Torque wrench

[5picker]

Originally Posted by babock

I used to have harbor freight torque wrenches. That is until I was doing suspension work on my car and snapped a fastener. Turns out it was off by over 50%

I threw them all away and bought CDI which are made by snap on. I own 5 different torque wrenches of various sizes and types. For the trailer, I bought a cheaper wrench since lug nuts don't need the exact precision but it's way better than HF.

And I had a Snap-On that was snapping off head bolts.
Turns out it was off by over 30#

My point... any of them can have issues.

[babock]

My point... might as well start out with the higher quality tool in the first place

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

.

Originally Posted by 5picker

And I had a Snap-On that was snapping off head bolts.
Turns out it was off by over 30#

My point... any of them can have issues.

[AbdRahim]

I have two and don't trust them. I could never get them to click. The small one from AutoZone and the large one I got from Amazon.

[AbdRahim]

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

.[/QUOTE]

Are you supposed too?

[007matman]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

.

I do and Yes.

[SlowrideHD]

[/QUOTE]
Are you supposed too?[/QUOTE]

Absolutely! Never leave your torque wrench dialed up since that will effect its calibration over time.

[AbdRahim]

Thanks, I did not know that. Mine are probably ruined as I haven't used them in years, since I could never seem to get them to work.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by babock

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

I set my mechanical torque wrenches back to zero when not in use. The electronic ones are shut off and otherwise need no fiddling for storage.

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Sticker on my trailer say 100 ft-lbs. My torque wrench doesn't go up to 100 ft-lbs. So I stand on a wrench 0.4 feet away from the socket to exert 100 ft-lbs. (I am 250 lbs. torque = force applied at 90 degree angle (perpendicular) x radius (distance from pivot point, or lug nut). 100 ft lbs/250 lbs (ME!) = fraction of foot distance from lug nut to exert force.

Stand on does not mean jump on it, just exert a smooth downward pressure until nut stops rotating.

See? Physics can be fun!

Ouch! Too much math for my old brain. And too much pressure on my old knees haha


But Thanks

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

Thanks, I did not know that. Mine are probably ruined as I haven't used them in years, since I could never seem to get them to work.

See post #22 for a "How To" on re-calibration.
If two different torque wrenches would never click for you, I don't think you were using them correctly.

[D W]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

.

Are you supposed too?[/QUOTE]

Yes. Leaving the torque wrench "loaded" will effect the linear torque calibration. I remember back in day, in the military, if you had an Inspection and they found a torque wrench in the tool room that was not zeroed, you failed the Tools & Test portion of the Maintenance Inspection.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by babock

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.
.

I have been setting mine to zero for about 6 months, thanks to a previous torque thread. I had not done it for years. Interestingly, when I calibrated it, it was only off by about 10%.

[CNYCamper]

Originally Posted by BehindBars

Although a lot of suggestions followed on how to find HF coupons, I'm pretty sure CNYCamper has no trouble. "Rare", in quotes, was probably just a bit of humor.

Yes, I was kidding. But the responses were sincere so are appreciated and maybe helped someone out.

[babock]

That is a lot!

Of course it also depends on where you are in it's range.

Originally Posted by bedubya

I have been setting mine to zero for about 6 months, thanks to a previous torque thread. I had not done it for years. Interestingly, when I calibrated it, it was only off by about 10%.

[IchLiebeBier]

Please make sure you use it correctly (you may know this already, so sorry if you do).

The first time I ever used one, I asked an auto hobby shop staff mechanic to show me how. I was told to turn it until it clicked, and the guy watched me do it. He said, yes, that was right. Turns out, I continued to turn it after the click, thinking it had released the pressure, and wouldn't turn any more. Told that was right.

My current wrenches quite clearly say to turn it slowly until it clicks AND NO MORE; otherwise it will over-torque the nut.

Result from my first experience...sheared off lug nuts.

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by bedubya

See post #22 for a "How To" on re-calibration.
If two different torque wrenches would never click for you, I don't think you were using them correctly.

I guess. I set it to the desired number, but it did not click.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier

turn it slowly until it clicks AND NO MORE; otherwise it will over-torque the nut.

It will only click once!


They should also be torqued incrementally and in a star pattern. Since my target is 100 ft-lbs, I typically torque to about 50 when I put the wheel on the hub. Then let it down on the ground and go up to 75, then 100 (always in the star pattern).

[IchLiebeBier]

Not the one I used on the lug nuts. It clicked multiple times (or at least made a sound like a ratchet being pull back) after reaching the setting.

I haven't tested my current ones to see if they'll click more after reaching the set ft-lbs. It's more like a snap than ratchet clicking on these.

[AFDON]

Originally Posted by babock

My point... might as well start out with the higher quality tool in the first place

Wonder how many people set their torque wrenches back to 0 when they aren't using them.

.

Have for 30 years. No problem with any of the 3 I own. And it states to do that reset in all 3 manuals, maybe should ask "how many read the manuals?"

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier

Not the one I used on the lug nuts. It clicked multiple times (or at least made a sound like a ratchet being pull back) after reaching the setting.

I haven't tested my current ones to see if they'll click more after reaching the set ft-lbs. It's more like a snap than ratchet clicking on these.

Most of the "clickable" torque wrenches that I have see also have ratchet heads on them - so they will make that ratcheting sound when turned "backwards".

Sadly, because they have ratchet heads, it is possible to use them to *loosen* things as well. This is a bad idea. Only use your ratcheting torque wrench to tighten. Ever.

As for the actual torquing, you set the wrench to your desired torque, usually by twisting the end of the handle, and then smoothly tighten the fastener in a single motion until you hear and feel a noticeable single "click". The handle will seem to "give" a little when it clicks. Do not turn past this point. Also do not tug at the handle - you want a smooth rotation. If you have limited space to turn the handle, and it clicks right as you get to the end of the handle's travel, loosen that fastener and try again. A torque wrench is only accurate if the fastener is turning as it reaches target torque.

This is the reason that some people recommend loosening fasteners before re-torquing - it takes more force to start the fastener turning than it does to keep it moving. You have to overcome friction and inertia to get it turning. So you could have a lug nut sitting at 90ft/lbs, set your wrench to 100ft/lbs, and have it click without moving because it needs more than the 10ft/lbs difference to overcome the friction of the nut agains the threads of the lug and the surface of the wheel.

I have run into cases when building engines where a bolt will "click" and then "unclick" and continue to rotate - almost always because it ran into a burr in the threads, or a washer stuck on something and then released. Always best in that case to take it back apart and figure out what just happened - chase the threads, polish off any high spots in the seating area, etc.

The reality is that most people *don't* do it that way, and no harm comes to them. Let's face it - this isn't rocket surgery, and in most cases it will be good enough for what it is.