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Old 06-28-2011, 07:57 PM   #81
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finally got around to checking my axles - found one wheel was really loose - I took the metal cover off to gain access to the cotter pin - apparently the cotter pin twisted and allowed the nut to spin so had to get a new cotter pin since I tore it up trying to get it out. I tightened the nut and reinstalled a new cotter pin. All Good now - didnt feel like driving 200 miles for a 20 minute deal that I knew I could fix.

I bought the Amsoil Red grease with a boiling pint of 540 degrees.

I used a whole tube just to fill the gap in grease between three of the axles - the 4th axle I think needs a new Zerk fitting cause when I tried pushing grease into it - the red grease comes out the side of the fitting and I never feel it being pushed into the axle like the other one's did.

Also found another rubber boot has a crack in it so gotta change yet another one - glad they sent me 4 or I would be back ont he phone with Al-Ko trying to get more.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:09 PM   #82
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Maybe a little off topic but I 'topped off' before I left on my current trip. When I was finished with each wheel I found it difficult to remove the pump. Is there a trick I am missing? Or is it normally
Difficult?
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:21 PM   #83
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Lee,

The fitting that goes on the Zerk is spring loaded and is difficult to get on, but you have leverage working for you getting it on. Getting it off is a different critter all together. The spring fitting is locked on so that the grease under pressure does not pop it off. You don't have the leverage normally to pull it off. Wiggling it to the side will do it but I worry about breaking the fitting. I have a small forked nail puller that I use to get between the grease fitting and the Zerk. A little "bump" and it pops right off.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:56 PM   #84
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Just returned from 5 days at Ocean Lakes, had a great time. Thanks Herk I will give that a shot
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:43 AM   #85
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The tip on my grease gun twists to tighten/loosen. I loosen, slide it on the zirk and tighten it up. To remove, loosen again and it slides right off. I think most grease gun fittings work the same way.
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Old 07-02-2011, 12:08 PM   #86
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The tip on my grease gun twists to tighten/loosen. I loosen, slide it on the Zerk and tighten it up. To remove, loosen again and it slides right off. I think most grease gun fittings work the same way.
Get out of Dodge!

I learn something new here every day.
I will definitely have to check that out.
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Old 07-02-2011, 02:18 PM   #87
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I have always used the Mobil 1 red synthetic grease on anything that needs grease with good results...
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:50 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet View Post
The tip on my grease gun twists to tighten/loosen. I loosen, slide it on the zirk and tighten it up. To remove, loosen again and it slides right off. I think most grease gun fittings work the same way.

X2

Beat me to it but yes, many do turn to tighten / loosen on the zerk fitting.
I hate to say it, but often I'm in a hurry and just push/pull them off instead.

They also make a right angle grease gun fitting as well which is great to greasing your TV front end parts too (see attached photo).
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:52 PM   #89
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The tip on my grease gun twists to tighten/loosen. I loosen, slide it on the zirk and tighten it up. To remove, loosen again and it slides right off. I think most grease gun fittings work the same way.
I also didn't know that. WOW!
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:25 PM   #90
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Ok, so I pumped my bearings full of Lucas Red And Tacky #2. It has a drop point over 500 degrees. I pumped and spun the wheels until nothing but red came out. So at this point I was happy and thought, one more thing off the list, right. Until I went to take the grease gun out of my tool tote in my SUV and the grease gun lost a bunch of grease when it became liquid. I now have pink liquid in my tote and am wondering if it also goes to liquid so easily in my bearings. Is it supposed to do that at such a low temp? Do I need to change grease and re- do my bearings again? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:44 AM   #91
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Ok, so I pumped my bearings full of Lucas Red And Tacky #2. It has a drop point over 500 degrees. I pumped and spun the wheels until nothing but red came out. So at this point I was happy and thought, one more thing off the list, right. Until I went to take the grease gun out of my tool tote in my SUV and the grease gun lost a bunch of grease when it became liquid. I now have pink liquid in my tote and am wondering if it also goes to liquid so easily in my bearings. Is it supposed to do that at such a low temp? Do I need to change grease and re- do my bearings again? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
I'm another user of Lucas R&T. Good experience with this stuff and it tends to stay with the bearing better than some alternatives. Re the liquid coming from your grease gun, release the pressure from the gun's piston when you're done greasing and there should be very little or no liquid discharge. Grease, generally, is oil with soap (lithium etc) and if left under pressure will cause the oil to separate from its suspension with the soap.
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:24 PM   #92
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Thank you! I was worried the same thing would happen to the bearings. I did not know about the pressure in the grease gun doing that.

Thank you once again.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:51 PM   #93
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I have replaced the bearings in my last TT and now with my Rockwood 5ver with Timken brand bearings and races. In my last TT I was doing the regular maintenance and 'flushing' the grease out and found flecks of metal in one hub. The made in China races started to flake away, even with plenty of grease. With the 5ver, it used the same bearings so I figured for less than $150 for bearings and races i'ts cheap insurance.

With the Timkens, I'm using Timken Premium All Purpose Industrial LC-2 grease which has a dropping point of 500F ...and if you want to talk about paranoid... I carry a full set of tools (seal pullers, brass punch, seal drifting tool) and the parts to rebuild a hub... this year I bought a complete drum just to have one on hand... I run with the decorative hub caps off... and at every stop, I check the hubs with infra red thermometer. Mind you if I lose the spindle I'm screwed
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:31 PM   #94
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Wow: this was a fabulous tread with tons of helps. I was just ready to lube my bearings and looking how to do it. Now I dont have to go farther.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:15 PM   #95
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X2... thank you Herk for starting it and all for adding your help
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:51 PM   #96
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Aluminum wheel center caps

I have the Ultra Lube fitting in the wheel caps on my new 5th wheel, but I can't get to them. The aluminum option wheels that came with the unit has a small center cap in the wheel cap, but I can't get it off. Is there a trick to get this off to gain access to the zerk fitting without ruining the nice chrome cap? I've tried carefully prying the access cap but no luck and I'm afraid of going any farther. Don't really want to pull the wheels at this point....
thanks, Jeff
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:22 PM   #97
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This is how my wheels look like and they have a screw (see red circle) that needs to be removed for access to the fitting.

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Old 10-06-2011, 09:38 PM   #98
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I have the Ultra Lube fitting in the wheel caps on my new 5th wheel, but I can't get to them. The aluminum option wheels that came with the unit has a small center cap in the wheel cap, but I can't get it off. Is there a trick to get this off to gain access to the zerk fitting without ruining the nice chrome cap? I've tried carefully prying the access cap but no luck and I'm afraid of going any farther. Don't really want to pull the wheels at this point....
thanks, Jeff
this is what they look like. don't know if i am qualified to tell u how to remove them (i broke 3 on this one).
i would try to find the tabs and push in gently with a screw driver and pry up (gently). i got a little too rough with this one. they are from a 2002 trailer so they may be getting brittle. didn't break the others.

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Old 10-07-2011, 04:48 AM   #99
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FRANKM's picture-------

If you remove the chrome hubcap as in FRANKM's picture, make sure you use a square tipped tool to remove the Phillips screw. If you use a Phillips screw driver, you may burr the screw head to the point of not being able to remove it.

How do I know? Just ask ME!
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:58 PM   #100
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Checked my trailer today and found 1 zerk just floating around in the hub and the other 3 very loose and about to fall out. Going to purchase 2 tubes of grease (Nitro-Red) and flush out the old grease until I only see red. At the same time I plan to adjust the brakes.

Again thanks for everyone on this forum. Without your wonderful posts I wouldn't know to look for these type of issues.

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