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Old 10-12-2024, 05:07 PM   #1
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Overheating hub conundrum

Ok so I'm not at a total loss. I have a 2013 26' Salem travel trailer with tandem axles. I have a single hub/wheel that is still overheating, after replacing literally everything. A few years ago I had a bearing blow out on this particular wheel. We replaced the hub/bearing and everything was fine for a year or so, then we put the camper into storage for a few years. I did some reno work on it this summer, and went to check all the axles, and noticed this one in particular wasn't spinning smoothly at all. So to make a long story short trying to fix this - over the summer I have replaced the entire axle (I noticed there was some damage to the spindle), replaced the hubs on both sides of this axle, and of course new bearings. The wheel spins freely, and I've adjusted the electric brakes just fine.. I do not think I've over-tightened the castle nut. However, this one hub in particular still gets pretty hot.. after about a 20-30 minute drive its almost too hot to touch, but the rest of the hubs remain cool. What the heck am I missing??
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Old 10-12-2024, 06:46 PM   #2
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Just a guess here, but is the wheel itself true?

What axles do you have? Dexter/Lippert? Capacity?
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Old 10-12-2024, 06:51 PM   #3
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You don't tighten the nut and leave it. You tighten it, loosen it, finger tighten it, and then back off to a cotter pin slot. That leaves a little end play for bearing expansion due to heat.
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Old 10-12-2024, 06:58 PM   #4
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Another huge source of heat at the hub is an improperly adjusted brake assy.

That can cause very rapid heat buildup.
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Old 10-12-2024, 07:47 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Another huge source of heat at the hub is an improperly adjusted brake assy.

That can cause very rapid heat buildup.
X2
Even though the OP said the brakes are adjusted correctly, I wonder, did they get a bare axle and swap the backing plate assemblies?

Once cool, I'd take a short trip, stopping intermittently to see if the heat build up begins to generate from the drum or the hub
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Old 10-13-2024, 03:39 AM   #6
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My check would be to see if the tire/wheel spins freely.
If not the brake is dragging or bearing too tight.
Compare with another tire/wheel.

Check for bearing play by moving tire side to side.
If no play bearing could be too tight.

I also adjust bearings like Twinboat described.
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Old 10-13-2024, 11:52 AM   #7
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Just a guess here, but is the wheel itself true?

What axles do you have? Dexter/Lippert? Capacity?

The tire has not been balanced, no - do you think it would be worth swapping a couple wheels around to see if it makes a difference?


The axles are Lippert (EX Lube)
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Old 10-13-2024, 11:55 AM   #8
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You don't tighten the nut and leave it. You tighten it, loosen it, finger tighten it, and then back off to a cotter pin slot. That leaves a little end play for bearing expansion due to heat.

Thanks, this is exactly how I did it. Thinking maybe I overtightened it, I backed it off today 1 slot and took it for another drive. I could tell there was a little drag before, and after backing it off there was no drag at all, but a little more play than I am comfortable with. But since I was taking it on a short drive, I did so anyways and it didn't make any difference. It still got hot after just a 10 minute drive.
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Old 10-13-2024, 11:59 AM   #9
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X2
Even though the OP said the brakes are adjusted correctly, I wonder, did they get a bare axle and swap the backing plate assemblies?

Once cool, I'd take a short trip, stopping intermittently to see if the heat build up begins to generate from the drum or the hub

I did get a bare axle.. I think what you're referring to the backing plate is kind of part of the hub assembly.. here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B36KF944 - they also came with all new races and bearings.
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Old 10-13-2024, 12:02 PM   #10
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My check would be to see if the tire/wheel spins freely.
If not the brake is dragging or bearing too tight.
Compare with another tire/wheel.

Check for bearing play by moving tire side to side.
If no play bearing could be too tight.

I also adjust bearings like Twinboat described.

Yep if anything the brakes have been too lightly on this wheel just to ensure that isn't the cause - it's definitely not the brakes - the wheel spins perfectly freely.
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Old 10-13-2024, 12:20 PM   #11
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Yep if anything the brakes have been too lightly on this wheel just to ensure that isn't the cause - it's definitely not the brakes - the wheel spins perfectly freely.
If wheels spinning freely and no feel of roughness in bearing I doubt it's a bearing issue. I would be interested in whether brake on other side Is working.

One easy check would be to pull breakaway switch pin and measure current draw with clamp type ammeter ar brake wires on each backing plate. Should be around 3 amps per brake.

If one brake is doing all the work it's drum/hub will be a lot hotter than the other.
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Old 10-13-2024, 12:32 PM   #12
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Maybe not enough grease in the bearings?
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Old 10-13-2024, 12:39 PM   #13
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Maybe not enough grease in the bearings?
Surprisingly, roller bearings don't need much grease like a journal bearing. Since OP recently serviced the bearings I strongly doubt grease is an issue.
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Old 10-24-2024, 09:21 PM   #14
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When my front curbside tire/wheel/hub starts running hotter than the other 3 it turns out that the brakes are too tight. I've got self-adjusters and for some reason just this one wheel gets out of whack. I lift it, adjust it and it's good for another few months. I suspect that it's caused by backing the trailer into a tight location with my electric dolly. The dolly slams on the brakes really hard when I let off the throttle and I'm always making a tight turn in only one direction and this tire does most of the pivoting.
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Old 10-25-2024, 09:53 AM   #15
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Do your 10/20 minute run with the brakes disconnected. Sounds like the magnet is staying energized for some reason. Your brakes are probably not energized when you are jacked up and spinning the wheel.
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