Swapping to beefier leaf springs?

[Daxbuddy]

Just spent a day replacing a broken leaf spring for my small trailer with 3500# Dexter axle. Since my trailer is about 3300# dry and empty, that axle capacity and the stock leaf springs barely suffice for zero load. WTH?
So I was wondering if there is a down side to beefing up the springs, say to something that would work for a 4000# axle - without changing the axle. Obviously there would be a bit stiffer ride, but I'd accept that for the added insurance...
The replacement I just installed is stamped MAT218, which appears to be matched to a 3500# axle, with 1750# spring capacity. I then saw a MAT211 option, same size but with a higher load rating, 2000# per spring I think. That extra 250# per spring might help on rough roads.
Anybody have pros/cons for this idea?

[tomkatb]

Statics 101. The ups equal the ups and the downs equal the downs.

Your springs are rated at perhaps #3000. That does not include the tongue. So the trailer is good for #3000 plus the tongue weight. So likely #3400.

Going to heavier springs too far would sort of cancel the springs ability to soften the ride.

Do not go too far.

[Daxbuddy]

Understood. But the axle and springs seem pretty matched to a dry, unloaded trailer. Not very realistic. We will be travelling down Baja for the winter, with perhaps 500# of supllies, and a bit of fresh water (100#?) if we need an overnighter spot or two.
So assuming we close in on 4000# trailer weight, with maybe 300# on the tongue, I'd rather a rougher ride than risk a broken spring on a Mexican backroad (or highway).
I can replace a spring (given copious time), but not an axle.
Cheers

[tomkatb]

Be careful of your payload!

As a structural guy the whole rv is a system. Overloading the rv often then breaks something. Welds. Hangers. Bolts in springs.

The springs plus the hitch weight is sort of the max payload. Tires. Be careful.

Springs are not real expensive.

[tomkatb]

There are off road capable rv’s. And there are ultra lites that should never leave pavement.

In trucks, there is nothing you can do that legally increases the payload. Be careful.,

[Odyknuck]

I would install a set of Timbren's and call it a day. They are a progressive spring rubber and will give you what you need for extra load conditions and still not be too stiff under normal conditions.

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by Daxbuddy

Understood. But the axle and springs seem pretty matched to a dry, unloaded trailer. Not very realistic. We will be travelling down Baja for the winter, with perhaps 500# of supllies, and a bit of fresh water (100#?) if we need an overnighter spot or two.
So assuming we close in on 4000# trailer weight, with maybe 300# on the tongue, I'd rather a rougher ride than risk a broken spring on a Mexican backroad (or highway).
I can replace a spring (given copious time), but not an axle.
Cheers

You don't say what trailer you have. However if your loaded trailer really is around 4000 pounds then 300 on the tongue is way too light. You should be at least 500 lbs, probably 600 to be safe. That puts you 100lbs below your axle/spring limit.

Jim M.

[Aussieguy]

what broke on the original and how old was it

if it lasted 10 years or more give it a A+ and go get another

[Boomerweps]

My 3500# rated axle springs were flattened in five years.
Turns out the axle itself is used on suspensions rated at up to 5000#.
After reading all the Amazon reviews on the 2500# springs and 1750# springs going flat after install, I decided seller reputation was VERY important and bought my 2500# springs from ETrailer.com.
I had my axle flipped at the 2.5 year point. With the new springs, I could return the axle to the overspring position, don’t need that much clearance height, but I’ll live with it.

[corn18]

I replaced the factory 4 leaf packs on my 5er with 6 leaf packs. The factory 4 leaf had a rating of 2550 lbs and were smashed flat even when I picked up the 5er and got worse as I loaded up the 5er. The new 6 leaf are 2,750 lbs. and they do not smash flat and seem to be a much better match for my 5er. I do not exceed the original weight rating of my axles just because I have bigger spring packs but the 5er rides so much nicer now, especially with shocks. A bonus for me is it lifted the 5er 1.5" which helped level the 5er.

[D W]

Heavier springs does not increase the GVWR.

[corn18]

Originally Posted by D W

Heavier springs does not increase the GVWR.

Nope, but it sure makes my 5er tow a lot better.

[Daxbuddy]

Well, partly as a result of feedback here, I decided to go with the same spring that I had installed (my prior spare). Also bought another, my new spare, to carry in case of issues.
During installation, however, I did a major Doh!
Somehow, I managed to install one side with the spring's "band" towards the front of the trailer, and the other side is reversed. Etrailer says it doesn't matter, anyone know if I should expect any tracking differences with this setup?
I do not want to spend another half day under the trailer, so it would be off to the RV shop if it needs reversing...grrr.

[ejl923]

Just get a measurement from the eye to a fixed point in each. I had sumo springs in my old springs, and when I replaced the leafs I reused the sumo. On my old springs I saw a dent in the frame from overcompressed spring, so I thought why not reuse the sumo and they won’t bottom again, hopefully extending their life

[Capt Pete]

We upgraded springs for customers on a regular basis. All you are doing is installing a spring that will flatten less for the same load. Or flatten the same amount for a heavier load. The trailer has not become stronger. If the trailer has enough reserve strength in it to carry an extra 500lbs then everything is fine. You will have increased the spring carrying capacity by a little less than 15%. Without knowing anything about the trailer, an extra 500lbs is probably fine. You would like to think the designer would have engineered in a safety factor of more than 15%!
It will certainly help on rough roads.

The sole purpose of the band is to keep the leaves aligned, ie one on top of each other. They can pivot around the center bolt without an alignment band.
What is more important is to ensure that the distance from the spring eye to the center bolt is the same. I personally would take the time to swap around one spring. We tended to keep the band to the front.
Pete