Slide out question

[Kroni]

I have a 2016 Primetime Avenger, 28DBS. It has a 12’ slide out on the drivers side. IIRC the manual says not to open the slide unless the battery is hooked up, the trailer is connected to AC and stabilizer jacks down.

I’m planning a trip to Yellowstone (yes I’ve already made reservations &#128515 and I plan to stay in Walmart parking lots a few times on the way there and back. My question is, if I keep the camper hooked to my TV both electrically and physically and I lower the stabilizer jacks, can I safely extend and retract the slide out?

Will not being hooked up to AC power damage anything?

Thanks

[bikendan]

You DON'T want keep the umbilical cord plugged into the TV. It's fine for extending and retracting the slide but unplug it after that. Some TVs will have their battery drained by morning.
Leaving it hitched up is fine.

[Kroni]

Thanks.

Yes I was worried about the trailer draining the TV battery so I will definitely disconnect it. But will I damage anything (electrical) by extending and retracting the slide without being hooked to shore power?

[Dirthawg_]

The slide is designed to run on 12v. As long at the house battery is charged the slide can be opened/closed. If the voltage of the battery drops to low the converter will not allow anything 12v to operate.

It's good practice to make sure the trailer be somewhat level before opening/closing the slides so pick your parking spot accordingly.

It's also proper parking lot etiquette to not drop stabilizers or open slides.

[Tom 2424]

Also, be sure you know how to extend and retract your slide manually in case there is ever no power, or the motor fails, etc. Usually there is a fitting onto which you put a crank handle.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Kroni

Thanks.

Yes I was worried about the trailer draining the TV battery so I will definitely disconnect it. But will I damage anything (electrical) by extending and retracting the slide without being hooked to shore power?

As was said, the slide motors are 12v DC, not 120v AC. All shore power does is provide more oomph. But they are designed to operate on battery power.
Did someone tell that you could damage something?
The only negative is if you have a low battery. That's why a dual battery setup is preferable.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Tom 2424

Usually there is a fitting onto which you put a crank handle.

Not on the very common Schwintek slide system.

[Kroni]

It’s going to be pretty tough to get around it the trailer with the slide closed. I guess I’ll try to find a spot far away from everyone else and open as late into the day as possible.

I didn’t know there was means to open the slide mechanically without power. The trailer didn’t come with a crank handle for that but I will look into it.

Yes, I will definitely make sure it’s level before opening.

Thanks for the replies.

[Tom 2424]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Not on the very common Schwintek slide system.

Thank you for the clarification. I have a "rack and pinion" system where you can see the two racks underneath the slide out when it is extended.

@Kroni, when I get a chance I'll post a picture of the manual crank and where it connects.

[phipps33]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Not on the very common Schwintek slide system.

Nope, I have the Schwintek and no manual override that I’ve been able to find.

[Dirthawg_]

Schwintek slides require the motors removed before they can be retracted.

[Kroni]

Thanks for the replies.

How do I determine if I have a Schwintec slide?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Kroni

Thanks for the replies.

How do I determine if I have a Schwintec slide?

There is an upper and lower track on each side of the opened slideout.
Google will give you plenty of information.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by Kroni

Thanks for the replies.

How do I determine if I have a Schwintec slide?

Here is a link to a diagram of the Schwintek in wall slide mechanism. The motors, torque shaft, and spur gears are contained within the exterior wall. The gear racks are attached to the sides of the slide room.

https://assets.lci1.com/support/uplo..._assembly_.jpg

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by Dirthawg_

The slide is designed to run on 12v. As long at the house battery is charged the slide can be opened/closed. If the voltage of the battery drops to low the converter will not allow anything 12v to operate.

I'm curious about that statement. What does the converter have to do with it? Is there some type of low voltage cutout/disconnect? I believe the 12v system is nothing but the battery connected to all the DC loads through the power panel via fuses. The converter only supplies charging voltage to the DC bus when AC power is available through the shore power connection. Solar panels would also provide charging voltage to the DC bus through their charging controller.

[Dirthawg_]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

I'm curious about that statement. What does the converter have to do with it? Is there some type of low voltage cutout/disconnect? I believe the 12v system is nothing but the battery connected to all the DC loads through the power panel via fuses. The converter only supplies charging voltage to the DC bus when AC power is available through the shore power connection. Solar panels would also provide charging voltage to the DC bus through their charging controller.

I was using the word converter loosely. I am referring to the power distribution center that is commonly found in new RV's.

Specifically the WFCO distribution center. It is much more than a simple fuse buss. It contains a circuit board that is smart in nature and will protect all the circuits connected to it.

In my experience the WFCO distribution center has a low voltage cuttoff. I did not do extensive testing so I could be wrong. Contacting the manufacture would certainly answer that question.

I had a single house battery on my trailer that dropped to 12.2v on the way back from a camping trip. I was unable to switch on a single LED light fixture inside the trailer. The entire trailer was dead as if no power was connected whatsoever.

[Tom 2424]

Originally Posted by Tom 2424

Thank you for the clarification. I have a "rack and pinion" system where you can see the two racks underneath the slide out when it is extended.

@Kroni, when I get a chance I'll post a picture of the manual crank and where it connects.

Good morning, I went out and took a picture of my TT with the slide out crank handle installed, and posted it here. I tested it at the dealer and it works great. There is a large reduction gear in there, so it takes a lot of cranking but the effort is low.

Again, I have a rack-and-pinion type slideout mechanism that is not a Schwintek.

[Kroni]

I live in NY and there is still a foot of snow on top of my camper which is also covered!

Once it finally melts off I’ll open the slide and take a look but I’m not very optimistic. There is no crank handle “hole” in the side of the camper and it did not come with a crank. Also, when I first got the camper I read through the manual and don’t remember anything about manual cranking it in or out. Not say it can’t be done, I just don’t remember seeing that.

I do remember on the walk through them telling me something about making sure to run it completely out/in before going the opposite direction. Something about getting it misaligned. That’s making me think it’s one of those Schwenteks.

[Kroni]

All of that said, I don’t see any tracks on the upper sides of the slide when it’s extended...

[Tom 2424]

Originally Posted by Kroni

All of that said, I don’t see any tracks on the upper sides of the slide when it’s extended...

My tracks are underneath the slide. (See pix.)