Weak brakes after bearing repack

[chiraldude]

I have a 2019 single Lippert axel FR trailer. I repacked the bearings and now have weaker braking. What I mean by weaker is that when new, the trailer brakes would lock up f I maxed out the controller gain. Now, they won't lock up. I took everything back apart and sprayed and wiped the shoes, drums, and magnets with brake clean to make sure there was no residual grease. Then I put things back together and readjusted the brakes. Tightened till I could barely move the drum then backed off until there was lite resistance. I then drove about 3 miles with 4-5 hard braking stops.
Maybe a little better but not by much. Shoes are worn about 50%. There is noticeable braking force and the drums are heating up, just not as good as new. For completeness, I measured the current and I get about 7 amps max from the controller and 8 amps if I pull the emergency cable.
What am I missing???

[Aussieguy]

what did you use to "spray and wipe" the brake shoe material and drums



sounds like contaminated shoes, there should be no oils / grease on either the shoes or the drums

[chiraldude]

Stated in the OP, Brake clean. Smelled the same as carb/choke cleaner. (lots of Toluene)

[chiraldude]

If it turns out that shoes need to be replaced, how would I find the right part number? Pretty sure I have a Lippert 3,500lb axel but no actual part number.
When I search for parts, all I find are complete brake kits, not just shoes.

[jeff64]

Go to etrailer. A complete brake assy is what you want.

[Falcon900Guy]

Originally Posted by jeff64

Go to etrailer. A complete brake assy is what you want.

Complete brake assembly?

That seems a total waste of money if all he should do is replace the pads or shoes. Assemblies tend to last for a looooooong time.
I would tend to believe that during the process, the OP managed to get some air in the line and might need to bleed the system.

[chiraldude]

A complete brake assembly is definitely not what I want! A set of shoes would be $40, 2 complete brake kits would be $300.
I see no reason to replace the entire assembly unless the magnets were shot for example but even then, couldn't you just replace the magnets?

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by Falcon900Guy

Complete brake assembly?

That seems a total waste of money if all he should do is replace the pads or shoes. Assemblies tend to last for a looooooong time.
I would tend to believe that during the process, the OP managed to get some air in the line and might need to bleed the system.

How do you bleed electric brakes?!? Would blinker fluid work to replace the electric brake fluid bled from the system?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Falcon900Guy

Complete brake assembly?

That seems a total waste of money if all he should do is replace the pads or shoes. Assemblies tend to last for a looooooong time.
I would tend to believe that during the process, the OP managed to get some air in the line and might need to bleed the system.

The OP has a single axle trailer with electric brakes. Nothing to bleed and no chance of air.

To the OP... you might rough up the shoe surface area and the drum area and try re-burnishing the brakes but if they are 50% used, I'd simply replace for the effort needed to disassemble.

[Falcon900Guy]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

How do you bleed electric brakes?!? Would blinker fluid work to replace the electric brake fluid bled from the system?

I guess that you are just smarter than me. No where in the OP post does it mention electric brakes and I darn sure don't know which units have electric and which have fluid. The mention of brakes shoes and drums took my mo0nd back to the old fluid type brakes so that's the reason.

Should have joined the Nave instead of the Army then I would have known better.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by chiraldude

I have a 2019 single Lippert axel FR trailer. I repacked the bearings and now have weaker braking. What I mean by weaker is that when new, the trailer brakes would lock up f I maxed out the controller gain. Now, they won't lock up. I took everything back apart and sprayed and wiped the shoes, drums, and magnets with brake clean to make sure there was no residual grease. Then I put things back together and readjusted the brakes. Tightened till I could barely move the drum then backed off until there was lite resistance. I then drove about 3 miles with 4-5 hard braking stops.
Maybe a little better but not by much. Shoes are worn about 50%. There is noticeable braking force and the drums are heating up, just not as good as new. For completeness, I measured the current and I get about 7 amps max from the controller and 8 amps if I pull the emergency cable.
What am I missing???

Originally Posted by Falcon900Guy

I guess that you are just smarter than me. No where in the OP post does it mention electric brakes and I darn sure don't know which units have electric and which have fluid. The mention of brakes shoes and drums took my mo0nd back to the old fluid type brakes so that's the reason.

Should have joined the Nave instead of the Army then I would have known better.

It's all right there in the original post.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by 5picker

It's all right there in the original post.

Maybe we are missing the amps to psi conversion?

Reminds me when, many years ago, a Maintenance Master Chief (MMCPO) tried to tell a newly commission Aviation Maintenance Officer (O-1 Ensign) that it was time to put the snow tires on the aircraft.

[Falcon900Guy]

Originally Posted by 5picker

The OP has a single axle trailer with electric brakes. Nothing to bleed and no chance of air.

Thanks, I was not aware (and it has been brought to my attention) as I have never had experience with a TT only Class C or A RV.

[Falcon900Guy]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Maybe we are missing the amps to psi conversion?

Reminds me when, many years ago, a Maintenance Master Chief (MMCPO) tried to tell a newly commission Aviation Maintenance Officer (O-1 Ensign) that it was time to put the snow tires on the aircraft.

Well just for your information, I have hydraulic disk brakes (bleedable) on my car (Jeep) and also have a ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER under the seat that is adjustable that is controlled by electricity as to how much I apply brakes in the motorhome as how much brakes hydraulically is applied to Jeep brakes.
I think they call that electro-hydraulics.

Don't be so snarky will ya! I'm ignorant as to brakes on a TT and have admitted it. No I didn't miss the amps to psi conversi0on. Read the above.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by chiraldude

A complete brake assembly is definitely not what I want! A set of shoes would be $40, 2 complete brake kits would be $300.
I see no reason to replace the entire assembly unless the magnets were shot for example but even then, couldn't you just replace the magnets?

The reason for the entire brake backing plate complete set is because the magnets wear . they grip to the drum , the drum forces the magnet to turn applying pressure to the brake shoes .... shop around you will find that either the right or left side will cost twice as much as the other .On another note if you go new either shoes or entire package you will need to wear in the new shoes . the will not grip tight until you brake them in or burnish them or something like that lol

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Falcon900Guy

Well just for your information, I have hydraulic disk brakes (bleedable) on my car (Jeep) and also have a ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER under the seat that is adjustable that is controlled by electricity as to how much I apply brakes in the motorhome as how much brakes hydraulically is applied to Jeep brakes.
I think they call that electro-hydraulics.

Don't be so snarky will ya! I'm ignorant as to brakes on a TT and have admitted it. No I didn't miss the amps to psi conversi0on. Read the above.

You had to mount an actuator in your jeep to allow the brakes to be applied while towing .. we all know cars and trucks have hydraulic brakes , most trailer and 5 th wheels which are really trailers have electric . Many large motorhomes have AIR brakes ... we all learn something new everyday !

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Falcon900Guy

Thanks, I was not aware (and it has been brought to my attention) as I have never had experience with a TT only Class C or A RV.

Yep, we all learn as we go (or hopefully so!) and many folks don't realize all R/Vs are not the same as theirs. We see this often in other systems such as (and I'll just use this as an example) water heaters.

Someone will say how THEIR water heater works (thinking ALL R/Vs are the same) when in reality, the person posing the question may not have the same brand or type.

It's all good and even though you were incorrect about the type brakes the OP has, if you learned something (and possibly others too) then your comment(s) contributed to something useful!

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Maybe we are missing the amps to psi conversion?

Reminds me when, many years ago, a Maintenance Master Chief (MMCPO) tried to tell a newly commission Aviation Maintenance Officer (O-1 Ensign) that it was time to put the snow tires on the aircraft.

I thought they used all season tires ? and isn't it the wings they install the heaters on in winter . don't forget to replace the summer washer fluid with winter fluid .

[doanshop]

did you try adjusting the brakes ? Should be rubber plug in backing plate to get to adjuster .

[5picker]

Originally Posted by chiraldude

I have a 2019 single Lippert axel FR trailer. I repacked the bearings and now have weaker braking. What I mean by weaker is that when new, the trailer brakes would lock up f I maxed out the controller gain. Now, they won't lock up. I took everything back apart and sprayed and wiped the shoes, drums, and magnets with brake clean to make sure there was no residual grease. Then I put things back together and readjusted the brakes. Tightened till I could barely move the drum then backed off until there was lite resistance. I then drove about 3 miles with 4-5 hard braking stops.
Maybe a little better but not by much. Shoes are worn about 50%. There is noticeable braking force and the drums are heating up, just not as good as new. For completeness, I measured the current and I get about 7 amps max from the controller and 8 amps if I pull the emergency cable.
What am I missing???

Originally Posted by doanshop

did you try adjusting the brakes ?

From the original post... (see emboldened above^^)