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Old 07-11-2014, 07:40 AM   #41
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:12 AM   #42
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weight

Extra weight on tires can apply to those who tow fifth wheels with 1/2 t
and those who tow tags with vehicle that is not big enough....for half ton towing fifth wheel pin weight has to be around a 1000 lbs...instead of 1500-2000 or more....transferring that weight to the trailer tires....weight has to go somewhere....when you use equalizer hitches and level out the sag on the back of tow vehicle, where does that weight go? The other effect of not enough pin weight is chucking.....and or excess sway with tag.

Just something for all who tow to think about.....the above combined with rutted road from tractor trailers and pot holes along with driving at max speed is recipe for accident......be safe and slow down, whats the hurry your house is with you.....
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:33 AM   #43
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Extra weight on tires can apply to those who tow fifth wheels with 1/2 t
and those who tow tags with vehicle that is not big enough....for half ton towing fifth wheel pin weight has to be around a 1000 lbs...instead of 1500-2000 or more....transferring that weight to the trailer tires....weight has to go somewhere....when you use equalizer hitches and level out the sag on the back of tow vehicle, where does that weight go? The other effect of not enough pin weight is chucking.....and or excess sway with tag.

Just something for all who tow to think about.....the above combined with rutted road from tractor trailers and pot holes along with driving at max speed is recipe for accident......be safe and slow down, whats the hurry your house is with you.....
Thanks man. I certainly agree with the bad road conditions messing with tire entegrity. I don't understand tho, how a trailer knows that you're towing half ton or 3/4 ton. The weight on the pin is the same no matter what's under the pin, isn't it? Unless I'm missing something. Are you saying that my 5er weighs more on my 1/2 ton than it would hitched to my father-in-law's 3/4 ton? And how would that effect the weight on the tires of the trailer?
With TT, the weight distribution hitch transfers some of the weight on the hitch to the front axle of the tow vehichle and reduces some of the weight on the rear axle. I suppose some of the weight may be transferred back to the TT, but don't see anything that would make that happen on a 5er. But, I have lots to learn. I'll do a little research and maybe find out what I'm missing.
Thanks again. David
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:43 AM   #44
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Thanks man. I certainly agree with the bad road conditions messing with tire entegrity. I don't understand tho, how a trailer knows that you're towing half ton or 3/4 ton. The weight on the pin is the same no matter what's under the pin, isn't it? Unless I'm missing something. Are you saying that my 5er weighs more on my 1/2 ton than it would hitched to my father-in-law's 3/4 ton? And how would that effect the weight on the tires of the trailer?
With TT, the weight distribution hitch transfers some of the weight on the hitch to the front axle of the tow vehichle and reduces some of the weight on the rear axle. I suppose some of the weight may be transferred back to the TT, but don't see anything that would make that happen on a 5er. But, I have lots to learn. I'll do a little research and maybe find out what I'm missing.
Thanks again. David
I agree David, the trailer doesn't know whether it is towed with a 1/2T or a Peterbilt, the pin wt or trailer wt doesn't change.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:40 AM   #45
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X2!!! My TST TPMS alerted me to a slow leak on one of my original factory tires that I am positive saved me from a tire disaster!
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:06 PM   #46
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Wow! That's a great set up. May have to look into one of those systems in the future.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:52 PM   #47
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I purchased my two new Goodyear Marathons size ST205/75R14 Max Load 1760lbs 4ply tires @50psi for $92 each.
I checked today and the same tire here cost $93 each plus $15 for mounting. Not a big savings, unless they mount and balance for no additional cost.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:21 PM   #48
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This is a very popular subject on both RV and Marine forums--all brands.

As far as I can tell, avoid the current Goodyear Marathon "willpops" like the plague. Goodyear's G614's are really great tires, but they're really expensive @ $399ish in 16" sizes. They require metal valve stems for 110-125 lbs. pressure and not all RV wheels are rated for such pressure.

If you're going to stick with ST tires, Maxxis M8008's are the only decent tire that's affordable. Kumho 857's are good but just 14" tires--for bass boats and light RV's.

Alternative trailer tires are "commercial rib tires" like they use on 1 ton work trucks. These will be LT tires with an E weight rating. They will be the Bridgestone Duramis R250, BFG Commercial T/A, Michelin XPS Ribs and Cooper Discoverer Maxx.

When my new fifth wheel trailer arrives shortly, first step will be to swap out the Chinese tires that just about every manufacturer puts on them. There are horror stories written online just about every day about shredded tires with little or no mileage on them.
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:25 PM   #49
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Don't leave home without one!
X2!!! Great advice!

According to reputable tire dealers, the vast majority of trailer tire failures are due to under-inflation. This can happen through road hazards no matter how careful you are about starting your day at the correct cold tire pressure! I hit a nail just outside of Meade, KS that dropped the pressure down and warned me before any damage resulted. I pumped the tire back up and limped into town. The boys at the co-op there repaired the tire and I was on my way in about 1/2 an hour.

Without TPMS, the tire would almost certainly have blown; whether or not it was an ST or LT tire would have been irrelevant.

When trailers like my lightweight Crusader experience a tire failure, the damage seems to run between $3,000 and $5,000 as a rule, as much of the skirting, underbelly and sub-floor get chewed to pieces.

A TPMS is great insurance, and also lets you relax at least a little bit because you know exactly what's going on "back there".
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:42 PM   #50
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Extra weight on tires can apply to those who tow fifth wheels with 1/2 t
and those who tow tags with vehicle that is not big enough....for half ton towing fifth wheel pin weight has to be around a 1000 lbs...instead of 1500-2000 or more....transferring that weight to the trailer tires....weight has to go somewhere....when you use equalizer hitches and level out the sag on the back of tow vehicle, where does that weight go? The other effect of not enough pin weight is chucking.....and or excess sway with tag.

Just something for all who tow to think about.....the above combined with rutted road from tractor trailers and pot holes along with driving at max speed is recipe for accident......be safe and slow down, whats the hurry your house is with you.....
Please explane how the weight transfer back to the trailer axles of a 1/2 ton compared to 3/4 ton TV? I do not understand the logic of that at all...... I might be wrong but chucking is not caused by the pin weight?
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:52 PM   #51
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I've read this week about a bunch of RV'ers that had TPMS and it didn't help them a bit when their tires separated. In their case, they slowed to a stop quicker, and might have done less damage to their fenders, siding and underbelly.

In your case, it was TPMS was well worthwhile. For just over $200, it's something that a serious trailer owner shouldn't be without.

And one of the first steps is junking any rubber Schrader valves/air stems in favor of metal ones.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:49 AM   #52
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I've read this week about a bunch of RV'ers that had TPMS and it didn't help them a bit when their tires separated. In their case, they slowed to a stop quicker, and might have done less damage to their fenders, siding and underbelly.

In your case, it was TPMS was well worthwhile. For just over $200, it's something that a serious trailer owner shouldn't be without.

And one of the first steps is junking any rubber Schrader valves/air stems in favor of metal ones.
X2....TPMS = piece of mind and another tool to make camping a bit less like work. Rubber valve stems = as much trouble as China bombs. Those stems are generally only good for 65# max.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:18 AM   #53
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Anyone have experience with Karrier Loadstar STs? We have about 4800 miles on the ones that came on our Roo. So far they look great.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:49 AM   #54
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Anyone have experience with Karrier Loadstar STs? We have about 4800 miles on the ones that came on our Roo. So far they look great.

Those are what came on ours. So far no issues but we've only had it since last year. I'm not sure how many miles they have, as I haven't kept track. I just keep an eye on the tread and figure I'll replace them when they start to look worn.

Actually, that brings up a topic I've been pondering. Do you rotate the tires on a trailer like you do with your vehicle, or do they tend to wear evenly so no point?



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Old 07-20-2014, 10:29 AM   #55
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Actually, that brings up a topic I've been pondering. Do you rotate the tires on a trailer like you do with your vehicle, or do they tend to wear evenly so no point?
Entering 'rotating' into the search box above will give you some reading to do before hijacking this thread... at least 6 threads on the topic on the first page of results.
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:02 AM   #56
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I'm sorry, but I certainly am not going to buy any tire I never heard of, especially if they're from China. And I cannot go with Goodyear Marathons with their terrible reputation.

What's ironic is that the owner/moderator of a couple of large RV owner forums is on a long RV trip. Two Will Pop tires blew yesterday and did serious damage to the fenders and siding on his 5er. He used duck tape to patch things up temporarily.

On an RV, the following LT style E rated tires are the only brand/models to get:
Bridgestone Duramis R250
Cooper Discoverer Maxx
Maxxis M8008 (ST tire)
BFG Commercial T/A
Michelin XPS Ribs
Goodyear G614 RST (ST tire)

My new fifth wheel's scheduled for production 7/22, and I've decided to change to the Bridgestone R250's--one of two tires consistently bragged on as being trouble free and long lasting. The Michelin XPS rib is the other universally approved tire, but it's more expensive.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:08 AM   #57
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Bamaman,

Those tires are pretty heavy duty and most require tire pressures over 100 PSI. On a travel trailer made without shocks, you are going to shake it to pieces in short order with double over range tires.

They may outlast several trailers.

Properly matched tires to (load range to camper weight) is more important than manufacturer. Once you have the correct load range tire for your rig; THEN you can talk about who makes it and where it was made.

Even if you could find one, putting a G range tire on a D range trailer for example, seems a total waste of money, IMO.

FYI, my Marathons are about to "age out" with more than 50% tread remaining and over 25,000 towing miles on them.

A new set of Marathons will be going on next season.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:22 AM   #58
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Herk: Only the Firestone G614's are G rated, and only they require high pressure and special wheels. My fifth wheel came with wheels that'll accept them. But $400 per tire is very expensive, even if the tires are of very high quality.

The rest are E rated tires, and 80 psi is usually the max on them. I have comparable tires on my 3/4 ton truck, and I run 55 psi when not towing anything. They're not at all harsh.

Do yourself a favor and research the current Goodyear Marathon tires further. Because of the brand name, there are many on the road. And now they appear just to be another Chinese Will Pop tire. Marathons are one of the tires universally complained about.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:44 AM   #59
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For what it's worth. My old Marathons lasted me 6 years trouble free. I replaced them mid trip due to an air leak in the sidewall of one of the tires. I replaced all due to their age and signs of drying out.

After I had posted pics of my blowout, others responded that it looks like I had encountered some type of road hazard that caused the tire to fail. The tire dealership that replaced the two tires hinted at the same cause.

I held on to the tires because I wanted to contact Goodyear. I did. This was their response.

Jim:

Thank you for contacting our web site. We are always concerned when we
learn that we have failed to exceed a customer's expectations with regards
to our product or service.

All Goodyear tires come with a six year limited warranty. During the first
12 months or 2/32" of tread wear, whichever comes first, tires removed from
service due to a covered warranty condition will be replaced with a
comparable Goodyear product free of charge, mounting and balancing are
included.

Tires not eligible for free replacement that are removed from service due
to a covered warranty condition will be replaced with a comparable new
Goodyear tire on a prorated basis for up to six (6) years from the date of
purchase. (Without proof of purchase the date of manufacture will be used
to determine eligibility.)

Without inspecting the tire in question we could not comment as to its
cause or condition.

Goodyear relies on a network of retail locations, both Company Owned and
Independent to determine warranty eligibility. If your tire is still
available and has not been inspected by an authorized Goodyear retailer we
would suggest you do so. You can locate your nearest authorized retailer
by calling toll free 1-800-466-3932 or on our web site at the following
path: http://www.goodyeardealers.com/

If after inspecting your tires the authorized retailer is unable to assist
you please ask them to contact our Customer Assistance Center toll free at
1-800-321-2136 to discuss your situation with one of our Customer
Assistance Professionals. Please reference file number 1412625.

Kathe
Consumer Relations


I decided not to argue the point after suspecting I indeed may have run something over. I took the tires to my local Costco to have the tires disposed of. I asked them to look at both tires and he pretty quickly came to the conclusion that it looked as though something had punctured the tire. Not so obvious on the one that was shredded, but on tire number 2.

I'll just have to have faith in the new ones seeing the originals lasted me 7 good seasons.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:44 AM   #60
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Herk: Only the Firestone G614's are G rated, and only they require high pressure and special wheels. My fifth wheel came with wheels that'll accept them. But $400 per tire is very expensive, even if the tires are of very high quality.

The rest are E rated tires, and 80 psi is usually the max on them. I have comparable tires on my 3/4 ton truck, and I run 55 psi when not towing anything. They're not at all harsh.

Do yourself a favor and research the current Goodyear Marathon tires further. Because of the brand name, there are many on the road. And now they appear just to be another Chinese Will Pop tire. Marathons are one of the tires universally complained about.
OK, but still putting a new set of Marathons on when these are ready. I will, of course, report as soon as these explode with no warning.

Most tires fail due to road hazard and operator error (under inflated for load).
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