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Old 05-08-2019, 03:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by metroplexchl View Post
One thing I just cannot wrap my head around is why we're told to level the trailer and THEN open the slide? It doesn't make sense to me to level the thing, then slide out this huge weight 3-4 ft and then expect it to be level still.....

But as I said, I'm a newbie!
It's mainly to protect the slide mechanism. You may overload the slide mechanism or motors if your asking it to push it uphill a significant amount. And your right, If you start level and then put your slide out as most of the manufactures require, your likely going to be out a little bit.

Frankly, If it get it pretty darn close the other way and then run your slide(s) out and your level, your not going to hurt anything.

I think the main reason they tell you to level first is so somebody doesn't run their slides out with their camper 3" or more high or low on the slide side with the nose still cranked up 10" from level front to back from unhitching the trailer.

Kinda of a McDonalds, "This coffee is HOT thing" if you catch what I'm saying.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:42 AM   #22
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After awhile many of us learn to set up with the slide out side a bit high so that it levels up once opened. Either way there is going to be a bit of uphill for the slide mechanism.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:45 AM   #23
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Once again I need to replace the cheap bubble level on the front of the TT. When new, the bubble was about a 1/4" wide. Looking at it yesterday and the bubble is about 2" wide now. There is never any evidence of leakage and they just seem to dry out.
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:14 AM   #24
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After awhile many of us learn to set up with the slide out side a bit high so that it levels up once opened. Either way there is going to be a bit of uphill for the slide mechanism.
I do that, too...

However, I have slides on both sides...so I have to level both sides high!

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Old 05-08-2019, 10:24 AM   #25
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I level, put out the stabilizers and then put out the slides. I use a Levelmate Pro but since my leveling blocks are pretty much in inch increments, I only get to a certain level anyway.

BTW, perfectly level for the refrigerator is not critical. It can run fine at an angle that would make you uncomfortable sleeping in the trailer. If you are comfortable sleeping in the trailer, the fridge is fine.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:02 AM   #26
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BTW, perfectly level for the refrigerator is not critical. It can run fine at an angle that would make you uncomfortable sleeping in the trailer. If you are comfortable sleeping in the trailer, the fridge is fine.
That is not good advice...

Front to back level on a fridge is not as critical as side to side level is.

Having an RV refer level side to side is very important for the longevity of it.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
I do that, too...

However, I have slides on both sides...so I have to level both sides high!

For that you need a double-bubble level!
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:40 AM   #28
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The wife got tired of the level in the cabinet, or on the floor while I was working on things (once I get it level I just leave it there, not a good practice, but thats just the way I do it) and then put it away when I'm done with the outside stuff. So she bought me the LevelMate Pro. Its awesome. I used it to level the trailer 3 times, and then verified with my level all 3 times before I decided to trust it.

The best feature is the recall position option. When you get to the site and unhook from the truck, you raise the trailer up, and when its high enough to drive out from under it, you hit the button to save the setting. Then when you are done camping and want to reconnect the trailer, you know exactly how high to raise the trailer so you can back up under it.

Link attached. Admittedly not "cheap", but my wife had a few gift cards for Amazon from work, so we applied that money to the order and got it for alot less. Actually saw it cheaper through Camping World when it was on sale, but we didnt have gift cards to there so it was still more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/LevelMatePRO-.../dp/B01FGGSWPW
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:41 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Got this from the DW, for Christmas:

RV Smart-Level

Haven't installed it yet though.
I tried that device and took it back. The mount connection is so wobble that you can get any reading you want by touching it. Good luck with yours.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:49 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
That is not good advice...

Front to back level on a fridge is not as critical as side to side level is.

Having an RV refer level side to side is very important for the longevity of it.
Read the manual! It says exactly what I just said! If the RV is comfortable enough to live in, it's level.

Direct from the Dometic manual:
Quote:
To ensure proper leveling the
vehicle needs to be leveled so it is comfortable to live in
(no noticeable sloping of floor or walls).
BTW, 3 degrees is often stated as max side to side. That's nearly 1/2" on an 8' wide camper if you are fridge is in a back wall. If it's in a side wall, that's 1 1/2" on a 24' trailer fore and aft.
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:33 PM   #31
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I agree Babcock, extreme accuracy, while nice, is not necessary.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:49 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by babock View Post
Read the manual! It says exactly what I just said! If the RV is comfortable enough to live in, it's level.

Direct from the Dometic manual:


BTW, 3 degrees is often stated as max side to side. That's nearly 1/2" on an 8' wide camper if you are fridge is in a back wall. If it's in a side wall, that's 1 1/2" on a 24' trailer fore and aft.
Yep. 3 degree side to side and 6 degrees front to back. That's directly from Dometic.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post701585
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by CincyGus View Post
I set my camper up originally with my wife inside and a 4' level laying in the center of the floor measuring side to side level. Got that taken care of and then leveled front to back using the trailer tongue jack. Once the big level showed good both side to side and front to back, I double checked my work.

I went inside to make sure the kitchen cabinet doors would stay where I opened them to when I let them go (Front to back double check).
I also checked the cabinet doors over the bed in the nose of the camper (Side to side Double check).

Then it's time to stick the bubble levels on the camper. It's worked for me on every camper I've owned.

Next one I own will have the sensor mounted in the camper and the app on my phone.
get the levelmate pro, camping world has them, you will love it
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:30 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by metroplexchl View Post
One thing I just cannot wrap my head around is why we're told to level the trailer and THEN open the slide? It doesn't make sense to me to level the thing, then slide out this huge weight 3-4 ft and then expect it to be level still.....

But as I said, I'm a newbie!
I find that I need to be about a half of bubble high on the slide to be right when the slide goes out.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:20 PM   #35
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I put some levels on my 5'ver once I had it all leveled out.

Now I can see them both from the driver's door mirror.

When I was pulling TT's I found that using the tongue to level wasn't accurate.

Close...but not level.

The center of the floor inside was the best place to use to get them level in my experience.

this is what I've done with my TT also. makes it much easier.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:20 PM   #36
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I also have the levelmate Pro. I have the old version with out the power switch.

They take the CR2032 batteries and mine dies after a month or so with out the switch. The new one has an on/off switch that saves the battery and having to replace it frequently.

I love it. It works perfectly. It allows me to see if it is level or not while never getting out of the truck. I can move forward and backward and get it as level as possible. Then put the wedge ramps (andersens) under and I am level in a few minutes.

I would recommend it.

New version is $139 from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LevelMatePRO-.../dp/B01FGGSWPW

I can upgrade from the old one for $99 and I keep the old one per LogicBlue; the manufacturer.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:24 PM   #37
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I have an app on my Droid phone for a centered type bubble level that I use. Turn it on and set it just inside the door. Get leveled side to side and then fore and aft. I have two of those Camco stick on levels, one on the rear bumper and one near the front drop legs. I usually can get leveled up pretty easy.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:41 PM   #38
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I have a 25' MiniLite and I use a 2" diameter bubble circular level mounted to the top of the frame about a foot ahead of the trailer body and on the top surface. It made leveling very easy.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:50 PM   #39
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Leveling made easy

I purchased a 2019 Flagstaff 26FKBS around Thanksgiving. I previously owned a 37 foot 5ver. Leveling a trailer can certainly be problematic. I purchased a LevelMate Pro, leveled my TT the conventional way with bubble levels and my IPhone. Got it perfect. opened the App on my I phone, energized the device, mounted it to read zero side to side and front to rear. Now all I have to do is back the trailer into position with my IPhone at my side and I know within 1/10 of an inch what the trailer’s attitude is. I then select the risers I need, set them in front of or behind my tires, get the trailer up on them, check the readout, 99% of the time it will be zero. This is side to side. Then I disconnect the trailer and use the tongue jack to level it front to rear. A great system. Good luck with whatever you decide to use to level your RV.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:52 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Coloradotsm54 View Post
I purchased a 2019 Flagstaff 26FKBS around Thanksgiving. I previously owned a 37 foot 5ver. Leveling a trailer can certainly be problematic. I purchased a LevelMate Pro, leveled my TT the conventional way with bubble levels and my IPhone. Got it perfect. opened the App on my I phone, energized the device, mounted it to read zero side to side and front to rear. Now all I have to do is back the trailer into position with my IPhone at my side and I know within 1/10 of an inch what the trailer’s attitude is. I then select the risers I need, set them in front of or behind my tires, get the trailer up on them, check the readout, 99% of the time it will be zero. This is side to side. Then I disconnect the trailer and use the tongue jack to level it front to rear. A great system. Good luck with whatever you decide to use to level your RV.
I use the same system. Got tired of changing batteries and wired in a small regulator inside it and power it off of 12V so its always on.
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