My Review Of Endurance Tires

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by Teetime

If the 205/75R14 Goodyear Endurance Tire says 65PSI Cold, then the 205/75R14 Goodyear Endurance Tire sets at 65PSI Cold! Where's the Tylenol!

Except that isn’t the recommended pressure, that is the pressure needed for max load. If you had the same size tires with the OEM being load range C and the new tires being load range D then you could run the new tires at 50PSI to have the same load rating as the OEM tires even though the new tires say “XXXX LB max at 65 PSI.”

The tire manufacturers have no idea what load is going to be put on the tires, so they list max load and what PSI is needed for that. Then they have the inflation charts to show the pressure needed for loads less than max.

Eesh! [emoji851]

[SeaDog]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Except that isn’t the recommended pressure, that is the pressure needed for max load. If you had the same size tires with the OEM being load range C and the new tires being load range D then you could run the new tires at 50PSI to have the same load rating as the OEM tires even though the new tires say “XXXX LB max at 65 PSI.”

The tire manufacturers have no idea what load is going to be put on the tires, so they list max load and what PSI is needed for that. Then they have the inflation charts to show the pressure needed for loads less than max.

Eesh! [emoji851]

To assume that a higher rated tire (load range) will preform like a lower rated tire when deflated is like being a test pilot. That load range E tire deflated to load range C may very well blowout due to over heating even tho it is nowhere near max load. Myself I inflate to max cold pressure as listed on the tire, I know I get min sidewall deflection and can carry the max load. If I see wear in the center of the tire I will change them out tires are cheap insurance in my view. This topic is one of those topics where no amount of posting is going to settle the question and each person has to do what they feel it best for them.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Teetime

Good decision!

So much of this thread is debating air pressure when they are talking about different tire sizes!

What a waste of nano-bytes and data storage.

If the 205/75R14 Goodyear Endurance Tire says 65PSI Cold, then the 205/75R14 Goodyear Endurance Tire sets at 65PSI Cold! Where's the Tylenol!

In this case the replacement tires are the same size as the original tires. The only difference is an increase in load capacity.

The OEM tires set the minimum standard for that trailer. The replacement tires provide that minimum standard at the same 50 PSI. However, the increased load capacity of the LRD tires gives the owner the option of increasing the inflation pressures above 50 PSI, to take advantage of the reserve load capacity that action will provide. A new RIVA recommendation for RV trailer tires is for them to provide a minimum of 10% load capacity above total GAWR.

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

To assume that a higher rated tire (load range) will preform like a lower rated tire when deflated is like being a test pilot. That load range E tire deflated to load range C may very well blowout due to over heating even tho it is nowhere near max load. Myself I inflate to max cold pressure as listed on the tire, I know I get min sidewall deflection and can carry the max load. If I see wear in the center of the tire I will change them out tires are cheap insurance in my view. This topic is one of those topics where no amount of posting is going to settle the question and each person has to do what they feel it best for them.

It’s not like being a test pilot when the manufacturer’s load and inflation chart say it’s ok and I specifically mentioned using the chart, which for the same size tire in a higher load range has always had the same capacity as the lower range tire at the same pressure as the lower range tire.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Except that isn’t the recommended pressure, that is the pressure needed for max load. If you had the same size tires with the OEM being load range C and the new tires being load range D then you could run the new tires at 50PSI to have the same load rating as the OEM tires even though the new tires say “XXXX LB max at 65 PSI.”

The tire manufacturers have no idea what load is going to be put on the tires, so they list max load and what PSI is needed for that. Then they have the inflation charts to show the pressure needed for loads less than max.

Eesh! [emoji851]

"The tire manufacturers have no idea what load is going to be put on the tires."

That's right, because they do not have anything to do with setting tire inflation pressures. That is the sole responsibility of vehicle manufacturers. It's the primary reason tire inflation charts were developed and standardized.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by Airdale

"The tire manufacturers have no idea what load is going to be put on the tires."

That's right, because they do not have anything to do with setting tire inflation pressures. That is the sole responsibility of vehicle manufacturers. It's the primary reason tire inflation charts were developed and standardized.

So...this pdf inflation and loading chart made available by Goodyear for Goodyear Endurance tires was dictated to Goodyear by vehicle manufacturer's...

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by BigH

So...this pdf inflation and loading chart made available by Goodyear for Goodyear Endurance tires was dictated to Goodyear by vehicle manufacturer's...

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

Right! And the Pope gave up the Catholic church!

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by BigH

So...this pdf inflation and loading chart made available by Goodyear for Goodyear Endurance tires was dictated to Goodyear by vehicle manufacturer's...

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

I think you misunderstood.

The tire manufacturers provide the inflation chart so that vehicle manufacturers know what pressure(s) should be listed on the tire placard based on GAWR.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Inflation should be based on load and speed. 80# is the max pressure you should inflate regardless of speed and load.

80 psi for load range E. 65 psi for load range D.

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

80 psi for load range E. 65 psi for load range D.

110 PSI for load range F & G. At least that's what is says on my tires, so that's what I do.

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by BigH

Thanks for clarifying.

I have not seen folks say we should not exceed the inflation pressure shown on the charts with/when a psi meets or exceeds the load (assuming you're talking about within the sidewall max rating with a load lower than what the tire is capable of).

I have seen folks saying inflate to the maximum on the sidewall and nothing less...and while I don't have issue with anyone running max sidewall, the chart clearly shows psi based on load is within the manufacturer's recommendation. There is no question...folks in either camp (max sidewall or chart psi followers) are safer than using the crappy tires that came on their trailer.

Some folks here certainly are saying you should follow the inflation tables and that tires inflated to higher pressures than stated in the tables are over inflated. To avoid offense, I’m not naming names. Some say only slightly higher than the chart PSI is OK, imply that anything more is “excessive” and go on about the bad effects. Some say PSI should be based on the actual weight being carried and go on about bad effects of higher pressure. There are more.

My trouble with following the inflation charts for "actual weight" is that takes you to the MINIMUM allowable pressure and increases interplay shear forces and reduces your load capability margin. That’s totally bassackwards to me. I understand the arguments, but they give way too much weight to unimportant factors, while ignoring the increased chance of blowouts.

What I care about in choosing inflation pressure is avoiding tire failure. Everything else is secondary and relatively insignificant. I get all the chatter about contact patch, cushion, wear, sway, bounce, etc. BUT...Do folks really want to go to minimum pressure to induce additional sidewall flex and interplay shear forces to get marginally better contact patch? Really? The only way to reduce the sidewall flex is higher pressure. I choose max sidewall PSI to reduce sidewall flex, interplay shear, and chance of blowout.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

I think you misunderstood.

The tire manufacturers provide the inflation chart so that vehicle manufacturers know what pressure(s) should be listed on the tire placard based on GAWR.

Maybe...My post was a little tongue in check because the quoted text wasn't very clear.

Originally Posted by Slow Moon

Some folks here certainly are saying you should follow the inflation tables and that tires inflated to higher pressures than stated in the tables are over inflated. To avoid offense, I’m not naming names. Some say only slightly higher than the chart PSI is OK, imply that anything more is “excessive” and go on about the bad effects. Some say PSI should be based on the actual weight being carried and go on about bad effects of higher pressure. There are more.

My trouble with following the inflation charts for "actual weight" is that takes you to the MINIMUM allowable pressure and increases interplay shear forces and reduces your load capability margin. That’s totally bassackwards to me. I understand the arguments, but they give way too much weight to unimportant factors, while ignoring the increased chance of blowouts.

What I care about in choosing inflation pressure is avoiding tire failure. Everything else is secondary and relatively insignificant. I get all the chatter about contact patch, cushion, wear, sway, bounce, etc. BUT...Do folks really want to go to minimum pressure to induce additional sidewall flex and interplay shear forces to get marginally better contact patch? Really? The only way to reduce the sidewall flex is higher pressure. I choose max sidewall PSI to reduce sidewall flex, interplay shear, and chance of blowout.

Why not name name's? Not that I care but if someone 'believes'/'thinks'/what-have-you about something enough to put it print why would they be upset?

-In the following I'm not trying to discount shear, sidewall flex or anything else that is a problem with under inflated tires.

I posted the link in this thread to the chart made available by Goodyear because of someone else incorrectly stating what the manufacturer recommends.

I went up a load range when I swapped out my bombs, used the chart mentioned above and selected a pressure above the minimum. I did not go to the maximum because this tire has a very rounded contact patch. I wanted (want) to make sure I maintained a good contact patch for braking purposes...necessary? I don't know because I'm not going to do full on measured brake length stopping distances at various tire pressures. -It actually bothers me that I'm not doing that testing...I do emergency braking drills on my motorcycles on a regular basis...I performed handling tests on my four tire vehicles but where does one do this with a camper? I did test to make sure the brake controller brings the tires on the trailer to impending lockup. I guess I could increase the pressure in the tires and do the same thing and see if I notice a difference...but I'm content with my setup.

Advising someone (I'm not saying you did) that went up a load range on a single axle trailer and inflated the tire to max may very well have significantly increased their stopping length.

It seems a large percentage of folks upgrading their tires also go up a load range...I did / the person who started this thread did / others. I care about all the issues mentioned and others that are replacing their bombs do also. All of them going up a load range (or even the same load range) and pick a psi off the chart that gives them a good margin for load are doing better than they were before the tire change. Will anyone dispute that thought?

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by BigH

***
-In the following I'm not trying to discount shear, sidewall flex or anything else that is a problem with under inflated tires.

I posted the link in this thread to the chart made available by Goodyear because of someone else incorrectly stating what the manufacturer recommends.

I went up a load range when I swapped out my bombs, used the chart mentioned above and selected a pressure above the minimum. I did not go to the maximum because this tire has a very rounded contact patch. I wanted (want) to make sure I maintained a good contact patch for braking purposes...necessary? I don't know because I'm not going to do full on measured brake length stopping distances at various tire pressures. -It actually bothers me that I'm not doing that testing...I do emergency braking drills on my motorcycles on a regular basis...I performed handling tests on my four tire vehicles but where does one do this with a camper? I did test to make sure the brake controller brings the tires on the trailer to impending lockup. I guess I could increase the pressure in the tires and do the same thing and see if I notice a difference...but I'm content with my setup.

Advising someone (I'm not saying you did) that went up a load range on a single axle trailer and inflated the tire to max may very well have significantly increased their stopping length.

It seems a large percentage of folks upgrading their tires also go up a load range...I did / the person who started this thread did / others. I care about all the issues mentioned and others that are replacing their bombs do also. All of them going up a load range (or even the same load range) and pick a psi off the chart that gives them a good margin for load are doing better than they were before the tire change. Will anyone dispute that thought?

Interply shear (resulting from sidewall flex) is the most destructive force on all heavy trailer tires whether or not “under inflated,” even if inflated to max sidewall PSI. It is always greater at lower pressures.

Optimum contact patch and all that other stuff is important on most motor vehicles—Not so much on heavy trailers where blowouts & catastrophic tire failures are a real threat. To me, any detrimental braking or other performance effect of higher pressure is too small to notice and most likely insignificant if it occurs at all. I’m sure not worried about tread wear or high-G cornering. I avoid “round profile” tires, but even those will have plenty of contact at max sidewall PSI if you are running anything over half the tire’s load capacity.

Nobody disputes that better tires are better, but better tires can still fail. I have gone up TWO load ranges from “E” to “G” and use the highest load capacity tire I can find in my size (4,400lb per tire). I inflate to 110 PSI and have no concern that stopping distance is increased. Maybe someone with a very lightly loaded single-axle trailer might see a “detectable” stopping distance increase at max sidewall PSI. I don’t know, but until my trailer is so lightly loaded that tire failure is eliminated as a primary concern, I’ll use max sidewall PSI to reduce sidewall flex and interply shear to reduce tire failure risk. The risk of catastrophic tire failure outweighs any stopping distance factor in my view.

Those unconcerned about catastrophic tire failure may choose a different approach. I won’t argue it, but I do hope they understand that inflation charts are MINIMUM values, NOT RECOMMENDED values. I also hope they make the right decision in whether reducing the risk of tire failure should outweigh any disadvantages in contact patch. After all, nothing increases stopping distance like an unexpected blowout.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by Slow Moon

...

Those unconcerned about catastrophic tire failure may choose a different approach. ...

Your entire post is very single view max sidewall pressure or bust nothing else matters...Which is fine by me. I'm glad you made an informed decision

Other folks making informed decisions and choosing a better tire with a higher load rating and a higher pressure (but maybe not running max sidewall) aren't unconcerned about catastrophic tire failure just because they weighed some of the factors different than you.

And like I said, anyone buying a better tire with a better load range and running a psi off the chart that gives them good margin is doing better than they were with the inner tubes that Castle Rock called tires.

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by BigH

Your entire post is very single view max sidewall pressure or bust nothing else matters...***

I like to think that making an informed decision is the point, including proper perspective on "contact patch" et al v catastrophic blowout prevention. Understanding that inflation tables are MINIMUM pressures, NOT RECOMMENDED pressures for a given load helps. If not heavily loaded, less than max PSI might have some small advantages. FOR TRAILERS, I see no advantage in going anywhere near the minimums shown on inflation tables. For those who do, fine. I'm not saying everyone should use max sidewall PSI, but many should. Thanks.

For a humorous but real rule to sum this up and make everyone happy:

Within max sidewall pressure, put air in until you think that any more would make you skid into something, then stop.