Tire changing advice needed for 192RBS Freedom Express

[aray]

Hi,

I need some tire changing advice specific to my model unit, a Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS. I haven't had a flat tire yet, but of course I want to be prepared just in case that happens.

My first thought was to get the Camco Trailer-Aid or Trailer-Aid Plus, so that I could just drive the good tire up onto the ramp, and lift the tandem axle & tire up along with it. However I checked the Amazon reviews, and that product doesn't work with tandem axles that have leaf spring suspension, such as are found on the FE 192RBS, for example:




So that leaves me with jacking up the camper. But I have two questions:

1. Where is the lifting point where it is safe to place a jack? I looked under the RV but there was no obvious place, nor did the frame seem to have any clearly-marked location. Plus, the enclosed-belly skirt attaches to the frame, partially obstructing a part of the frame. In addition, directly in the middle between the two tires is where the pivoting leaf spring suspension attaches, so that can't be the right spot.

2. What jack have others used in this situation? A bottle jack or a scissor jack? Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Ray

[goblerblaster]

Bottle jack under the axle with the flat is what I did. It worked

[NMWildcat]

My friend has one of the newer Trailer Aids, I think they call it a plus model. Has a 1" rubber pad. That provided enough lift for his tandem leaf spring trailer. If you are still a little short, add a 2x6 under the ramp. It really did work.
And even if with all that you are still short, the flat tire has the majority of the weight off of it, so any vehicle or bottle jack only has to lift target tire axle a slight amount.
Still safer and easier on both you and the RV than using only a bottle jack in my opinion.

[aray]

Thanks for your help guys; I'll give that a try. I'll start with the Trailer-Aid Pro, and if that's not enough then add a 2x6. My dad (since deceased) had told me never to lift a vehicle by its axle as that might damage it; however as you said, I can see with most of the weight already off the second axle, a bottle jack shouldn't have to apply too much pressure to lift the second tire.

Thanks! This is a great forum, and I've really learned a lot since joining - my first year out!

Ray

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by aray

Thanks for your help guys; I'll give that a try. I'll start with the Trailer-Aid Pro, and if that's not enough then add a 2x6. My dad (since deceased) had told me never to lift a vehicle by its axle as that might damage it; however as you said, I can see with most of the weight already off the second axle, a bottle jack shouldn't have to apply too much pressure to lift the second tire.

Thanks! This is a great forum, and I've really learned a lot since joining - my first year out!

Ray

He was right if you lift at the wrong place on the axle. Lifting as close to the spring attachment point will not damage the axle. It's WRONG to lift by the center of he axle which some mechanic's and tire shops sometimes do so they can have both wheels off the ground on the axle. Not uncommon to see tire shops lift vehicles with three jacks for tire installation. One under each front corner and one under the differential on the rear. Those axles are a lot stronger than trailer axles but many don't understand and just treat trailers the same as cars/trucks.

[Chuck324]

We used the Trailer-Aid Plus on our Springdale TT that had springs. It worked perfect. I know of others that had to add more spacers to get other tire off the ground. As far as I can remember all the TT springs and shackles work the same way, unless I missed something somewhere, so it should work on yours. Have not needed to try it on our RockWood as of yet. Other than that a jack lifting under a spring mount will work as has been stated by others.

[bzac1954]

Originally Posted by aray

Hi,

I need some tire changing advice specific to my model unit, a Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS. I haven't had a flat tire yet, but of course I want to be prepared just in case that happens.

My first thought was to get the Camco Trailer-Aid or Trailer-Aid Plus, so that I could just drive the good tire up onto the ramp, and lift the tandem axle & tire up along with it. However I checked the Amazon reviews, and that product doesn't work with tandem axles that have leaf spring suspension, such as are found on the FE 192RBS, for example:

Attachment 242605
Attachment 242606

So that leaves me with jacking up the camper. But I have two questions:

1. Where is the lifting point where it is safe to place a jack? I looked under the RV but there was no obvious place, nor did the frame seem to have any clearly-marked location. Plus, the enclosed-belly skirt attaches to the frame, partially obstructing a part of the frame. In addition, directly in the middle between the two tires is where the pivoting leaf spring suspension attaches, so that can't be the right spot.

2. What jack have others used in this situation? A bottle jack or a scissor jack? Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Ray

I have the same alxe configuration. Surveyor 247 BHDS and I just changed a broken leaf spring by leaving the stabilizer jack retracted and jacking the TT up from there. I used a floor jack but a single bottle hydraulic jack and cribbing will work.

[Tundra 2014]

I use the Andersen ramp and it works well on my flat bed and TT. I have 15" tires on 1 and 14" on the other.

[CedarCreekWoody]

I had the same problem with mine, and it is the plus model. I added the 2x6 base and it was still short. I then added the 2x6 "shoes" and that worked.

[Chuck324]

CedarCreekWoody, That looks great. I think Trailer Aid should be making them that size anyway. May have to modify mine.

[Tundra 2014]

I believe the Andersen is taller and longer compared to the Trailer Aid. I carry it in my trailer and use it for a tongue jack stand when camping. It actually has a space on the side of the ramp to use it for this. I like the wood shoe idea as the plastic ramps can slide on gravel or wet grass.

[Mandog]

I haven’t sprang for the blocks yet. I use a bottle jack. I fabricated the proper amount of blocks to use under the frame nearest the affected wheel. I put the stabilizer jacks down on the affected side as a safety.
Never jack under the axles on these travel trailers. The axle just isn’t designed to suspend the weight at the tiny jacking point.

[dieselguy]

On about any RV forum they cuss and discuss whether to place the jack under the axle or not. I well agree not to place the jack under the center of the axle because it can bend it placed there. Stating that placing a jack under the axle say in-between the UBolts will cause harm just isn't true. I have access to portable scales using load cells. You have to remember that your trailer is sitting on 4 tires and another two front legs if a fiver and another tongue jack if a TT. The weight of the RV is spread out over all these, so as in my case ... having a @ 13000# fiver ... I have a load cell measured 2684# sitting on the jack when I jack the tire up about 1" which is well enough to change a tire. Of course the more you jack it up, the more the load cell will register as you are continuing to unload the weight of other points via the suspension. If you have a 7000# TT the weight will be much less. Many of us use say a 6 ton jack placed under a UBolt or fab little angle iron jack pads that cradle the axle tube and sits in-between the UBolts. Cutting to the chase ... it won't hurt your axle and you won't have to lift the entire side of your fiver up a foot by jacking the frame and hunting around for cribbing.

PS ... the devises listed in above replies work as well ... if you can get the good tire high enough.

[tande]

Originally Posted by aray

Hi,

I need some tire changing advice specific to my model unit, a Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS. I haven't had a flat tire yet, but of course I want to be prepared just in case that happens.

My first thought was to get the Camco Trailer-Aid or Trailer-Aid Plus, so that I could just drive the good tire up onto the ramp, and lift the tandem axle & tire up along with it. However I checked the Amazon reviews, and that product doesn't work with tandem axles that have leaf spring suspension, such as are found on the FE 192RBS, for example:

Attachment 242605
Attachment 242606

So that leaves me with jacking up the camper. But I have two questions:

1. Where is the lifting point where it is safe to place a jack? I looked under the RV but there was no obvious place, nor did the frame seem to have any clearly-marked location. Plus, the enclosed-belly skirt attaches to the frame, partially obstructing a part of the frame. In addition, directly in the middle between the two tires is where the pivoting leaf spring suspension attaches, so that can't be the right spot.

2. What jack have others used in this situation? A bottle jack or a scissor jack? Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Ray

May I ask? .......what are the red/orange segments attached around the wheel? ......Thanks

[Jfkmk]

I jack up my192 RBS with the scissor jack that came with my F150.

[Fish N Farm]

First off, changing a tire on the side of the road may be the most dangerous thing that you ever do in your life.

To start from the beginning get that baby to a safe place first. Drag it on the rim as far as you have too. Get it as far off the road as you can. Consider dropping the right tires off the shoulder if you are going to be changing the left side. I know all of this sounds silly but think about the YOYO's with their but ganging out in a moving lane of traffic changing a tire. Keep all of your changing tools and the spare on the right side if you can. Most spares will be on the back bumper or on the tongue. If you have a big fiver and it is in a bay be sure it is on the right side even if you have to move it. When you start the dash of death have everything with you. Now for the tools. I would buy an electric scissor jack or hydraulic bottle jack. I know you are a tuff guy and can jack that baby up. Put the jack right in the center of the spring rocker between the tires and jack it up That's not the issue. If your jack will fit directly under the springs then Jack it up there. More than likely the failed tire has let the axle drop too low to get under it there. I carry an 1/2" drive cordless impact with sockets to fit TV and trailer tires. I would buy a brand name one from a big box store. I have a 18V Ryobi and it will break any lug nut I have came up against. I have a torque wrench and I played with the torque until the clutch over ride matched the torque wrench and wrote that down. I turn the clutch all the way up backing the nuts off then reset it to tighten them down. Am I lazy? some, the main thing is you need to spend as little time as you can with your big but hung out in a moving lane of traffic. This sounds bad but if the tire and wheel is wasted. Drag it off the road as far as you can and leave it. It is going to be smoking hot if you executed the NASCAR style tire change I described here. A junk recovered tire and wheel has no monetary value especially to a wife and kids with no dad or husband. One other thing get the CHINA letters off the side of your tires including the spare.

[Comanchecreek]

I don't see a problem with a bottle jack under the spring mount. You are only lifting the weight of the wheel and tire and the end of the axle. If that will bend anything, those axles aren't staying straight at the next bump. The problem can be, when the tire is flat you may not be able to get the jack under the axle. You may have to raise the trailer on that side, and thus the trailer aids would come in handy. I would just use my leveling blocks to drive up on, and then use the bottle jack. I actually carry a smaller 2 ton floor jack. Low profile, and has a number of uses such as supporting my step when long term camping, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Lift-F-76...s%2C211&sr=8-6

Doesn't take up a ton of room, and saves having to crawl under the trailer as far.
Also search the many posts on tires. The biggest trick is to not have to change a tire on the side of the road. I agree with the post by FishNFarm above that says, it may be the most dangerous thing you ever do.

[aray]

Awesome replies by everyone; thanks! This gives me a lot of options to consider.

And I agree with Fish N Farm that this is extremely dangerous. Alas it's possible you can be stuck in the middle of nowhere on a busy highway by yourself and you have no choice. Even so, his words of caution about how to do this as quickly and as safely as possible are "words to live by".

Thanks again,

Ray

[Fish N Farm]

The ones that fit under the good tire. If the spring equalizer is too far from the frame it won't get you enough clearance to get the bad tire off and the spare on. There are many of the type shown below out there. I have never used one. It would be nice to see if someone out there has actually used one. We don't care about what you neighbor or brother says or what you think about them unless you have actually used one. This ain't Face Book or Twitter we need the facts. Like all other things we buy these should be checked out in camp driveway or Wally world parking lot before you risk your life trying to learn how to use it. Thank you.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...D2&FORM=VDQVAP

[Fish N Farm]

Chinese jack to change Chinese tire? I have a PUP and don't have room for a floor jack. I use a scissor jack and I switch vehicles when I go somewhere in the Jeep. The jack and my impact stay in my truck at all other times. Someone posted better to have good tires than a good way to change one. That is correct. I didn't go with the drive on one because I can't use it in the front of my truck. I have a HY-LIFT jack mounted on my jeep and it will pick it up easy but it is too slow on the highway. A drive on that fits under the axle would work on it. I may just buy one and try it at home.