Wheel Bearing Re-pack question. And extra parts problem.

jimmcg29 · 06-12-2022, 03:09 PM

I have a one-year-old Wildwood trailer with a Lippert axle. I never did this job before, so I watched several YouTube videos until it all made sense.
Before I started, I purchased 4 axle bearing kits from the Lippert website just in case I needed parts along the way. The bearings and everything looked good so all I needed was a seal and a new cotter pin. I got one side of the trailer done and everything seemed to be good.

Doing the 3rd wheel, when I pulled the new seal out of the bag a metal ring fell out. I thought that it was odd that it fell out because nothing fell out of the other seals when I put them in. So, I put the ring in the seal and drove it into the hub with the bearing.

As I was doing the last tire it started to bother me that it was so different than the other ones I had already done. Then I realized when I pulled the seals out of the old one there was no metal part inside of those. None of the videos made any mention of the extra part. So, I just did the final wheel the way I did the other 3 and figured if I need some re-work it will need to wait a day.

So, my question to all you experts, do I need to take off three wheels and replace the seal with a new one and metal piece? Do I need to take one of the wheels off and remove the extra steel part and replace the seal or do I not worry about the extra part and call the job done?

TitanMike · 06-12-2022, 03:21 PM

It sounds like you had a defective seal and installed it anyway.

Seals are one piece assemblies. A metal retainer ring that is driven into the recess in the hub, a "rubber" seal, and small coiled spring "garter" that holds the "rubber" against the spindle for a good seal (all in a single piece).

I'd purchase a new seal and replace the one you replaced in pieces.

dward51 · 06-12-2022, 03:23 PM

I have never seen a metal grease seal with a separate metal ring like you described. Unless you have a very unusual axle on that trailer, it is more likely they had the wrong part in that box from the parts factory. I would order another seal and replace the one that was different. Also I always use Timken/National grease seals. They are the best you can buy on the consumer market.

If you Lippart part number for the grease seal was 122087 (double lip seal 1.72" ID x 2.565" OD), then your Timken/National part will be 473336. This is probably the most common trailer axle seal on the market. Also if it was 122087, that seal should not be in 2 parts like you described.

**Bama Rambler** · 06-12-2022, 04:04 PM

Good quality seals have the 'garter' spring around the lip to help it seal to the shaft. I've had the springs fall out many times. As long as you put it back in the seal correctly, it'll be fine. The OEM seals would have likely not have the springs in them.

TitanMike · 06-12-2022, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Good quality seals have the 'garter' spring around the lip to help it seal to the shaft. I've had the springs fall out many times. As long as you put it back in the seal correctly, it'll be fine. The OEM seals would have likely not have the springs in them.

Actually, the OEM seals on my 2018 model did have the garter springs.
Seals also fit so tight in the hubs it took some serious effort with the seal removal tool.

D W · 06-12-2022, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dward51

I have never seen a metal grease seal with a separate metal ring like you described. Unless you have a very unusual axle on that trailer, it is more likely they had the wrong part in that box from the parts factory. I would order another seal and replace the one that was different. Also I always use Timken/National grease seals. They are the best you can buy on the consumer market.

I wish I had a nickel for every time I've heard this statement because I have never come across any empirical evidence that shows that Timkens are superior to Bower, SKF, Federal-Mogul, etc. I've only heard personal preference.

TitanMike · 06-12-2022, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D W

I wish I had a nickel for every time I've heard this statement because I have never come across any empirical evidence that shows that Timkens are superior to Bower, SKF, Federal-Mogul, etc. I've only heard personal preference.

Same here for bearings. Many would be totally amazed at the number of bearings they think are "made in USA" that have a LOT of Chinese made components.

The bearings in my trailer's hubs are OEM Chinese made and are well into their second set of tires with ~40,000 total miles.

They get inspected every 12k or so and get fresh grease via the EZ-Lube system.

jimmcg29 · 06-13-2022, 07:08 AM

I have a feeling I am not being very clear. Sorry about that. I am adding an image that will probably explain it better. On the left is the old bearing I pulled out of the hub. It is as most describe. Metal on the outside rubber on the inside and a wire ring. This looks exactly like what I replaced 3 of them with. I get the feeling those three wheels are all set.

My question is what is that thing on the right. A solid steel ring. There was no similar part that I took off. When I grabbed the bearing seal out of the bag it was sitting inside the seal. My mistake was thinking it probably was supposed to be inside the seal and I tapped the seal inside the hub with that steel part inside. By the time I took the fourth wheel off I was regretting that move. I was thinking if it did not have one before why I would be adding it now. So, I did the last wheel the way I did the others. I am thinking I should get a new seal for the tire with the extra part and re-seal it. I will go to a local trailer repair store to get the part and see if I can get some advice from them.

With all the research I did this part never made an appearance.

jimmcg29 · 06-13-2022, 07:13 AM

Apparently I am one of those people that don't know how to add a picture because it did not show up.

**Bama Rambler** · 06-13-2022, 07:14 AM

If you can get a picture to post it will probably help a lot.

cboss · 06-13-2022, 07:17 AM

Read post #7 in this thread.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...sics-6778.html

**Bama Rambler** · 06-13-2022, 07:20 AM

Sounds like you're talking about a bearing race. Wheel bearings have two parts (really more, but several come assembled), the cone which has the rollers, cage and inner race, and the outer race which is straight on the outside and tapered on the inside that the cone fits into.

It could be that a race from a different bearing got stuck in the bearing package you got.

jimmcg29 · 06-13-2022, 07:21 AM

I think I got it this time.

**Bama Rambler** · 06-13-2022, 07:24 AM

That shiny thing on the right is an outer race.

CedarCreekWoody · 06-13-2022, 07:28 AM

That ring on the right is the bearing race.

jimmcg29 · 06-13-2022, 07:34 AM

So, if I didn't have an outer race before do I need one now? If I have that inside the seal of one of the wheels I should probably get it out?

One other related question. Is there a good way to test this before my next trip? Would it make sense to go a few miles and take the temp of the hubs? If I did that what would be considered a normal temp?

timfromma · 06-13-2022, 07:54 AM

Races are an absolute necessity. If you didn't see them on the other wheels that's probably because they are still installed inside the hub. Races are what the bearings roll against as the wheel turns. Any attempt to go without them will just about guarantee a catastrophic wheel failure after a very short time.

I check my hub temperatures whenever I stop for any reason, I don't look for a specific temperature. I look for a temperature differential. If one wheel is running hotter than the others, that could indicate a problem brewing. I carry all the necessary parts and tools to replace bearings on the road if necessary. My collection also includes a fully assembled hub complete with races, bearings, seals and grease.

jimmcg29 · 06-13-2022, 08:33 AM

I watched another video on how to remove the races and I definitely did not do that. My races should still be in there. Is that typically done on the annual repacking job? How often should that be done? So, it is pretty clear to me now that I should not have a race stuffed inside the bearing seal. I need to get that out before I go anywhere. Reseal that one wheel and be good to go.

Thanks for all the help.

timfromma · 06-13-2022, 09:34 AM

Races do not need to typically need to be replaced If all your bearings are good. A bearing failure may cause a race failure too but it depends on the severity of the failure. I will typically stick my finger inside the hub and feel the race surface. If it feels smooth with no pitting, they're good to go.

DouglasReid · 06-13-2022, 10:02 AM

Was it the race that was loose or the small unround spring?

If it was the spring, it goes on the outside of the rubber lip on the seal. It is used to hold tension of the rubber to its mating surface on the inner spline.

If it was the race that fell out that is NOT good. That race is a press or driven fit and DOES NOT turn in the hub normally. If it turns or fell out you need a new hub assembly and new bearings. If not a catastrophic failure with the entire wheel hub assembly coming off while you are driving is a certainty.

In addition, if the race is the issue be VERY glad you did not use the EZ Lube system. You would never have known about that impending failure until it was too late.

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