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Old 09-03-2013, 10:52 AM   #61
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One of my RV buddies had a blowout with his heavy Carriage Cameo running 16" LR E tires. He said that another friend of his with the similar RV (weight and size) had tire issues as well. They have both gone to 16" LR G tires, and haven't had a problem since. I think the tires he bought are Crosswind brand.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:34 PM   #62
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Tireman9, just wanted to compliment you on your site at RVtiresafety, lots of good info there, easy to read, and easy to find. I just noticed one point that you made in regards to load range and tire pressure. You mentioned that a Load range E inflated to 65 lbs can't carry anymore load than a LR D at 65, since it's the air that carries the load, the tire and rim support it. This fact makes things a lot clearer to me, and running my LR E tires at 65 psi, should make my trailer pull without a lot of bounce, and shouldn't negatively impact the safety of the tires. (my thinking anyway)
Here are some questions that I have;

Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire?

How do you determine the proper pressure if your tire is underloaded? I thought that sidewall flex was a killer, so if you don't inflate to the maximum pressure, will you have excessive flexing?

Just edumacating my self for the future, but someone that currently has a fiver may also benefit from this info.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:33 PM   #63
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I'm no tire expert.. although Roger (tireman9) is and there is some great info on his site.
I found a couple interesting links you might want to check out regarding weight vs tire pressure. I'm sure they are posted elsewhere on this forum, but have a peek.

Michelin North America RV Load & Inflation Tables

The Inflation Loading - Goodyear RV

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:17 PM   #64
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Here are some questions that I have;

Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire? It is the air pressure not the tire that carries the load so the answer is NO

How do you determine the proper pressure if your tire is underloaded?
Load& Inflation tables from your tire mfg+10% margin for motorhomes.
I thought that sidewall flex was a killer, so if you don't inflate to the maximum pressure, will you have excessive flexing? Not sure how to determine "Excessive" For motorhomes see above for proper tire pressure minimum.

Just edumacating my self for the future, but someone that currently has a fiver may also benefit from this info. Trailer owners have a post just for them identified in the index on my blog.
Quick answers in RED above.

Have you looked theough my blog? Long answers to your questions are there.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:22 AM   #65
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I usually look at FR Forums on my phone, so I haven't seen your blog. In my question I meant; "Is the carcass of an E tire stronger than a C tire?
I'm reading your blog right after I hit enter. Thanks!

Windywest - Thanks!

edit:
Just read four of your blog entries. I'll be reading a lot more of them soon.

*The chalk line test for over and under inflation is genius! You said move the wheel just a few feet. Literally? Walking speeds?

*Can you weigh each wheel individually if you only put one wheel on the scale pad and have the other side of the axle on the concrete? My statics/physics knowledge tells me the weights should be essentially the same as individual scales for each wheel. (I live in Korea-individual scales just ain't gonna happen here)

*Regarding the E vs. C tire, would it be detrimental to buy an E-rated tire and only inflate it to the amount required for the load? Sidewall flex is only an issue if the pressure is UNDER the amount needed for the load if I understand your blog entries.

I pull only single-axle trailers at this point, but don't mind spending more money on tires if it will get me additional safety. I will be pulling multi-axle trailers in the future, but doubt that I will ever have an RV.

Thanks,
Baron
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:57 AM   #66
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I usually look at FR Forums on my phone, so I haven't seen your blog. In my question I meant; "Is the carcass of an E tire stronger than a C tire?
I'm reading your blog right after I hit enter. Thanks!

Windywest - Thanks!

edit:
Just read four of your blog entries. I'll be reading a lot more of them soon.

*The chalk line test for over and under inflation is genius! You said move the wheel just a few feet. Literally? Walking speeds? Yes you do not have to drive miles and if you turn that will wear a side and confuse the results.

*Can you weigh each wheel individually if you only put one wheel on the scale pad and have the other side of the axle on the concrete? My statics/physics knowledge tells me the weights should be essentially the same as individual scales for each wheel. (I live in Korea-individual scales just ain't gonna happen here) Check the worksheet (need to download) HERE.

*Regarding the E vs. C tire, would it be detrimental to buy an E-rated tire and only inflate it to the amount required for the load? No
Sidewall flex is only an issue if the pressure is UNDER the amount needed for the load if I understand your blog entries. Basically yes but multi-axle trailers are the exception

I pull only single-axle trailers at this point, but don't mind spending more money on tires if it will get me additional safety. I will be pulling multi-axle trailers in the future, but doubt that I will ever have an RV. An E Load Range tire is not necessarily "stronger" in the sidewall body.

Thanks,
Baron
Answers in RED
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:06 PM   #67
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Thank you!
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:29 PM   #68
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I agree with the posts on having the alignment checked at a shop that normally does trailers. I learned with my Coachmen that even large dealers like Camping World do not normally do alignment. In fact my local "store" couldn't even suggest a location to have my Class-C aligned so clearly they do not have a clue when it comes to trailers.
I see Canonman found a trailer alignment shop. I know I would be interested in the before & after numbers and what was involved in doing the "fix".
Boy, were you ever right when you said it would be a specialty shop. I finally did find a shop that can do the work (50 mi from home). Have not been able to coordinate a drop off to them yet. I've taken the TT out on another 400 mi trip and can notice even more deterioration. So, I'm sure there really is something wrong. Will post with the final outcome alignment numbers etc. Quote per axel was $125. Oh well I was thinking about giving up drinking anyway.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:38 PM   #69
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Boy, were you ever right when you said it would be a specialty shop. I finally did find a shop that can do the work (50 mi from home). Have not been able to coordinate a drop off to them yet. I've taken the TT out on another 400 mi trip and can notice even more deterioration. So, I'm sure there really is something wrong. Will post with the final outcome alignment numbers etc. Quote per axel was $125. Oh well I was thinking about giving up drinking anyway.
I hope that giving up drinking so you can pay for the alignment works for you - I suspect that just owning a RV is enought to drive some people to drinking.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #70
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It's sad circumstances when you can't even afford cheap beer to keep your mind off your troubles. Probably a good thing since it was making me fat...er.
Next will be giving up ice cream at bed time to pay for the new tires. Owning an RV is really a good way to go on a diet
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:38 PM   #71
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$125 per axle sounds steep but it may include having to weld or bend the axle to get things aligned. If not in spec see if you can get the alignment shop to put the cause in writing.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:29 AM   #72
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Oh well I was thinking about giving up drinking anyway.
Woe, lets not go off the deep end! we all need our coping devices.
Maybe you could convince the wife to skip that next shoe sale.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:25 AM   #73
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$125 per axle sounds steep but it may include having to weld or bend the axle to get things aligned. If not in spec see if you can get the alignment shop to put the cause in writing.
I'm thinking of taking the TT to a tire shop a good friend runs, just to see if he thinks it's alignment or possibly something else. It's a no cost look see and objective since his shop can't do trailers anyway. Just because I've done a couple of "caveman" checks with a straight edge and I can't see anything really out of line. Plus the alignment guy is an 8 to 5 shop and not really convenient at 50 miles from the house. Might save a couple of hundred bucks. Might just be a delay tactic and wishful thinking
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:10 AM   #74
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Just a couple of comments. I don't want to step on Tireman9's toes. At least not too hard.

Carlisle tires have been building the special trailer (ST) about as long as any other manufacturer and have been one of the largest OEM suppliers for many years. At least until Goodyear decided to make ST tires.

Most of the data and specification information on the internet about ST tires can be traced back to Carlisle. Discount Tire has been a long time retailer of Carlisle Tires and have posted numerous information about ST tires from the pages of Carlisle's trailer tire data books.

The very first post that started this thread is about 90% - 100% from Carlisle. The reference I'm posting below is directly from Carlisle's new web site and is listed as download #2.

For a long time Carlisle had a 60 MPH speed restriction right in their ST tire warranty along with a statement about always using the maximum amount of air pressure as indicated on the individual tire's sidewalls. It's no longer in their warranty per say but is clearly not recommended to drive over 60 MPH with their ST tires. It's good reading if you use ST tires.


http://www.carlisletransportationproducts.com/cms_files/original/Trailer_Tires__Tips_Best_Practices.pdf

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Old 10-15-2013, 06:54 AM   #75
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Thanks for the link. I'll add it to my library of info.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:48 PM   #76
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I bought Maxmiler load range E and was told they wer made in USA
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:10 PM   #77
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Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire? It is the air pressure not the tire that carries the load so the answer is NO

Please explain the reasoning behind this.
How can that be? That implies that merely inflating a C to 65# would carry the load of an E rated tire. Makes no sense to me.

If an E rated tire is not stronger than a C at the same pressure, why are there different load rated tires?
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:34 AM   #78
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I bought Maxmiler load range E and was told they wer made in USA
Tires should have "Made in xxxxx" molded on the sidewall. If you provide the DOT serial we can tell you the location of the plant that made them.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #79
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Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire? It is the air pressure not the tire that carries the load so the answer is NO

Please explain the reasoning behind this.
How can that be? That implies that merely inflating a C to 65# would carry the load of an E rated tire. Makes no sense to me.

If an E rated tire is not stronger than a C at the same pressure, why are there different load rated tires?
It is the air pressure in the tire (balloon) that transmits the load from the road surface to the wheel.

The "strength" or Load Range of a tire is its ability to hold the pressure. Decades ago there were "ranges" established to replace the old term "Ply Rating" The more plys of cotton (ply material way back when) the more pressure the tire could hold. The more pressure in a tire the more load it can support. To avoid confusion, discrete increments were established so competing tire companies would not be claiming "my tire is stronger because it carries more at 62 than your tire does at 61psi.

A review of Load Inflation tables will show that a LR-C and LR-D and LR-E are rated to carry the same load when inflated to the same pressure.
I did a post on my blog Oct 15 just on this topic with s special pressure plot from a test lab showing that is is not the sidewalls that carry the load.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:06 AM   #80
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I think we all are aware that higher pressures require higher strength tires, thus the different load range tires.
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