Spring over axle replacement

f5moab · 05-14-2015, 07:20 AM

When I purchased the trailer (228 Popup), I had the dealer flip the springs over the axle to give me an additional (approx.) 4 inches so I could take the trailer to places normally it would not be able to go. Doing so was fun, but it appears it might have been pretty hard on the trailer springs over the years.

Now that I have to replace the springs, just want to make sure it is as straight forward as replacing springs that are below an axle. Basically wondering if there might be some surprise I am not aware of. I have replaced springs under an axle before.

After jacking up and removing the tire (and adding stands with one to allow the axle to drop a few inches), I loosen the two end bolts, then remove the u-bolts and plate, then remove the end bolts and pull the axle down.

So, other than the u-bolt nuts being on top vs. the bottom, is there anything else I should know, to prevent the spring from becoming part of the concrete driveway; house; neighbors cat, etc.

youroo · 05-14-2015, 07:26 AM

I would loosen the UBolts first while they are captured,then the end shackle bolts last!

Youroo!!

f5moab · 05-14-2015, 08:32 AM

Good idea. I'm just wondering wondering how much pressure there is on the spring being bolted to the top of the axle vs. the bottom of the axle. I'll take it slow. Need to get one off to measure and order, and I'll probably replace the brakes with self adjusters at the same time.

bob caldwell · 05-14-2015, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f5moab

Good idea. I'm just wondering wondering how much pressure there is on the spring being bolted to the top of the axle vs. the bottom of the axle. I'll take it slow. Need to get one off to measure and order, and I'll probably replace the brakes with self adjusters at the same time.

Sled puppies..... the weight of the axle will separate it from the spring.....I'd just jack it up high enough for the tire to clear the ground.....there'll be no surprises with the spring.

f5moab · 05-14-2015, 05:51 PM

I plan on having fun

Had to purchase some cinder blocks so my jackstands will be high enough to match up to the trailer after I jack it up. Frame is 20" from the ground

bob caldwell · 05-14-2015, 06:09 PM

Would also suggest to do the brake stuff after the spring thing....won't have to chase it around.... the axle, that is!

f5moab · 05-18-2015, 04:27 PM

Learned a lot today. One is that Forest River really goes to the minimum when using axles. Axle is a AL-KO rated at 2750 lbs with a 10 x 1 3/4" brake assembly, so NO auto adjusters available for this setup. (Gross vehicle weight is 3100 lbs; dry 2153, dry tongue 350.)

Spring looks to be a standard size (25 1/4 L x 1 3/4 W with 3" bow); except for the rating. Stock is rated at 1375, all replacements I can find are rated at 1750. Not a problem, but still...

At least the shackles, bolts and bearing/seal kits are standard size (if not long shackles but with the lift, glad they are available on etrailer).

Shackles were elongated from a 9/16" hole to almost 3/4" (top to bottom) slot. And lower shackle bolt to spring was cross-threaded and needed to be cut off. Really fun with a hacksaw while laying on my back. I guess those shackles didn't like those rock ledges I used to drag it up when living in UT and pulling with a Hummer. So not complaining, just surprised at the wear.

So that was most likely the clanking noise (shackles). But since I have it all disassembled, might as well replace springs too.

As for removal, pretty much straight forward. When cranking off the the eye bolt nuts, there was some tension, my estimate is 1/2 inch of cranking of the huts and axle was free to rest on jackstand.

f5moab · 05-19-2015, 07:56 AM

After some measuring of the brake drum/hub assemblies, I discovered that even though the brake shoes are 1 3/4" wide, the drum/hub assembly was designed for standard 2 1/4" shoes. (All dimensions of the drum are identical to 10 x 2 1/4" brakes. Never seen an oversized drum on a set of brake before.)

So, I am going to the self-adjuster brakes from Dexter.

I did notice that the EX-LUBE system worked as designed. After three years of using the zerk fitting to add grease to the bearings, there was no leakage past the seals.

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