus S3 V220C
Gadus S5 V220
Rotella Heavy Duty Lithium
Complex #2
Valvoline Valvoline Multi-Purpose GM
Valvoline DuraBlend
Unless I am off base... It does NOT say you can mix all these. Just acceptable. I am pretty sure the factory uses the minimum spec grease available. You should buy the BEST you can afford... IE synthetic. YMMV
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:12 PM   #55
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Good call! Some say US-made Timken bearings are hard to find. I went to a local industrial bearing supplier and that's all they had. They ordered them and they arrived in a day or two.
It is my understanding the bearings from Timken sold in the USA are still USA made. However not all their seals are USA made. They are still Timken seals and made to the exact same ridged requirements and quality inspections as USA seals. The last ones I bought on Amazon (sold by Amazon) were Taiwan seals, but true Timken. Timken also has plants in India and some other countries, but again they are owned by Timken International (same quality & quality control).

"Real" Timken bearings are all serialized with a tracking number and individual bar code on each box and never sold loose outside a box. They also have other counterfeit protections on the boxes. There are Timken clones out there on eBay and the like, but the ones marked by Amazon (sold and shipped by Amazon, not some 3rd party via Amazon) are real Timken bearings.

You can also usually find or order real Timkens at the local NAPA store. They will be more expensive there though.

One thing I have noticed about the Taiwan Timken seals is they are marked "Made in Taiwan" not "China". It is my understanding that no Timken products are currently marked made in "China" (no real ones at least).

-----------------------

As to the lithium greases. It is also my understanding as long as the grease is NLGI grade #2 and Lithium based, they can be mixed and used in trailer/automotive bearings. The problems are when you mix different base types as not all the other bases are compatible with Lithium. Most of the synthetic bases are. But that being said, I personally purge all the old grease from the bearings, spindle, on each re-lube and go 100% fresh. I also don't use the "EZ-Lube" as I like eyes on the bearing conditions every so often. Damage and burned bearings do not show up when pumping in via the EZ-Lube fitting.

I'm currently using 100% synthetic "Green Grease" in all my trailer bearings (2 boats, 1 utility and the travel trailer). If you look at the detailed specifications it exceeds the ratings in all categories for even the Lucas Red n Tacky and Lucas HD that is so popular. Being a full synthetic, it's not cheap. But I have 2 boats and since I use it in them for it was a "might as well" since it exceeds the specs for the other popular travel trailer lubes.

Green Grease is reported to be 100% compatible with lithium based greases, but again I would clean all the old grease off and choose not to mix. But in a pinch you could in an emergency.
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:21 PM   #56
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I had to get a bearing from NAPA and when I took it out of the box it said
Timken---Made in Taiwan
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:57 PM   #57
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It will take over 1 full tube of grease to fill all 4 hubs. There is a lot of space between the inner and outer bearings. I packed all 4 sets by hand, installed hubs, and as Titan Mike said, slowly pumped in grease while turning. Emptied first tube and wasn't done with 3rd hub.
If you have packed the bearings by hand, why are you pumping in more grease?

I was taught to thoroughly pack bearings by hand - press the grease into the spaces between the rollers inside the cage. You should see grease on both sides of each roller where it protrudes from the cage. Filling the cage was optional. Then smear a thin film on the races. I used to add a thin film on the inside of the hub just to prevent rust/corrosion on my boat trailers. But the only grease that matters is the grease between the roller and the race and between the roller and the inner bearing hub.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:29 PM   #58
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True that the grease in the bearing itself is vital but, it doesn't stay there forever. It will work it's way out over time from heat and spinning. If the cavity is full there is less chance of the bearing becoming dry.
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:04 AM   #59
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This has really been a great thread with great info. Timkin are just hard to beat. Whether their made in the U.S. or Taiwan they're going to be top quality made to exacting tolerance. Axle bearings are not something to skimp on. For the little extra it gives peace of mind. I would switch the bearings, etc. out automatically on even a new trailer just to make sure I have the best.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:59 AM   #60
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Recommended greases and replacing bearings

So now I'm thinking, if we replace our bearings, races, and seals, shouldn't we use a grease that's recommended by the bearing manufacturer, and forget Dexter or Lippert's recommendations?
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