New Aframe electric brake setup issues....

[ghodson]

First, I am new to the both the world of campers and the world of towing. Second, apologies for the long post, but trying to provide what I know to date.

I have a 2020 Rockwood A213HW camper and have installed a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller in my tow vehicle. Since I have a factory tow package the brake controller install was simple as I used a Tekonsha wiring harness and connected to the factory installed wiring harness under the dash.

I believe my camper has the Dexter Never Adjust electric trailer brakes installed. The P3 controller setup indicates to set the output level to 6, drive at 25 mph on a flat level surface and manually apply the trailer brakes. If the brakes lockup the tires then adjust the maximum controller output down and retest until the brakes no longer lock up. If the brakes do not lock up then increase the output until the brakes lock up and adjust down until the brakes no longer lock.

Now to the issue. I reached the maximum output level (14) and the trailer brakes do not lock. I contacted my dealer and the technician indicated that I needed to set the self adjusting brakes by reversing the trailer and applying the brakes causing them to "self-adjust" and then I should be OK to set my brake controller. He also indicated that I could add additional boost with the controller system by increasing to B1. Given my camper weight (~2700 lbs) and the tow vehicle perhaps a B1 boost setting makes sense.

Long story short even with boost at B1 I still cannot lock up the trailer brakes. I have tried reversing the camper and applying the brakes and it makes no impact on my setup. After another tech call was made - I was told that I shouldn't need to find an output that locks up my trailer brakes and I really should be OK at boost B1 and setting the brake controller output in a middle of the range setting. Seems like a brush off answer to me - thoughts?

My controller indicates output as I brake and I know I am getting some braking as I can drive at 15mph, let off the gas and use the manual brake control to apply the trailer brakes and slow my vehicle. However, I have no idea from a feel perspective as to how to know that I have my brakes setup correctly.

So as we prepare to reopen the economy across the country I am planning to take my camper out on its first trip (~150 miles from home) and I would like to feel confident in my trailer brake setup. I have ~2weeks to resolve my setup issue.

Being new to this camping and towing I am reaching out looking for help on where to start....

- I plan to check output voltage at my 7-pin to verify that what I believe the controller is sending is getting to the tow plug.

- I have not removed wheels at this point to look at the brakes themselves - I have read about wrong magnet issues, excess grease issues, etc. Is there a need to inspect the brakes on a new camper at this point?

- Is there a break in period that seats the pads that should be followed in order to get proper braking. I used to have drum brakes on an old mini that had to be setup with some level of brake pad drag when spinning the wheel in order to be effective when applying the brake pedal. Rule of thumb was wheel should spin 1 revolution and stop with no braking applied. Old school tech at its best!

- Is there a manual brake adjust process I should follow or are these really self adjusting and if so is the self adjusting set by reversing and applying the brakes

- Should I be able to lock up my brakes as described in the P3 set up procedure and what should I expect for a new camper as a brake controller output that will lock up the brakes

Lots of questions at this point and hoping for some experienced answers...

Thx in advance for any help....

Graeme

[MtBiker]

Your brakes should feel as if you are driving with no trailer. You should just feel them coming on. The brakes do not need to lock up.
A few stops from 40mph using the trailer brakes should burnish in the brakes and make them more efficient.
Do not count on the self adjusting to work.
If you are comfortable get in their and adjust both sides just like you did back in the good old days.
Or trailer had the left side so far out of adjustment that only the right side was effective.

[NavyLCDR]

The self adjusters work with repeated applications of the brakes in either forward or reverse direction. It's not just a one time in reverse adjustment.

If you are feeling significant braking action with the controller on max gain, that is all you need. You should notice that as the new brakes continue to adjust and the pads get burnished, braking should become stronger, and you may have to lower the gain some over time.

[oxcamper]

You have a relatively light trailer. This may help determine if your brakes are working:
I do this with my flatbed trailer every year the first time I use it to make sure the brakes work.

I hook up the trailer,
do a light check (make sure the wiring harness isn't compromised)
pull onto a level straight stretch of roadway
drive about 20 - 25 mph and put the vehicle in neutral (so you are coasting)
CAREFULLY activate the manual brake controller and the trailer brakes should slow you down if they're working. Depending on your brake controller, you can adjust the trailer brakes doing this until the trailer locks.

I've found, even on my 18' stock trailer, that if I try to lock up the brakes while braking with the tow vehicle in drive, the tv provides most of the braking and the trailer brakes won't lock.

[Flybob]

Your brakes do not need to lock up, but they should slow the TV/TT combo if applied ( which you say they do). After a few forward and back stops, you can try resetting again.

[Bama Rambler]

One thing that's been touched on, but I want to touch on it again.

The brake adjustment is self adjusting, BUT if they're too loose to start with either the self adjuster won't engage as you activate the brakes or it'll take it so long to adjust them that it'll seem like forever.

The best thing to do is manually adjust the initially and then let the self-adjuster work. You'll likely see a big difference by doing that.

[chuckyb9876]

I would suggest that you check the brakes in your case. Make sure the battery is at full charge and if you have a battery shutoff switch that it be in the on position. At this point you can test the battery by turning on an outside light. If it lights than your battery is hooked up to the camper in the on position. At this point you can pull the camper break away cable that normally hooks up to the TV(tow vehicle) along with the chains while towing. The brakes at this point should be totally locked up as this a security feature in case the TT(tow vehicle) and the TV are separated. I have a 2012 FR T12DDST and I had to check my brakes in this manner at one point. You will not be able to move your camper at this point. Once you find out locked or unlocked you'll have your answer. I'm hearing impaired so listening for the "hum" of the brake doesn't work for me. If the camper rolls, take it back and have the dealer adjust the brake. If they lock up your next step is look at the controller. I have the Prodigy P2 and run at no boost and #6.3. At 20mph you want to lock up your brakes with your controller lever, not the TV brakes. Then you adjust as per the instructions knowing that you back it off from there. Good luck and keep us informed.

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by MtBiker

Your brakes should feel as if you are driving with no trailer. You should just feel them coming on. The brakes do not need to lock up.
A few stops from 40mph using the trailer brakes should burnish in the brakes and make them more efficient.
Do not count on the self adjusting to work.
If you are comfortable get in their and adjust both sides just like you did back in the good old days.
Or trailer had the left side so far out of adjustment that only the right side was effective.

What MT Biker said. I have the same model A-frame (except for 2019 bought Aug 2018) with the same controller. The A-frame brakes just didn't do much with the gain set the same as previous A-frame. I was afraid the bearing seal had leaked grease at the factory.

As a precaution, I pulled the wheels and found the bearings were greased, but that was it. No hub full of grease, brakes were dry. I cleaned and repacked the bearings, put in new seals, and put the wheel back together. Brakes had already self-adjusted pretty close to optimum - just the slightest drag when I reinstalled the wheels. I also had my local tire shop balance the tires while I had the wheels off.

Burnishing was the key to making the brakes effective. I turned the gain up to near max, no boost, and made several applications of brakes from about 45MPH. Quite a difference after about 6 fairly hard applications, about a minute apart to allow for cooling. Turned down the gain to just feeling the trailer brake at about 45MPH. As the brakes have gotten used, I have had to keep turning down the gain on the controller.

hope this helps
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time