Packing wheel bearings on a 5th wheel

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by pgandw

Grease in the bearings doesn't degrade for a long time if not overheated, and rear seal and dust cap seal remain intact. Which is why I don't repack for 3 years unless there are circumstances and/or an event that indicates the wheel should be pulled sooner (Reliability Centered Maintenance principle).

I am curious as to how grease in the bearing can be replenished and/or refreshed by excess grease sitting in the hub. Grease, unlike oil, doesn't migrate/move/flow unless under pressure.

I fully hand pack the bearings. I add a film of grease on the races. I also put a film on the inside of the hub as a corrosion preventative, but that's a holdover from my boat trailering days. Not necessary on an RV, but doesn't harm anything. Result is the grease lubricates the bearing, and I have that much less mess to clean when I pull the wheel for a repack.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
last trip: White River County Park, Indiana, October
next trip: Chatfield SP, CO, next week

I don't think most people really understand the design changes in the hub of an EZ-Lube hub versus the old hubs.

The inside of an old hub could hold a lot of grease either by accident or design. The EZ-Lube hub center fits the spindle far closer and holds a relatively small amount of grease.

As for the "Dust cap" holding grease anyone who used, or used, their EZ-Lube system know that the dust cap is open while greasing and once excess grease flows from outer bearing the excess can be merely removed by wiping with a paper towel or even scooping out CAREFULLY with a finger.

As for grease "migrating", as a rule it doesn't. It can bleed some of the oil that is part of it's formualtion and if it does get hot enough it can definitely migrate. That's why Dexter spec's a high Drop Point for greases in their hubs.

[jenandjon]

I pack mine every year. I have the dexter ez lube axles but I don't use them. I repack by hand.
When I bought this trailer the sales person said I never have to pack them. Just pump some grease in there once in a while. As soon as I got it home I pulled it apart and found all 4 wheel seals blown and brakes covered in grease.

[aceinspp]

My camper is just under a year old and I needed some warranty work done so I told them while it was there to repack the wheel bearing and its a good thing as they found all 4 rear seals about to blow out. I heard a lot of horror stories on here over the years about folks with new campers and the issues they had with bearings and such. So I'm glade a Had it done and now really to travel to Savannah feeling a lot better about the trip.



I do keep a running log on trailer miles and usually can go two years before repacking. Later RJD

[jmcclocklin]

The only tow I do every year is approx 1700Km,s and then sits at our summer resort lot. Although the tow distance is not great the $300.00 I pay to get them repacked every 2 years takes away any worries. I too have the Dexter EZ lube which I don't use.
And I did repack my bearings once myself and got more grease on me than on the bearings!

[tucson]

agreed, pull the wheels once and hand grease both bearings on each wheel with a quality grease, likely all they will ever need. How many times do you grease your tow vehicle bearings? If like me never.

[Jfkmk]

Originally Posted by tucson

agreed, pull the wheels once and hand grease both bearings on each wheel with a quality grease, likely all they will ever need. How many times do you grease your tow vehicle bearings? If like me never.

Your tow vehicle most likely has sealed bearings.

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by srcamper

Is it really important to repack my wheel bearings? I know it is on a boat because it is in water but how about my 5th wheel? I have owned 3 different campers now and I have never repacked them before but I am going to start pulling it on longer trips. Just don't want to pay for maintenance I really don't need.

Just need imput.

Thanks,

SRCamper

All manufacturers recommend inspecting the bearings and seals at least every two years. It's as simple as jacking the wheel up, taking it off and pulling the hub straight off. If the backing plate is clean, that means the seal is doing its job. running a finger over the seal lip and feeling for any nicks, and making sure it is flexible and the spring is in place is how to check the seal, a look inside the hub to see how much grease is in it is the last thing. You DON'T want the hub filled with grease, that is BAD because grease expands when it heats up and if too much grease it will blow past the seal. If you detect anything out of ordinary, like the grease is stiff or chunky looking, then a wash and repack is needed. For that, get new seals. Flush the bearings out with a degreaser, until there are no more traces of old grease and hand pack them. Flush out the hub as well, and insert the rear bearing, and pack more grease into and around it, the install the seal being careful not to damage it. Put the hub back on after inspecting the drum to make sure no grease got on it, then after packing the outer bearing, insert and do the same packing grease through the bearing until the whole bearing is coated. Then put the washer and nut back on, tighten properly and replace the cotter pin with a new one.


The only time to use the EZ hub is when the bearings are freshly installed because you know the grease will flow. You can periodically add some grease during the season if you think is needs it, but properly packed with good seals, the grease has no where to go but around and through the bearings. If you are unsure of the condition of the grease DON'T USE THEM! The grease in the cavity could be stiff and prevent the fresh grease from flowing out towards the outer bearing and blow out the seal instead.

If you have a brand new trailer, then go ahead and use a hand pump grease gun and inject the proper grease until you see a little come out from the outer race, cap it and good to go. Do this at the end of the season and in the spring, but every two years you must remove the hubs and do the full inspection I posted up top. Whatever you do, don't keep pumping grease through thinking you are flushing out the old, you need to INSPECT everything!

[olemax]

Grease is more fluid when it is heated, or subjected to shearing action, like running around in a bearing.



Also, grease is not a uniform petroleum product, such as oil or gasoline. It is an emulsion (mixture) of lighter weight oils in a soap, such as calcium stearate, sodium stearate, lithium stearate. These emulsions are semi-solids at room temperature, but have a lower viscosity under shear, and the oils flow onto the moving surfaces and do their job of lubricating.

I know all that's almost as clear as mud?

The conclusion is, pack 'em, keep 'em clean, dry, and don't mess with them unless there's a reason.



Rest easy and enjoy your camping.

Olemax

[paverdave]

When my brakes got all greased up the whole grease seal popped out of the hub.....Dexter website calls to put permatex on the seal and tap it in place..It sounds like this is not whats happening here with the grease.....Just a thought......

[Mandog]

Originally Posted by pgandw

I too used to own boats on trailers, and had to repack wheel bearings every year due to water contamination of the grease. Bearing Buddies usually got me a second year between repacks.

On my current A-frame, after 8 months and reading horror stories in these forums, I got scared and pulled the wheels to check what the factory had done. Bearings (and bearings only) were packed with a purple grease. In other words, hubs were fine.

I cleaned and repacked the bearings with Lucas Tacky Red and put in new seals. I had the tires balanced at the same time.

I see no reason for repacking for 3 years unless there is an indication of something wrong with the wheels or brakes. The A-frame averages less than 5K miles/year, and mostly on good roads. If there is a reason to remove the wheel in the interim, then I will likely repack at that time.

Others will likely say it needs to be done more often. With bigger trailers and more loaded bearings, that may be true. I'm pretty sure a single axle loads the bearings a lot less than dual axles.

I trailered a small boat from Kodiak, Alaska to San Francisco. In northern BC, one of the dust covers fell off the hub, and it took me a couple of days to find a town where they had a replacement (I did not repack the bearings). When I discovered the missing dust cap during my nightly checks, I pulled as much dusty grease as I could out of the hub with my fingers, and then covered the hub with Saran wrap and rubber bands. In the interim, I had driven over muddy and dusty dirt and gravel roads. That bearing never overheated or gave a problem the entire 5K mile trip.

Likewise, I once owned a 1960 MGA. The front bearings were going bad - you could feel and hear them. When I finally (yes, I was young, stupid, and car-poor) pulled the wire wheels to replace the bearing, the rollers had turned to squared off sliders. Yet it never overheated or failed.

just my experiences
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

That Lucas red Tacky bearing grease is good stuff. I agree every three years for me. I average 4,500 -5,500 miles a year and ever have a problem on this schedule.

[pwoods]

I had our TT repacked after 2 seasons. Thought I could go 3 years this year. After 7 hours on the side of I-5 and a new axle, I'm sold on having them repacked every other year if not every year. Would have been way cheaper.

[cautery]

Originally Posted by tucson

agreed, pull the wheels once and hand grease both bearings on each wheel with a quality grease, likely all they will ever need. How many times do you grease your tow vehicle bearings? If like me never.

I flush, repack, and reset the spindle nut torque on my front wheel bearings every year. Truck is 16 years old and is in perfect working order.

Bearings wear and require checking for play IAW shop manual.

We are headed to OH to pick up our first TT/TH next week.
I can ASSURE you that my axles will be maintenanced on a very regular mileage basis (TBD) to include flushing, repacking, et al. the bearings.

On the first service, I will tear out a bunch of the OE stuff and put in better equalizers, wet bolts, et al.

I am a FIRM believer that anywhere metal touches metal and there is movement requires lubrication and preferably a backup "supply" sitting right there on hand.

THAT is why I replaced the ENTIRE suspension and steering linkages on my truck to include Zerk fittings in every ball joint, et al.

[Mandog]

Originally Posted by cautery

I flush, repack, and reset the spindle nut torque on my front wheel bearings every year. Truck is 16 years old and is in perfect working order.

Bearings wear and require checking for play IAW shop manual.

We are headed to OH to pick up our first TT/TH next week.
I can ASSURE you that my axles will be maintenanced on a very regular mileage basis (TBD) to include flushing, repacking, et al. the bearings.

On the first service, I will tear out a bunch of the OE stuff and put in better equalizers, wet bolts, et al.

I am a FIRM believer that anywhere metal touches metal and there is movement requires lubrication and preferably a backup "supply" sitting right there on hand.

THAT is why I replaced the ENTIRE suspension and steering linkages on my truck to include Zerk fittings in every ball joint, et al.

You bring up a good point. Hub play should be checked twice a year. Once if you don’t use it much. That is a leading cause of wheel bearing failure. I have 4-trailers and do just that. I check the hub end play in the fall and middle of summer. I do 3-year wheel bearing service on all my trailers. Never had a problem. Premium synthetic grease I think Lucas red tacky is what I still have on hand. It’s good stuff. If a wheel overheats from a brake issue then bearing service should be done as well. 30 plus years knock on wood with no bearing issues. A few brake issues, a tire here and there. I just changed a while ago to Cooper LT’s on my dump trailer because ST tires just won’t last. The ST tires dry rot and tread separates prematurely. No I don’t cover those tires because of the use it sees. Anyway thanks for bringing up the bearing check as it is very important.

[Comanchecreek]

Originally Posted by tucson

agreed, pull the wheels once and hand grease both bearings on each wheel with a quality grease, likely all they will ever need. How many times do you grease your tow vehicle bearings? If like me never.

C'mon. Unless you're towing with a '65 Chevy C-10 your tow vehicle has sealed bearings, and you better check them regularly by jacking up each side and checking for play. They go out a lot more than you would think.

[Jeffjeeptj]

I just finished installing new bearings, races, and seals on a 15YO utility trailer. It does not have easy lube axles. Prior owner stated he never checked bearings or tires, other than air pressure. Tires were date coded 1205 and had plenty of checking on side walls and tread. They also had that “sun aged” dry rubber look. PO stated he had not checked air pressure for at least 6 months, tires were 5 psi below max sidewall marking. Trailer had always been parked outside, but, “never submerged”. Hubs rotated smoothly with no noise, but, were very loose side to,side. Said he hadnused it “alot”.
I disassembled the hubs. There was no seal leakage, had grease at both bearings (but not between them) was cakey, but when touched would mush around. It looked as if the emulsifiers had dried out. I also found rust on the axle surface between the bearings where there was no grease, inside the dust cap, and inside the hub between the bearings. The bearings had no unusual wear indications. The hub was not marked in any manner, but the bearings were China.

New USA Timken cones and cups, new seal, and hubs/dust caps manually greased and grease pumped into the area between the bearings. Tires replaced with Goodyear Endurance and Hunter Road Force balanced. Ready to go.

I keep my TT greased. Next time I have one of the brake drums off, I will look into drilling a hole in the backing plate to allow a borescope in to check seal leakage without removing the drum.

My recommendation is to disassemble once, assure it is in good order, then use EZLube feature.

[cautery]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

C'mon. Unless you're towing with a '65 Chevy C-10 your tow vehicle has sealed bearings, and you better check them regularly by jacking up each side and checking for play. They go out a lot more than you would think.

I replaced the inner/outer tie rods, center link, idler arm, Pittman arm, and both upper and lower A-arms on my 16 year old F150 SPECIFICALLY to eliminate "sealed bearings" from the system.

Same with the driveshaft.... new HD U-joints with grease fittings.

ALL of the sealed bearings were out of service spec for either/both lateral and axial play.

[cautery]

Originally Posted by Jeffjeeptj

I keep my TT greased. Next time I have one of the brake drums off, I will look into drilling a hole in the backing plate to allow a borescope in to check seal leakage without removing the drum.

The inspection port is a great idea.... Big enough for the scope and sized appropriately for a rubber plug to keep it covered when not in use.

Thanks.... adding that to the list.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by cautery

The inspection port is a great idea.... Big enough for the scope and sized appropriately for a rubber plug to keep it covered when not in use.

Thanks.... adding that to the list.

The backing plates on my TT have two spots on the edge where there's no recurve back toward the drum. If I shine a light into the gap on the back, I can see the back of the seal through the gap in the front. Turning the wheel helps discern the back of the seal from all the other "innards".

FWIW, I use the EZ-Lube for all greasing of the bearings. Last inspection I cleaned bearings, reassembled "dry", and used the EZ-Lube as my bearing packer. Worked great. Since the instructions call for the wheel to be turned while greasing, grease was well distributed in the bearings.

[jenandjon]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

The backing plates on my TT have two spots on the edge where there's no recurve back toward the drum. If I shine a light into the gap on the back, I can see the back of the seal through the gap in the front. Turning the wheel helps discern the back of the seal from all the other "innards".



FWIW, I use the EZ-Lube for all greasing of the bearings. Last inspection I cleaned bearings, reassembled "dry", and used the EZ-Lube as my bearing packer. Worked great. Since the instructions call for the wheel to be turned while greasing, grease was well distributed in the bearings.

How many pumps did it take?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by jenandjon

How many pumps did it take?

With my pistol grip hand grease gun, that only puts out about 1/2 tsp of grease per "pump" it took about 40 squeezes of the handle.

As a rule hand grease guns don't put out much grease per movement of the handle. Air operated units on the other hand can deliver enough grease with each pulse of the pump, at high enough pressure, to squirt grease 20 feet or more. That's why they aren't recommended for EZ-Lube systems.