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Old 02-19-2011, 12:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by kalik282 View Post
Iggy,
Be careful with that grease you bought from Walmart. It has a drop point 90 degrees below the minimum spec by AL-KO.
It has a drop point of 350 degrees minimum.
That is what the label says.What do you use?
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:42 PM   #22
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Iggy,
I prefer a synthetic grease, and usually buy the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Grease, available at AdvanceAuto ($7.99) and many other places.

Here's a link to the spec sheet for it...
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/SynPower_Grease.pdf
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:31 PM   #23
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Thumbs up

Here's a diagram of the grease flow:

E-Z Lube Axle
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:51 PM   #24
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I know 350 degrees may not be what the manuf . wants but lets get realistic.
If my wheel bearings got to 350 degrees they already failed and the grease whould not liquify until 350 F. So I guess if I have grease that doesn't liquify until 450 F isn't going to help much.
If you keep your bearing greased often they should not wear or fail unless it is a manuf defect and nothing is going to stop it.

Don't get me wrong about the grease. I will try any find one with a higher drop point.
I will keep my trailer speed below 100 mph should help. LOL
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:01 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalik282 View Post
Iggy,
Be careful with that grease you bought from Walmart. It has a drop point 90 degrees below the minimum spec by AL-KO.

Thanks for your input.
Took the grease back and found the stuff I needed.
How is the specs on this one.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Thanks for your input.
Took the grease back and found the stuff I needed.
How is the specs on this one.
Looks good!
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:21 PM   #27
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now you just need to put it in the grease gun and pump the old stuff out LOL
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:09 PM   #28
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The tube says not to mix different types of grease, how do you know if it is compatable with what is in there already?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:32 PM   #29
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The tube says not to mix different types of grease, how do you know if it is compatable with what is in there already?
The color of the original grease from the factory is black and this new stuff is red. It is all Class 2 grease and all you are doing is flushing out the lines and the bearing races until you see all red grease.

Is that what you are looking for?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:38 PM   #30
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Types of grease is not the same as brands of grease. As long as they meet the specs; color (or brand) does not matter.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:39 AM   #31
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I'll probably get flamed for saying this but here goes......
We're talking about grease and wheel bearings.
Not changing the oil in your engine.
As far as I'm concerned, grease does not normally wear
out. As long as it's not contaminated or very old it's
going to be fine.

I for one am not going to try to "flush" out my hubs every
year. Just not gonna do it. I changed bearings and seals
last spring and I'm satisfied they are as full of new grease
as can be so I'm done for a couple years.
After that I may pump some new stuff in there from
time to time but I'm not going to try to run a half
cartridge thru the fitting!

My 2

Oh yeah, bearings are "color blind"
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:04 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I'll probably get flamed for saying this but here goes......
We're talking about grease and wheel bearings.
Not changing the oil in your engine.
As far as I'm concerned, grease does not normally wear
out. As long as it's not contaminated or very old it's
going to be fine.

I for one am not going to try to "flush" out my hubs every
year. Just not gonna do it. I changed bearings and seals
last spring and I'm satisfied they are as full of new grease
as can be so I'm done for a couple years.
After that I may pump some new stuff in there from
time to time but I'm not going to try to run a half
cartridge thru the fitting!

My 2

Oh yeah, bearings are "color blind"

No flaming here. Totally agree.
Got a kick out of "bearings are color blind"
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
The color of the original grease from the factory is black and this new stuff is red. It is all Class 2 grease and all you are doing is flushing out the lines and the bearing races until you see all red grease.

Is that what you are looking for?
I am going to be doing mine when enough snow melts to get it out of storage. Was wondering if I had to worry about the new grease being compatable with what is in there. I like the idea of the different colors so you know the new grease has filled the color blind bearing.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:51 AM   #34
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As part of our "Pre-Departure" checklist I tried to hit a few pumps of grease into the bearings, but it was so cold the Zerks were clogged and would not open. About half way to our first campground, I pulled over for gas and made sure there was plenty of grease in the bearings after they warmed up for a while.

Resist the temptation to BLAST the grease into a cold hub with pressure or a "Zerk Fitting Opening Tool" as you will blast grease out the rear seal and really make a mess for yourself.

I learned that tip here, but I forget who it was.
Thank you again, whoever it was.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:20 PM   #35
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I also learned not to use an air powered grease gun. It blasted so much grease past the seals on my last camper my wheels were splattered with grease and my brake pads got contaminated.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:45 PM   #36
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I WOULD BE CAREFULL / CHECK W/ MANUFACTURE
TO MUCH GREASE IN HUB WILL EASE OUT TO THE BAKES
CAUSING THEM TO FAIL
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJW View Post
I WOULD BE CAREFULL / CHECK W/ MANUFACTURE
TO MUCH GREASE IN HUB WILL EASE OUT TO THE BAKES
CAUSING THEM TO FAIL
the ezlubes are open on the outside. if u over do it, it should just come back out the nut end. the end cap (cover) isn't solid. it has a rubber (can't spell neoprene) dust cover to access the cert. pressure should push out this end.

i'm in the process of replacing brakes, with self adj type (was told they offer them). bearings look good. seals aren't leaking but will be replaced.

grease doesn't wear out but it can become contaminated or dry out. doesn't hurt to pump a couple of strokes every so often just to change the position of the grease.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:23 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJW View Post
I WOULD BE CAREFULL / CHECK W/ MANUFACTURE
TO MUCH GREASE IN HUB WILL EASE OUT TO THE BAKES
CAUSING THEM TO FAIL
Hi DJW, we have checked-- most of the conversation in
this thread involves knowledgeable folks who have
read the instructions.

Please shut off your caps lock key and don't yell at us,
we can hear you just fine.

We all pretty much agree that greasing your "ez lube" hubs
should be done in warm weather with a hand pump
gun and IMO you should slowly rotate the wheel while
you slowly pump in the grease.

If you are just "topping up" don't bother to raise and
rotate the wheel.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:37 PM   #39
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I got one for you guys - since we are talking about Al Ko axles - I have to say I am impressed with there customer service

one of my rubber boots has a slice in it and I went to Al Ko's website last night around 10pm and sent off an email thru their site asking to either purchase the rubber boots or to put me in contact with a local dealer and well at 8:30am this morning they are sending me a couple of the rubber covers - I told them I had just purchased a 2011 Rockwood Mini Lite and didnt notice at delivery that one of the rubber boots was cut - I was surprised and glad they are sending me a cover or two.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:43 PM   #40
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those rubber end covers? (don't know the proper name for them) are easy to come by and inexpensive. can't beet the price if they just send them to u.
picked up the self adj brake assemblies today; weather will delay installation though.
when u go to replace ur seals, take ur old one with u. they have a couple that are close. (i learned my lesson from buying auto parts. hate to get home and it doesn't match).
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