Used trailer, new brakes, not working.

[willie1280]

Last week I purchased a 2011 Jensen 18' enclosed tandem axle trailer from a local auction house. They said the hubs and brakes were replaced, which they appear to have been. However, as i pulled away from the lot I squeezed the break controller that's build into my truck and got zero response.

After getting home and looking closer, i am wondering if the breakaway system could be the culpret? The break away switch appears to be damaged and the break away box doesn't look pretty either in terms of the circuit board and battery that's in it. Would these faulty components prevent the electric brakes from working?

See photos below.

[CHICKDOE]

i guess anything is possible but the break away switch and battery have (or should have) no impact on normal braking action when towing. the power to actuate the brakes comes from the tow vehicle. obviously a break in the wires that transfers power from the tow vehicle to the brake magnets would render the brakes inoperable.

[willie1280]

Photos

[Lins]

Do any of the lights work? That break away does look in rough shape but as CHICKDOE said, that shouldn't affect the braking performance. Is there a junction box installed where you can start putting a meter on wires? See if there's braking power from the plug to the junction box and you can also see if there's continuity after the junction box. If it were me I would just cut one of the wires from the break away and go from there.

[TitanMike]

First thing I'd do is trace each wire using a meter or test light to see if it's wired properly. Just assuming a trailer that's in that condition is wired like it should be is a leap of faith.

[willie1280]

All the lights work.

I currently have the gain set to 3 on my truck because that's what i use for my 5vr. I'm wondering if i need to crank that up to get it to kick in?

I did notice on my brake controller screen within my dash on my chevy truck that when i applied the brakes the little bar moved. Would it do that if the brakes weren't hooked up properly?

[Lins]

Originally Posted by willie1280

All the lights work.

I currently have the gain set to 3 on my truck because that's what i use for my 5vr. I'm wondering if i need to crank that up to get it to kick in?

I did notice on my brake controller screen within my dash on my chevy truck that when i applied the brakes the little bar moved. Would it do that if the brakes weren't hooked up properly?

I don't know about your GM but our Ram won't apply the brakes if it doesn't 'see' the trailer. Our brake controller needs to sense a working brake circuit for it to see a trailer hooked up.

[tom39]

IMO, the break-away and battery should not have anything to do with not having brakes.

I would begin by testing the feed to the brake magnet and then move on from there.
Do you have a clamp on amp meter? If so, measure the amperage at the lead going to the brake magnet. It should read somewhere around 3A at max output of the controller.
If it doesn't, then you may have a wiring issue.
If it does, ensure that the brakes are adjusted properly and then begin the process of burnishing your brakes.

Hope it helps

[Blue Timber]

I had the exact same problem and went through all the steps stated here.

The answer is most RV dealerships are ignorant of what the sell! (May be harsh but frustration is a bugger) The problem is the brakes are not yet properly broke in. Here is a link to the Lippert break in procedure. I was scared to run my trailer till I did this. Now it works perfectly.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001947.pdf

[GFD47]

What Blue Timber said. I had my brakes professionally replaced and five miles down the road took my TT back because they weren't working. The mechanic told me it was the need to wear the shoes in and removed a wheel to show me that everything was working. I did several miles of "laps" on low speed local streets near the shop until I was satisfied that they had, indeed, begun to work as intended. That was two or three years ago...still work fine. Scary when I first had to stop for a red light on a 35 MPH arterial though.

[willie1280]

Thanks everyone...i'll do some checking and test driving tonight.

Anyone know what that round enclosure is in the last photo? When i take the cover off, there's just 2 little springs hanging inside and nothing else.

[Bama Rambler]

It looks like the plunger is missing from the breakaway switch. If that's the case then the breakaway will backfeed 12 volts to the break controller in the truck, and most controllers don't like that at all. And on some vehicles it will actually damage the controller beyond repair.

[TimVWulp]

The breaks may have never been adjusted properly when the shoes were replaced!!! The breaks also need to be adjusted every 3000 miles if they don't have self adjusters in the break drum. You may need to do a break/bearing inspection to see what was really done by the last person that worked on it. Battery looks to be in rough shape and with the plunger missing in the break a way switch it could draw all the power/voltage to brakes if the battery is discharged.

Hope this helps Tim

[SailorSam20500]

Possibly a dumb question. If the break-away switch is bad, could it have actuated the brakes long enough to burn up the brake magnets? I thought I'd read that could happen. Shoes and drums would look fine, just not work.
Just a thought from a guy who doesn't really have a clue.

[Harkerr]

Need to make sure there is current going to the brake magnets. I would fix the break away circuit first.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Blue Timber

I had the exact same problem and went through all the steps stated here.

The answer is most RV dealerships are ignorant of what the sell! (May be harsh but frustration is a bugger) The problem is the brakes are not yet properly broke in. Here is a link to the Lippert break in procedure. I was scared to run my trailer till I did this. Now it works perfectly.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001947.pdf

... but this is not an RV and it wasn't bought at an RV dealership. OP wrote "enclosed tandem axle trailer from a local auction house...."

[tom39]

Originally Posted by willie1280

Thanks everyone...i'll do some checking and test driving tonight.

Anyone know what that round enclosure is in the last photo? When i take the cover off, there's just 2 little springs hanging inside and nothing else.

The round enclosure is often times used as a document holder for registration and insurance information.

[TheWolfPaq82]

The whole thing looks like its TOAST. From the boards to the switch I'd start over with NEW.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by willie1280

Thanks everyone...i'll do some checking and test driving tonight.

Anyone know what that round enclosure is in the last photo? When i take the cover off, there's just 2 little springs hanging inside and nothing else.

Our work trailers all had that. Its to put the legal paper work for the trailer in to keep with the trailer and dry. Insurance card and registration card.

[Bob2019]

I've replaced the break-away switch when they get old and crusty. They are cheap.