One trailer wheel overheating VERY hot! - Page 4

PamJohnZephyr · 10-18-2021, 01:10 PM

Still waiting for the brake/wheel kit to arrive. First shop will replace under full warranty including labor.

PamJohnZephyr · 10-20-2021, 10:42 AM

New wheel/brake parts are on order and will be changed out under warranty from the first shop. Second shop claims all four brakes needed adjustment and their charge stands. Aside from the warranty on the parts (which they claim the company, Rigid, they got them from doesn't warranty the parts) they will not charge any labor to swap new stuff when it comes in. Let's hope the parts are in country and not being loaded on a container ship for Long Beach!

krazyk · 10-23-2021, 02:00 AM

Quote:

First shop will replace under full warranty including labor

Did they inspect everything and find a problem? Maybe you could get them to show you what they think the issue is and explain it?

PamJohnZephyr · 10-23-2021, 04:33 PM

They called Friday to say the parts were in. They are booked though next week but if I drop off the trailer Monday they will try to find time to get it done. I will certainly be there during the parts swap. Fingers crossed.

Mike134 · 10-23-2021, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PamJohnZephyr

They called Friday to say the parts were in.

Thanks for keeping us updated. We've all been armchair diagnosing this, hope it solves your troubles.

NJBreeze · 10-23-2021, 09:35 PM

After they assemble it I would activate the brakes and see if they get tight then loosen up.

I wouldn't leave until they show you that. Without signal the brakes should turn freely and or just drag a little. I used to adjust a million drum brakes back in the day. I would adjust them until they just drag a little without application. In just a few miles they loosen right up but the customers would always appreciate the extra pedal I gave them.

Not sure what the self adjusting mechanisms are on these brakes. On a Car when you hit the brakes when backing up they would self adjust.

TitanMike · 10-24-2021, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJBreeze

After they assemble it I would activate the brakes and see if they get tight then loosen up.

I wouldn't leave until they show you that. Without signal the brakes should turn freely and or just drag a little. I used to adjust a million drum brakes back in the day. I would adjust them until they just drag a little without application. In just a few miles they loosen right up but the customers would always appreciate the extra pedal I gave them.

Not sure what the self adjusting mechanisms are on these brakes. On a Car when you hit the brakes when backing up they would self adjust.

These are electric brakes, not hydraulic like used on cars. No "pedal" gained by adjusting tight.

Also unlike cars, the drum needs to be rotating when brakes are applied fir them to activate. Merely stepping on pedal with TV and TT stationary will not apply electric brakes although some controllers have a "hill holder" feature. Keep pedal depressed for several seconds and it will send some electricity continuously to the electric brakes then stop when pedal is released.

Otherwise breakaway switch needs to be activated and wheel turned by hand.

If self adjusting they do so on electric brakes when going forward. Unlike cars trailers are usually backed up at speeds that don't lend to adjusting brakes well.

krazyk · 10-24-2021, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Otherwise breakaway switch needs to be activated and wheel turned by hand.

I would have them prove that this is working as well as a thorugh test drive before you sign off on the completed repair.

Even if you are not capable of doing the parts changes yourself, nothing is stopping you from learning about the components and how they work. Do that and then you can stand over their shoulder while giving advice and commentary during the work. Most shops really appreciate an involved customer.

TitanMike · 10-24-2021, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krazyk

I would have them prove that this is working as well as a thorugh test drive before you sign off on the completed repair.

Even if you are not capable of doing the parts changes yourself, nothing is stopping you from learning about the components and how they work. Do that and then you can stand over their shoulder while giving advice and commentary during the work. Most shops really appreciate an involved customer.

Are you kidding? Most shops prohibit customers from coming into shops and standing over mechanic's shoulders. Most mechanics don't want the interference and shop owner's insurance company doesn't want it either.

Perhaps in a shade-tree mechanic's world.

PamJohnZephyr · 10-24-2021, 05:44 PM

Trust me, I have learned all about the parts and how they are supposed to work! So, yeah, nothing stopped me from doing that. And while I'm no longer able to get down and dirty, I have been down and dirty for most of my life, starting with growing up on a farm where my dad taught me how to fix what's broken. I retired as a regional manager for a very large lawn and landscape company where I diagnosed and directed repairs on countless pieces of mechanical equipment. I'm not a clueless dufus. I will be watching the parts swap with great interest.

Mike134 · 10-24-2021, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krazyk

Do that and then you can stand over their shoulder while giving advice and commentary during the work.

After 40 years both installing and troubleshooting electrical work if a customer wants to stand over my shoulder to give advise I'll offer him mine. FIX IT YOURSELF you don't need to hire me, pack my tools up and leave.

NavyLCDR · 10-24-2021, 08:33 PM

Well, I can relate a true life experience. My trailer was at a dealer for warranty repairs on the Schwintek slide out system. Dropped the trailer off on Monday, pick up was scheduled for Friday. Thursday, I was in town where the dealer was and I called them and made arrangements to meet them for an after-repair inspection. They brought me into their shop and ran the slide in and out a couple times to demonstrate their repairs. I really wish I had done a more thorough inspection of their work.

I returned on Friday, the next day, to pick up the trailer. It was on their lot, all buttoned up ready for me to connect and tow away. I get to my camping spot that evening and run the slide out, and while connecting utilities that was when I noticed two vertical d-shape rubber seals missing along the sides of the side! The next morning, after running the slide in, I inspected the inside and there was the same d-shaped rubber seal missing on the top of the slide on the inside!

I called the dealer (300 miles away from my home) on Monday and notified them of the missing seals. They never admitted their mistake of not re-installing the seals, but they did order new seals and I should be getting them soon to re-install myself.

PamJohnZephyr · 10-24-2021, 08:44 PM

Sorry for your trouble Navy, I hate RV service centers. To be clear, neither of these two shops were RV dealers/service centers. Both are respected and long time commercial truck and trailer shops. Hopefully, the elusive issue will be discovered and corrected with the new, replacement parts.

krazyk · 10-24-2021, 10:40 PM

Quote:

commercial truck and trailer shops

That could be another issue. Commercial trucks and trailers with air brakes are not even close to the same as our RV trailer brakes. Maybe it would have been better off in an RV shop?

TitanMike · 10-25-2021, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krazyk

That could be another issue. Commercial trucks and trailers with air brakes are not even close to the same as our RV trailer brakes. Maybe it would have been better off in an RV shop?

Commercial truck and trailer shops hire trained and usually certified mechanics and a trained mechanic knows brakes from hydraulic to air and even electric. There are tons of commercial trailers out there that have electric brakes, especially in the "Hot Shot" transport market where the commercial hauler is using a 1-Ton and enclosed trailer to haul loads that can't wait for a LTL or FTL carrier.

The LAST place I'd go would be an RV Dealer shop. Mobile RV repair would be far better.

PamJohnZephyr · 10-25-2021, 04:42 PM

And now, the next installment of, "When will this thing get fixed?"
Rather than drop off the trailer in hopes of the shop "shoehorning" it in between already scheduled jobs, I decided to make an appointment for the repairs. This way, they won't feel pressure to get it out the door and on to the next paying customer. I'm not going anywhere with the trailer and I'd rather it sit here at home instead of in an industrial park parking lot with no fencing. Appointment made for Nov. 8. Take a break everyone...see you in a couple of weeks.

PamJohnZephyr · 11-08-2021, 07:17 PM

Replacement brake/wheel/bearing kit installed today. My own multi-stop road test mirrored the last one that showed the left front much hotter than the other three. This time all four wheels are within a few degrees of each other, all around 100 degrees at the hottest. As for finding the cause of this saga, we can't find one. The parts that came off all worked as they should. Applying the brake with wheel on and spinning it...then brake off, nothing was hanging up or dragging. The mechanics are at a loss to explain it and told me that they wouldn't even pretend to know what was wrong. But after my own road test, I'm reasonably satisfied that the issue is resolved. At least until the next time I'm 350 miles from home!
Thanks again for all your suggestions and theories.
John

**Bama Rambler** · 11-08-2021, 07:21 PM

Glad you got it fixed, even if you don't know what caused the problem. And thanks for letting us go along for the ride.

Mike134 · 11-08-2021, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Glad you got it fixed, even if you don't know what caused the problem. And thanks for letting us go along for the ride.

X2!!!

TitanMike · 11-08-2021, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PamJohnZephyr

Replacement brake/wheel/bearing kit installed today. My own multi-stop road test mirrored the last one that showed the left front much hotter than the other three. This time all four wheels are within a few degrees of each other, all around 100 degrees at the hottest. As for finding the cause of this saga, we can't find one. The parts that came off all worked as they should. Applying the brake with wheel on and spinning it...then brake off, nothing was hanging up or dragging. The mechanics are at a loss to explain it and told me that they wouldn't even pretend to know what was wrong. But after my own road test, I'm reasonably satisfied that the issue is resolved. At least until the next time I'm 350 miles from home!
Thanks again for all your suggestions and theories.
John

The temps should even out more after a lot more stops.

Dexter makes a point of the need for brakes to be burnished before full braking effect is achieved. In their FAQ's they state this can take UP TO 100 STOPS.

With electric brakes it's not just burnishing the brake shoes but also magnet surfaces where they contact the armature.

Another fact pointed out in Dexter FAQ's is that there are two different P/N brake shoes for the same brakes. One is a more aggressive (higher friction coefficient) lining and if mixed with others on a vehicle can result in a hotter drum. It's doing more work.

Could have been as simple as a wrong set of shoes that are easy to overlook as they look the same to most eyes.

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